Gouffre du Friouato in Morocco.
11th September 2007.
It was our honeymoon but I suppose as we are both ChCC members it also counts as a caving trip!
We started off later than we wanted but the first train to Taza was about 11:30am. A wonderful journey of 2and a half hours through some beautiful scenery.
I was previously warned about the inevitable case of Delhi belly which I had got so I made sure I dosed myself up with plenty of Imodium. It was scorching when we reached Taza and we took a short stroll to the Taxi rank to get a lift to the cave. A bit of hard haggling and we managed to get the 25 minute journey (with the driver obviously waiting for us for 2 hours) for about 8. How many English taxis would accept that??
The drive was jaw dropping in more ways than one. The winding hairpin bends were hairaising while the views from the top of the mountains were incredible. We could see for tens of miles. We got to a flat plateau and then we spotted the sign for the cave. There was a road that went right up to the cave now. No walking in the heat for us!
At the top there was three small buildings, one of them was the souvenier shop / ticket office. Literally as we got out of the taxi a couple were walking back down the steps from the cave entrance to the shop. They had a liberal daubing of mud on their trousers and boots. They were English too. The guide was with them, a young lad named Abdullah. I think this was the fifth or sixth Abdullah that we had met so far. We asked if we could have a guided tour and he said we could go whenever we were ready as we were now the only people there! We both thought that the place would be heaving in mid afternoon. Lucky or what?
It cost 10 Dirham entrance each (about 60p). We took our head torches but the guide persueded us to hire some hand torches too. Good job we did as someone accidentally left my head torch turned on when it was packed so the batteries were as dead as a Dodo. A short climb up the steps led to a bunker type building and a few feet through this we came to the most gobsmacking sight I have ever seen in caving. The entrance shaft is huge. Sorry I mean HUUUUUUUUUGE!! You just cannot get a real sense of the scale of it just by pictures.
My apologies in advance for the quality of the photos. We had purchased a very good camera for the trip but we obviously did not want to take it caving so we took our crappy point and shoot.

There are 520 steps down to the bottom. All nice safe concrete ones with a handrail. Each step however is about 18 inches high. Great going down but bloody tiring coming up!
We got to the bottom of the shaft and the taxi driver was sitting there waiting for us. He had come down while we were getting our boots on etc.
We stood at the bottom and admired the view back up to the top.

Then Abdullah took us down through the part that was described as a 'squeeze' by one holidaymaker. It was a crawl sized hole. Then more concrete steps. I learnt on this trip never to wear walking boots caving again. No bloody grip at all! At the bottom of the steps we looked up for the roof of the chamber, and up and up! It was massive. Abdul had a more powerful torch than ours so he could show us the highlights and even his light did not show the roof.
We then went from one large chamber to the next. Each one decorated with enormous stalagmites and stalagtites. Sadly some have been broken by vandalism, some by what seems to be ferocious floods in the winter.
The curtains we came across were really impressive too. 3 or 4 inches thick and 6 or 7 feet long. Abdul played them like church bells.


One chamber had beautiful rose coloured crystals all around the walls to a height of around 7 feet. These are created just from the chamber flooding in the winter. Here is Meg and Abdul stood in front of them.

The guides put scaffold boards down for the tourists to cross the mainly dry gour pools and muddy dams. Abdul took great pleasure in leaping across these like a mountain goat and taking the piss when we gingerly inched across them. Bear in mind that on a couple of occasions there was a 20 foot drop on one side. We ventured to the end of the tourist section but could go no further due to not having enough equipment.
Bloody good fun though and worth all the effort to get there just to see that amazing entrance shaft!
I then posed for a photo with Abdul and our very patient taxi driver.

We then had the exhausting 520 steps back up. A quick drink and the purchase of some postcards then we were back on the downhill run to Taza. All the time we looked at the decrepit old Mercedes we were in, wondering if the brakes were good or not.
One mistake was not checking the train times. The next one back to Fes was 11:30 that night.

Very late return but it was great. Go there if you can.