Bolting ethics

Badlad

Administrator
Staff member
The photo shows some drilled holes in the top of the crag at Bridestones in West Yorkshire.  Someone has decided that drilling holes for some type of removable bolt is a good idea at this crag. This has been reported to the BMC and the person reporting said that they had approached the two guys doing the drilling who said they were practising SRT which suggested to them that they might be cavers.

The BMC conservation and access officer realises that the vast majority of cavers are probably very aware of the sensitivities of no bolting or drilling on gritstone crags, but would like us to spread the word around the caving community that drilling, placing bolts (even removable ones) really isn't appropriate on grit, or any established trad crags for that matter? Practising SRT should be fine in most places if using trad gear which can be easily removed after use without causing damage to the rock.


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Simon Wilson

New member
Badlad said:
The BMC conservation and access officer realises that the vast majority of cavers are probably very aware of the sensitivities of no bolting or drilling on gritstone crags, but would like us to spread the word around the caving community that drilling, placing bolts (even removable ones) really isn't appropriate on grit, or any established trad crags for that matter?

Same for caves - obviously.

AndyStuff said:
Bit off topic but it amazes me how many bolts there are out there.  I have a good friend who was in a cave on Leck doing some CIC training and as part of the training they were practicing putting in Spits and drilling.  The cave in question actually has more bolts than needs be anyway and I couldnt believe this.  I would have thought if they wanted to practice they could of used a bit of crappy rock in a discrete place or a quarry etc.  As a climber I cant understand why there are so many bolts especially when there are great natural anhors next to the bolts (threads, slings, wires etc).  I appreciayte there needs to be free hangs and deviations awy from rub points etc but I have seen plenty a bolt where there is right next to it a great wire placement.

CIC training? What's that all about? Surely it can't be true. Any CIC would be fully aware of the BCA anchor scheme.
 
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