Hiya everyone

I recently brought a olympus tough tg 5 to take some photos underground, but unfortunately I haven't been able to get very clear images I've tried using my lamp and another lamp and this weekend just gone I tried using some powerful torches that mark burkey had with him, unfortunately the picture still comes out a bit blurry.

Does anyone have any advice I'm looking at getting a tripod. But does anyone have any experience taking photos with this type of camera that could offer some advice please

Kayleigh

I use the TG-4. But for club trips on the move, I use a Firefly3 slave and cheap flashgun off ebay.

Hi, I've had some limited experience with the TG 5 and was trying to put something together to post on here; I'll see if I can pull my finger out and get on with it. Here's a snap of Bull Pot, Kingsdale / P-3 taken on the TG 5:

Fulk said:

Fulk said:

Hi, I've had some limited experience with the TG 5 and was trying to put something together to post on here; I'll see if I can pull my finger out and get on with it. Here are some snaps of Bull Pot, Kingsdale / P-3 and stals near the Colonnades taken on the TG 5:

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

No idea why this ended up as two . . . err, three separate posts

And another view of those stals:

Thanks for the quick replies these are a couple pics I have taken on a couple trips pervious to the weekend just gone

Dunno why it didn't do all on one post

And another one these are the best out of what I have taken. I was wondering if they are the best I'm gonna get or if anyome nos any tricks

Interesting thread as I have just purchased a Fujifilm XP120 dive camera.

I have started experimenting with it, with good results. I use powerful LED lighting and a small tripod just purchased. The tripod is small and light and actually fits in a pocket, but I am dubious about how good it will deal with mud. I am using the camera on ASA 100, flash turned off, and program mode. The tripod is a Velbon Summit Vtp-787 bought of eBay for ?8 as new.

Of course,  I am a mine explorer rather then caver so conditions a bit different. I have an Imolent DX 800 32,000 lumen torch and will try to make a diffuser for it. I have to be careful as I accidentally left the safety lock off and it came on and burned a hole through its case.

I have always used a Fujifilm S9600 on manual settings, on a tripod with prolonged exposure time. But now a bit dated and bulky to carry. The little waterproof XP is also ideal to slip into a pocket for walking, outdoors I always used the S9600 on Auto anyway.

I've got one, I'm very pleased with it but like Roy ~I am mostly found in mines (and not that often at the moment  )

Are you using the 'Live Composite' setting? If so I imagine it would be tricky without a tripod 

Looking at the last picture it looks like there is some camera movement. If you are using it handheld, then you are likely to always get this unless you have a really powerful light or are using slaved flashes.
If I want to take pictures 'on the go' then I'll generally use handheld starlight mode that takes a series of pictures and stacks them to get the right exposure. You will still get problems with movement but I try to minimise this by bracing it against a wall or rock. You will also need to tell your subject to be very still as the exposures take some time to complete and movement will be apparent. This can be useful though for photos of moving water if you want to blur it.
For sharper pictures, you are still going to either use flashes or a tripod. The little bendy tripods that are very cheap will fit in an oversuit pocket and are handy for those sort of impromptu shots but take a 'proper' tripod if you are planning on a trip for photo purposes.
Focusing can also be a bit of a problem. You need enough ambient light for the camera to autofocus on the subject and the small size of the viewscreen can make it appear in focus when it isn't. Shine a light on your subject and press the shutter button partially until you get the green square to indicate it's focused.

Ttxela2

I haven't used live composite yet as I figured that should only be used on a tripod, and I use a lynx x 2000 from Roy as the front light but I haven't got very steady hands so I hope that working with a tripod I should be able to get a better focus.

And Mudman thanks for your input I will have to try that the next time I'm under ground. I do more caves then mines.

I dont have trouble with focusing on the TG Series. If the camera is set on I Auto it will probably ramp up the ISO making the image look pale or grainy at levels beyond 1,000 ISO. Programme will fire the flash if it is set on Fill In . I never have a problem there or have ever used a tripod. Of course you will need a tripod for the Live Composite Mode. The usual thing with this sort of camera is to take multiple images. Sod's Law dictates that on out of ten will be good. In fact it is odd how they can vary over exactly the same set up. Lots can be done at the editing stage but you have to be careful not to " over cook " the image. The Photoshop Haze Removable tool is great but does not work every time.

This is a point and shoot from yesterday. The battered TG2 with scratched lens.

free upload pictures

A bit of headlamp back light helps. TG 2 on Programme Auto.

I have an idea that using the DX 80 torch I may be able to take pictures handheld without a tripod. I have ordered materials for an experimental diffuser and will report here and on AN. I am already making diffusers for the 3500 lumen Scorpion X_12, I think that there is a lot of mileage in diffusers on powerful torches and headlamps.

If the diffuser for the DX 800 works out well, I will make a batch up to sell for about ?8 a piece. This is the price of a 60mm Nitecore diffuser that can be bought off ebay or Amazon or whatever.

The old ruminator that looks good and that was just took with a back light and front light?

Yeah Roy yeah you will have to keep me informed about the light

I have a TG-4 and when setting up shots will regularly take a quick snap to check composition before a Live Composite shot with light painting. The difference in clarity when viewed side by side is very obvious, the LC mode is crystal clear. Obviously you need a still subject for LC mode but even using for a 1-2 second exposure works well with the right light.
I always use a tripod for my 'good shots, and just snap away with bright light on for handheld ones but always keep expectations low. Handheld with a Firefly2 triggered flash gives sharp shots on the fly. I was snapping away while walking round a mine yesterday and even while moving, the flash shots were mostly very sharp.

Have sorted you out some of my old vivitars with a couple of firefly 3's for you to have a play with Kay, see how you get on with those. Will bring to the club Thursday.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Cheers Roy I will have to have a go at that.

And thanks again chunky for all your help and will have to sort a trip so I can have a play with them.

You can hardly go wrong with the TG and a Firefly backlight. On Programme Auto the exposure will be correct for the subject distance and the back light will be variable depending on the distance it is away from the camera. ( as well as reflective qualities of the image area.) Any over exposure or underexposure of the backlight is acceptable depending on what " mood " effect you want. If you feel the backlight is too bright just change its position but remember to keep the slave out of direcy line to the camera. Easy peasy.

The Elephant's Trunk, Withyhill.