We're after a sewing machine for general sewing and some fixing of gear (realise we won't be fixing tackle sacks or oversuits without something very industrial) but we don't know much about them other than we'll need something heavy duty or semi industrial. So just wondering if anyone has any recommendations or useful features to look for?
Sewing machine for fixing gear?
- Thread starter JoW
- Start date
A singer 36k used with either diamond or ball point needles would be good for gortex and pvc oversuits.
Or 39k with same needles and roller foot would be good for webbing and tackle bag material.
Double chain stitch a Wilcox and Gibbs feltlock would also be useful.
For overclocking try union special 3950 (I think model num) either straight overlock or twin needle for extra chain stitch.
T
Or 39k with same needles and roller foot would be good for webbing and tackle bag material.
Double chain stitch a Wilcox and Gibbs feltlock would also be useful.
For overclocking try union special 3950 (I think model num) either straight overlock or twin needle for extra chain stitch.
T
I bought a Singer 185K last year. It was made in about 1960 in Glasgow of proper things like metal and wood so is pretty much caver proof. I got it to make an ultralight back pack; it sewed through two layers of ripstop nylon and a sheet of 5mm eva foam without a problem. Its also happy sewing webbing. The only limitation I found was that it does not do zig zag stitches which can be a pain if you want to sew stretch fabrics. You should be able to pick up a good, serviced (this is quite important) machine for less than it would cost to buy a modern plastic so called heavy duty machine.
pwhole
Well-known member
My mum's Singer is one of these, but I always assumed that it would be too lightweight for fabrics like we're discussing? It's a beautiful thing though, and in amazing condition:
https://webimg.secondhandapp.com/w-i-mgl/5e4a806c8675ba1f315753d6
https://webimg.secondhandapp.com/w-i-mgl/5e4a806c8675ba1f315753d6
Sam Richards
Member
Lovely bit of kit. I've used a hand-cranked version with AV suits (worked well with care) but wouldn't expect it to be up to dealing with Warmbac thickness or tackle sackspwhole said:
aardgoose
Member
They are nice, I have used my Grandmother's old Singer on oversuits, it isn't cabinet mounted so you have to hand crank it which takes a bit of coordination (I have the electric motor attachment, but being a 1929 model, I don't want to put it anywhere near the mains.
Incidentally you can date them with the serial number.
Incidentally you can date them with the serial number.
bograt
Active member
Made the original batch of tackle bags for T.S.G. using a Singer treadle machine back in the 1970's using nylon thread, the material gave way before the stitching after about 12 years. (the material was experimental stuff I scrounged from a place I was production manager at).
This was in the days before ready made tackle bags and I am convinced it gave Phil Brown the idea---
This was in the days before ready made tackle bags and I am convinced it gave Phil Brown the idea---
Any standard flat bed, straight stitch industrial machine would do, lots on ebay. A walking foot machine has advantages but more expensive and probably not really necessary. For amateur sewing I would recommend an electronic motor rather than the standard clutch motors which gives far more control, otherwise called a servo motor but there is a cost.I know a fair bit about sewing machines (unfortunately)so if you want advice feel free to message me, I repair sails and might have a spare machine to sell. Years ago our club hired a machine to make equipment for an expedition in the 1970's.
pwhole
Well-known member
I remember repairing some jeans easily as a teenager on that one of my mum's - she made us learn it early on, though I never had a problem with that. I always assumed most guys would like sewing machines, but I learnt not to mention it to my friends after a while! So good to see some enthusiasts here. I'll have to ask her the serial number, as I found that dating site. I'm not sure if she'd let me run a caving suit through it though, and i know without asking that a caving bag is just not happening. Apparently it is 'in the will' for me when the time comes, but I really don't have any room for that!
MJenkinson
Member
You've asked for a sewing machine recommendation but I thought I would throw this in - I have made harnesses and fixed suits and tackle bags quite easily with a speedy sticher.
https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/speedy-stitcher-sewing-awl-1704.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw2a32BRBXEiwAUcugiL9uCB1EwtFR7RHcuPrHmgVAuA90prhtUMyVRnTD3OENtTMu87XoShoCtP0QAvD_BwE
Will go through whatever you can physically make it go through! Ive sewn HD webbing to a farrworld diving harness belt for instance - thats pretty thick stuff. But its slow. However for small repair jobs it's great, throw some aquasure over the thread to protect it and it works pretty well. My tacklebag repairs have lasted a good few years.
Might (I don't know) be cheaper to buy one of those for the odd caving kit repair and then a cheaper less heavy duty sewing machine for normal stuff.
https://seamarknunn.com/acatalog/speedy-stitcher-sewing-awl-1704.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw2a32BRBXEiwAUcugiL9uCB1EwtFR7RHcuPrHmgVAuA90prhtUMyVRnTD3OENtTMu87XoShoCtP0QAvD_BwE
Will go through whatever you can physically make it go through! Ive sewn HD webbing to a farrworld diving harness belt for instance - thats pretty thick stuff. But its slow. However for small repair jobs it's great, throw some aquasure over the thread to protect it and it works pretty well. My tacklebag repairs have lasted a good few years.
Might (I don't know) be cheaper to buy one of those for the odd caving kit repair and then a cheaper less heavy duty sewing machine for normal stuff.
pwhole
Well-known member
I bought one of these recently and was very impressed - I repaired some kneepads that I would normally have had to throw away as it's always the straps that go rather than the pad itself. Also repaired a rucksack and can now fix the hole in my fishing-rod holdall! However, I suspect for very thick material it might be better to pre-punch the holes, as the needle on this doesn't seem as sharp as it could be. I bought a couple of the smaller size just to help in that respect.
MJenkinson
Member
pwhole said:
True - probably the better idea. I just clamped the waist belt in a vice and "gave it the beans"! You say those needles aren't sharp, but god help you if you have your thumb in the wrong place!
Pitlamp
Well-known member
If any of you have very tough sewing needs, I can recommend Nelson's in Settle. They do a good job and it's inexpensive. (I get my cave diving harnesses fixed there.) Any half decent sadler's shop would probably help as well. The golden rule is to make sure any items are squeeky clean because they don't appreciate grit cascading into the "works".
I gave Jo a machine this morning, which she's going to have a go with. It should sort her problem but keep this topic going just in case the one I gave her won't do.
I gave Jo a machine this morning, which she's going to have a go with. It should sort her problem but keep this topic going just in case the one I gave her won't do.
PeteHall
Moderator
Another vote for the Speedy Stitcher.
I've not used mine for an SRT harness as I'm slightly nervous of fixing or making something so critical, but I've sewed pretty much everything else. Oversuits, belts, tackle bags, knee pads, vinyl hood and seats for various old cars etc.
I've found the thing to be lethaly sharp and cut my hand pretty badly when I first had it. For thicker materials, I tend to push less hard and give it a gentle wiggle as I push and it seems to go through in a more controlled way.
The downsides are that it's not as speedy as the name suggests if you have a lot to do and winding on the bobbins by hand is really tedious.
I would consider it an essential in any cavers toolbox.
I've not used mine for an SRT harness as I'm slightly nervous of fixing or making something so critical, but I've sewed pretty much everything else. Oversuits, belts, tackle bags, knee pads, vinyl hood and seats for various old cars etc.
I've found the thing to be lethaly sharp and cut my hand pretty badly when I first had it. For thicker materials, I tend to push less hard and give it a gentle wiggle as I push and it seems to go through in a more controlled way.
The downsides are that it's not as speedy as the name suggests if you have a lot to do and winding on the bobbins by hand is really tedious.
I would consider it an essential in any cavers toolbox.
MarkS
Moderator
And another Speedy Stitcher vote!
One of the main straps on my rucksack tore off on quite a remote expedition 6 or 7 years ago. I did a quick bodge with a Speedy Stitcher, which survived the rest of the expedition, carrying some pretty significant weight, and then lasted another 5 years. I did a further repair on it because I thought I was tempting fate a bit too much leaving it as a bodge for so long, but that repair was also with the Speedy Stitcher. My chest harness was made with it too.
One of the main straps on my rucksack tore off on quite a remote expedition 6 or 7 years ago. I did a quick bodge with a Speedy Stitcher, which survived the rest of the expedition, carrying some pretty significant weight, and then lasted another 5 years. I did a further repair on it because I thought I was tempting fate a bit too much leaving it as a bodge for so long, but that repair was also with the Speedy Stitcher. My chest harness was made with it too.
pwhole
Well-known member
PeteHall said:
I bought some thinner thread that came on a card rather than a spool, and had to wind it onto a spare Speedy Stitcher bobbin - without twisting it. I had a think, and then hit using on a magnetic hex drive in my impact driver, with the bobbin stuck to it, with a bit of masking tape to stop it slipping, and the thread coiled loose in my washing-up bowl. I then ran the driver at a very slow speed and was able to thread the bobbin and lay it across evenly just using my hand - took about a minute and it's perfect.
