Ow-do all.

Just returned back to the cold UK after 7 years in Sunny Thailand.
Before I left all caving gear went into storage in a clean, dry and dark place.

I have a 85 m. 10.5mm Beal rope which has never been used or seen underground.

Question. would it be safe to use?


LL.

Get a bit drop tested to be sure, but it will probably be ok if it has been stored in optimum conditions.

Officially from the point of view of professional use, no. However, I agree with Les ... personally, though, I probably wouldn't. 80m of rope - even Beal - only costs about ?20 per year (over its 5-year life) and I'd rather spend a few extra quid and know I'm not going to die if my foot slips while rigging a traverse.

Not caving rope related but...

In a report on dynamic climbing ropes Pitt Schubert, President of the UIAA safety commission found the following....

1. Ropes cannot break in the tie in knot, or at the running belay.

2. Use of twin ropes has cut down on breakage's.

3. There have been no known rope failures in sport climbing

4. Petrol, Diesel, WD40, Coke and sea water do not damage ropes.

5. Autan (insect repellent), although damaging to plastic, was not found to damage ropes...in fact strength was slightly increased.

6. UV radiation does not damage ropes. Nylon is UV stabilised and only the colour will be lost.

7. Standing on a rope loaded over a right-angled metal edge with three times body weight did not reduce a ropes strength.

8. Standing on a rope in the snow with crampons did no damage. Neither did standing on it on rock with a 75kg body weight. In a further test crampon points were forced right through the rope with no strength reduction/damage occurring!

9. The suggested life span of 10 years which has been given for ropes is to help the user determine life span . However, after contact with ICI it was found that although after 10 years there was a measurable degradation in nylon (not just in ropes, but all nylon textiles) ageing itself would not cause a rope to break, unless it was loaded over a sharp edge.

10. Top roping damaged ropes, but the damage was visible and could be felt. The same applied to damage from stonefall.

However, lest we become complacent...

1. Any rope can break when loaded over a sharp edge. It is not possible to produce a rope that is strong enough not to break when loaded over a sharp edge, however, the maximum chance for survival is with a new rope.

2. Car battery acid damages ropes and cannot be visibly detected.

3. Ropes soaked overnight in urine (!) had their strength reduced by 30%. However, this was only relevant when the rope was loadedover a sharp edge.

4. The strength of frozen and wet ropes was reduced but again, unless the rope is loaded over a sharp edge, it would not matter.

The 10 years life span mentioned is for an unused rope. As soon as that rope is used the clock starts ticking. Five years is given as the working lifespan unless the 10 year time period comes sooner... so in effect you have three years life left (the rope that is - taking advice off the internet could possibly reduce yours considerably  !!).

Les W said:

Get a bit drop tested to be sure, but it will probably be ok if it has been stored in optimum conditions.

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Even if BCA drop tested it they would offer you no advice on whether to use it or not.  Not very helpful but the legal position of giving such advice is simple - don't.  This is because it means BCA becomes liable if the advice is duff.  And since you have been out of the country for 8 years, I will repeat the message that the old maxim of if it survives 2 drops then it is OK for further use is not to be relied on.  See here http://british-caving.org.uk/?page=85 for more details.

The drop testing service form is available at http://british-caving.org.uk/rope/061112_R_Test_Form.pdf  no charge but it would be nice if you are a member. 
I should be able to turn round a few samples within a week or so during the next month, assuming the weather is being half way reasonable.

You might also look up what Beal claim as the life for use of this rope. Also beware, although you have had it for 8 years, it might have been on the shop's shelf for several more years.  If you cut down a length of the rope (probably less than 50 cm) there should be a tape inside it with data written on it including the date of manufacture.  Don't confuse this with the standard number 1891 which should also be on the tape.

Bob Mehew said:

... the date of manufacture.  Don't confuse this with the standard number 1891 which should also be on the tape.

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