Does anyonyone know who......

Alkapton

Member
Can anyone put me in toutch with the person or persons who have bolted and put hangers into a small quarry face in Trewpentis nature reserve near Pontypool?

Whoever did it has done the most excellent job.

Unfortunatally they also freaked the landowner out and all climbing is prohibited.  I have spoken to the landowner and I think it is not impossible to get permissive access.

I don't want to be seen as stealing someone elses toys, so if I can be put in toutch with the climbers resposible I'm sure we can work something out that will make everyone happy.
 

cap n chris

Well-known member
It might be a plan to advise your friendly landowner to keep his "climbing prohibited" signs in place and to not grant permission for climbing....

(btw Paul Bowen looks to be the man you might try and chat with)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8695

... since it's pretty much standard practice by landowners to deny access/refuse to grant permission as it provides a degree of indemnification, IIRC. There are caving examples, too (certainly on Mendip I can think of examples).

Then, in practice, the landowner simply turns a blind eye to whatever is going on and thus is more likely to be out of the firing line in the event of the fan and the ordure meeting at high velocity. That way the climbers are happy `cos they can climb, and the landowner is happy because climbing is prohibited and he is one step further away from getting it in the neck if someone gets hurt. Everyone happy. Winner!

See Tomlinson v Congleton Borough Council for further details.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomlinson_v_Congleton_Borough_Council

N.B. Generally you'll probably find a climbing forum is a better place to ask a climbing-related question, rather than a caving one. Just a thought. Remember: Google is your friend.  :)

Comprehensive details on the Quarry and the funding of the bolting project there, here:

http://www.southwalesboltfund.co.uk/media

... then select relevant folder (4th one down).
 

Alkapton

Member
Umm...  From another source the climber responsible is identified,  my guess is that things will work out nicely for everyone, I jumped in uninvited and got very good response from landowner, but now I need to get contact with climber so nobody gets upset.  I think this will work out nicely in time.
 

Joel Corrigan

New member
I've spoken to the climber who did all the work on the crag & his reply is pretty clear.  Suggest all ideas of using this as a venue/assisting with landowner access be reconsidered. In my role as training officer for the South & Mid Wales Cave Rescue Team I will not touch it with a barge pole as (a), there's no need (have got an arrangement with the WICC anyway); (b), apart from being a pretty location it's not actually very good from an SRT/rescue perspective; (c), we don't want any friction between climbers & cavers; (d), I've climbed there a few times myself and access really doesn't currently seem to be a problem.  Suggest that the guy is perfectly capable of liaising with landowners himself without cavers getting involved!

"Hi,
Sorry about the delay in getting back, i've been in france since july 10th.
I cleaned and bolted tirpentwys in early 2008 since then it has become one of the most popular sport climbing sights in south wales.
I did this out of my own pocket and did it to a standard which i consider acceptable for a modern sport crag, i don't accept help from the south wales bolt fund (too many hoops)
Cavers practising rope technique on a climbing crag is totally unacceptable there are plenty of scrappy rocky outcrops around south wales, the rock which is sandstone is delicate holds
can easily be broken. This is my view and probably the view of the majority of people who use the crag.
As for the permission to climb, this is the case with every quarry/crag no landowner wants to be liable and therefore takes steps to show this, as to wether they take any further action is up to them most haven't the time or the inclination.

If you are a climber and haven't been to tirpentwys then i suggest you visit, it's a lovely crag with good aspect and range of climbs.
I'll pass a copy of this email and your request to the SWMC and see what they have to say.

hope this helps with your questions,

thanks,
Paul"
 
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