Caving on string

Mentioning for completeness that rope can also be too thick.

In the summer, a member of the party I was in declined the last pitch of James Hall O.E. because she'd not liked my (very clean and fairly new condition) 10.5mm rope. It was pretty sturdy stuff with a very robust sheath so handled more like an 11mm (Southern ropes LSK 10.5 semi static). She had a new style stop (8.5-11) and the rest of us were still using old style ones (9-12) and she couldn't stand fighting the rope.

You can have too much of a good thing.. as well as not enough! 🤣

Certainly a 50 kg caver is likely to need rather less braking than a 100 kg caver (example weights only!); the lighter you are the more hard work fat ropes are! (and the less you understand how a 'fast' rope is a problem, rather than pleasant). I suspect the average 'new' Stop is rather less worn than the average 'old' Stop as well.
 
It has long been my opinion that clubs are wise(r) to purchase 10mm-10,5mm ropes on the grounds that cavers don't replace their gear as often as work at height operators do (separate topic?) and therefore descending a 10,5mm rope is easy peasy by comparison to using a new descender which grips like shit on anything which is no longer shiney and new. Anyone with a Petzl Stop of (dubious) vintage using it on, say, 8mm, will probably need fresh underwear.
 
Just saying....
There are other Type A ropes less than 10mm
When I selected the blue version and this black one I went for a compromise - not too thin yet fully rated

https://ukcaving.com/board/index.ph...ew-blue-–-spanset-launches-ebay-outlet.33752/

Gear is always personal preference though and most people get used to something and stick with it.
As long as you know what it is and understand its limitations you are fine - Knowledge is power! 😀
 
Mentioning for completeness that rope can also be too thick.

In the summer, a member of the party I was in declined the last pitch of James Hall O.E. because she'd not liked my (very clean and fairly new condition) 10.5mm rope. It was pretty sturdy stuff with a very robust sheath so handled more like an 11mm (Southern ropes LSK 10.5 semi static). She had a new style stop (8.5-11) and the rest of us were still using old style ones (9-12) and she couldn't stand fighting the rope.

You can have too much of a good thing.. as well as not enough! 🤣
Absolutely!

I had to bail on descending the 3rd pitch of nearby multi-drop cave, for just this reason. I had used a lightly-used "new" Stop in the cave. Said device rapells beautifully on my 10mm super-static polyester rope at home. After being dragged a short distance through the cave, it barely fed through at all...

On the 3rd pitch, I think it was someone else's 10-11mm nylon rope, said Stop didn't feed at all. I then C-rigged it, and was having to shove rope through it, to move at all. I promptly changed-over, and climbed off the pitch.

This experience quickly prompted me to start shopping for 8-9mm ropes. That cave is 5-6 drops to the bottom. The idea of carrying big heavy ropes through tight, rocky, wet crawlways doesn't excite me at all...
 
Mentioning for completeness that rope can also be too thick.

In the summer, a member of the party I was in declined the last pitch of James Hall O.E. because she'd not liked my (very clean and fairly new condition) 10.5mm rope. It was pretty sturdy stuff with a very robust sheath so handled more like an 11mm (Southern ropes LSK 10.5 semi static). She had a new style stop (8.5-11) and the rest of us were still using old style ones (9-12) and she couldn't stand fighting the rope.

You can have too much of a good thing.. as well as not enough! 🤣

When using thick ropes you can consider to use a Simple with the rope in "C" instead of using a Stop. The thikness of the rope will give enough friction so you can still use the simple. That is one of the reasons why I still prefer my simple above my Stop when doing a lot of pitches where there is a mixture of rope conditions (old vs new vs dry vs wet vs clean vs dirty) then you can chose your webbing in the Simple depending on the rope condition.
 

I see that the CNCC trainers had a discussion of tips and techniques for how to safely ascend and descend on Petzl 7mm Caving Line, I wonder if any of the tips can be shared here if they've not already been discussed in the thread!
 
Hi Samouse1

I don’t have a vast amount to add to the really well-thought-out posts above, but I’ll try to contribute a bit more to this really interesting area of caving.

After some personal practice/testing, and a session during our recent CNCC trainers’ meeting, here are some thoughts and findings (I’ll try to avoid repeating points already made above).

This rope requires a lot of practice in a safe environment before taking it underground. You really need to find a system that works with your equipment (and body weight).

It will quickly reveal any wear and tear in your kit.
Dull teeth in jammers and worn descender spools — sometimes viewed as a “status symbol” — will cause serious problems with such thin rope.

I tried descending using the Petzl-recommended methods but didn’t feel fully in control (these were only 3 m abseils!).
One thing I noticed was that this rope appears to cause significantly more wear on components where it runs over fixed points.
This was evident on the side plate of the Stop and the friction spur on the frenio when using it as per Petzl’s recommendation.
These were only short abseils on a clean rope — a long pitch with a gritty rope would be concerning.

After trying various methods of threading and adding friction with the Stop, Simple, Freino, Raumer Handy, and Edelrid Bullet, I decided that my current preferred setup (subject to further real-world testing) is to:
Use a Simple threaded normally, with a “C” rig added then passing the rope through my friction crab attached to my central connector with an Italian Hitch.

This gives enough friction for my weight (100 kg with kit) and keeps the rope off the side plates. The twisting effect of the Italian hitch was fine on such a short pitch, though a longer pitch may prove more problematic.

I was also comfortable descending using a “Super Munter” through my cowstail carabiner. This had the added benefit that, as long as you only looked straight ahead, you could see your cowstail rope and kid yourself that you were on a thick rope!

Ascending was actually very pleasant due to the static nature of the rope — it felt quite reassuring. I suspect that if it were “bouncy,” that feeling would soon disappear.

Areas of Use​

I am in full agreement with Samouse1 regarding where this rope could prove useful:

  1. A short line for setting up hauls/breaking into a loaded line.
    Five metres is barely noticeable weight-wise and can be used with a few bits of rescue kit to set up a haul. (Also useful to carry a longer length as a spare rope in certain situations.)
  2. Pull-through cord.
    Used on the pull-down side to save weight. Fairly self-explanatory, and it can also serve as an emergency rope to get you out of a pinch.
  3. For descent and ascent.
    (By certain experienced cavers on appropriate trips.)
To reiterate, this requires lots of prior practice and testing before using it underground. However, in the right situation, and with suitably experienced cavers, this is potentially a very useful bit of kit.

Get yourself a length and have a play — in a safe environment.



Petzl recommended method with a Stop, I personally didn’t get enough friction and felt uncomfortable with the rubbing on the side plate.
IMG_3898.jpeg



Recommended system with a Simple, I found this better regarding friction but still had the side plate rubbing.

IMG_3897.jpeg



My preferred way, showing the extra c rig.
IMG_3896.jpeg


The extra Italian hitch felt comfortable. Twisting of the rope needs management.
IMG_3895.jpeg


Used in a Rig

IMG_3774.jpeg


DISCLAIMER. None of the above is given as official advice, just my personal experience.
 
On two occasions with a normal rope and an old style Stop + Freino, no idea what stupidity I must've been doing, but while focussing on some loose rock or slippery footing or something and somehow the rope got unclipped from the Freino and I dropped 6 inches which I wasn't expecting. For a split second I though "good gracious me" (or something like that).

Clearly you'd need a combination of inattention, incompetence and bad luck to recreate it. I can't even work out how it could be possible - but it is. My thinking is that unplanned Freino unclip is an irritation with a standard rope but could be a far more serious event with a Stop threaded with "string"!
 
On two occasions with a normal rope and an old style Stop + Freino, no idea what stupidity I must've been doing, but while focussing on some loose rock or slippery footing or something and somehow the rope got unclipped from the Freino and I dropped 6 inches which I wasn't expecting. For a split second I though "good gracious me" (or something like that).

Clearly you'd need a combination of inattention, incompetence and bad luck to recreate it. I can't even work out how it could be possible - but it is. My thinking is that unplanned Freino unclip is an irritation with a standard rope but could be a far more serious event with a Stop threaded with "string"!
Wonder if you managed to clip the tail back through the freino- essentially creating a bight through the freino which just popped through 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
Wonder if you managed to clip the tail back through the freino- essentially creating a bight through the freino which just popped through 🤷🏼‍♂️
No it was clipped the right way round, creative idiocy of some other variety perhaps.
But I was trying to highlight the consequences of it happened to someone using "string" and a stop instead of rope, rather dissecting my foolishness which has unlimited possibility. It could result in an uncontrollable descent 😱
 
I managed to go on a caving weekend last weekend (fortunately only 15 minutes from home) where I failed to get on a rope underground at all on either day (on the first day due to my own incompetence going down Lost Marbles Pot instead of the Marble Cake Hole in Marble Steps, the second day a blocked entrance so not my fault). But I did briefly rig up my new (unsoaked/unwashed) 7 mm in the YSS wall and try descending.

Descending on a (moderately-worn) Petzl Rig in normal fashion using just a (fairly worn) Freino was a manageable experience using both hands on the rope at the maximum braking angle (and no use of the handle). Just about OK but might be moderately terrifying on a long drop... (possibly could be mitigated by adding a pseudo-half lock or something). I should have probably have tried it on my 'new' Rig for comparison.

However, simply putting an extra wrap around the cam of the Rig restores basically normal function except that you can't pull rope through it (which does remove one of the normal advantages of the Rig). It auto-locks off perfectly, use of the handle is much as normal, descent is very casual. I weigh ~70 kg; your mileage may vary.

I'm sure there's some reason why this will definitely result in horrible death, but I haven't worked out what yet (there is just about enough room in the device for the two strands to sit comfortably and they don't rub on any horrible edges or anything as far as I can see). Suffice to say Petzl do not approve :P
 
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