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Consigned to history...

tim.rose2

Well-known member
Inspired by OR's recent thread 'blast from the past' I thought I'd post some of Portland's intriguing cave history. Unlike OR, I don't have 1000's of old photo's to hand and I'm definitely not old enough to have been present! What I can share is some snippets from documents I've recently discovered which may interest a few. I should add, credit must be given to my long suffering, non-caver mother - she's the one with the interest local history who's got access to all sorts of things. I just hand over a nugget of info and let her do all the hard work! For example, "Mum, I think there was an article in the Dorset Echo about Sandy Hole, 1972 ish". A couple of days later it appears in my inbox, with a host of other related stuff.

So where do we start... Probably with the Victorians. Many people consider the Leicester University Geologists the first explorers of Portland's caves in the 1960's, however that wasn't the case at all. Unfortunately those before LUSS left little clues as to the sites they explored and in the most, were more interested in disputing the origins of the bones within the caves rather than the caves themselves (more on that sometime in the future). First, the important matter of 'show caves'...

The Trevor Ford (Leicester) paper from 1964 quoted a report from 1861 which detailed a grotto 30 foot by 12 foot in Freemans Quarry near the church with hundreds of stalactites and ornamental columns. Naturally I wanted to know more...

Firstly, 'the church' most certain refers to St Georges at Reforne, so we have a rough location. The first thing to do was track down the original text:

On the Geology of the Isle of Portland By W. Gray, Esq. 1861.png

Further research turned up the following published in the Western Gazette in Nov 1859, presumably the same site. I'll take that as evidence of a Victorian show cave!
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And then my Mother found this from 10 years later, Sept 1869.
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A cave 600 yards long compared to what I'm assuming is Gough's Cave, on Portland. Well that's certainly news to me! So could it be possible there is a cave of reasonable proportions on the island, or is this some Victorian journalistic fiction? The only waterworn passage of decent proportions ever properly document was Sawmill Cave, this was around 150 m in length and North East of the church. Both ends intersected by quarrying, but unfortunately everything is now quarried away. Perhaps the Victorian's knew of it's downstream continuation? Although a lot of the area near the church has been quarried away, at 600 yards long, I'd have though a large part would have been under Weston or Easton, settlements below which the ground has never been disturbed. So perhaps there is a Portland Master Cave to be re-found?

Two questions remain, where exactly was Freemans Quarry and Hitchcraft Quarry? These are not names used today. My mother is still looking into that one!

Well that's the end of the first post. Does this sort of stuff interest anyone else? If so I'll keep posting when I've got nothing better to do, otherwise happy to write this thread off.
 
1852 the Freemans (William and John) had quarries at gossland (as did Bartholomew Comben) - doesn't help with actual location though!:

They provided stone for the Admiralty Pier at Dover:
They had lots of adverts in late 1800s, particularly Building News published in London (available on BNA)

Hitchcraft is mentioned in (it also seems to be a person's name, but doesn't appear in above list):
That article is the only mention of hitchcraft quarry in entire British Newspaper Archive
 
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Searching Portland stalactite cave on BNA brings up:
Long churn / Allen Pot in Penzance gazette 1847 &
"The stalactite caverns" London morning post 1845
Presumably giants cave in Avon gorge during 1868 various papers
Above 1869 article in Western gazette (Yeovil)
1859 article also in Dorset county chronicle
Presumably another version of same two weeks later in Dorset County Express and Agricultural Gazette
Lots of adverts in second half 1800s for Cox's and Gough's new caves
Plus lots overseas e.g. mammoth
 
Freeman's incline in on the verne:
NW of island:

Ford's article says Freeman's was near bowers quarry, NW Portland, referenced here:
 
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There must still be caves to find under Portland. Plymouth has similar reports of caves now concealed under the city streets.
 
More recent is this post on Portland caving group FB page:
"Hi All. I came across a reference to your site and thought I'd have a look and join. It's been many years since I last went caving but it's interesting to see what's happening with the Portland caves these days.

My one claim to fame, was that I was the first person to enter Ariel Cave back in May 1975 and was also involved with the rescue from Ariel of Dave Hunter in June that same year." Ian wolff (see Andrew MacTavish's article)
 
compared to what I'm assuming is Gough's Cave
I must added a correction... The comparison would most likely have been to Cox's cave which was opened in 1839. Gough's Cave was not opened until 1892. Many thanks to the person who emailed me with these details.
 
Something a little newer this evening - A Dorset Evening Echo article from June 1963 'The first men to explore the caves of Portland'.
This one clearly contains some journalistic elaboration! Obviously based on the work of LUSS in the early 60's. The photo in the top right is Sawmill Cave, the other's being of Thrutch Cave (also known as Fossil Cave or Rubbish Dump). Can anyone identify the other cavers?

Another of my Mother's finds - I asked her to look for something else and her reply was 'I found this too, it might be of interest'...
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Explorers cont - Echo snip.png


There are a few issues...

Sawmill Cave - definitely not a 2 hour trip. This cave was briefly unearthed in 2013 before being quarried away. Sas and I did the cave in both directions, taking film and photos in about 45 mins. What I can imagine is the surveying trip, which was in June 1963 taking a couple of hours. The survey and description is available in The Caves of the Isle of Portland by T. Ford and M. Hooper, Transactions of the CRG December 1964, available for Download here: https://www.mcra.org.uk/wiki/doku.php?id=articles:start. It was a very easy cave, approx. 150 m in length, mostly walking. It was also explored at least as early as 1928 as demonstrated by the inscription in the cave which has been well documented.
Sawmill, Portland 118.jpg


Thrutch Cave - this is a crawl to the end and back. As the second half is more or less flat out it does take about 40 mins. The Weymouth Outdoor Education Centre / Portland Youth Centre instructors used to routinely stretch a trip with a group of 8 to 10 school kids (I was one on many occasions) to around 1 hr 15! So 6 hours seems a bit OTT. Similar to Sawmill a survey was produced in June 1963, so I would assume the survey trip might have been a few hours. I also have an account from a chap who was a local boy in the early 1960's who's stated him and his mates used to play in the cave! Whether this was before it was 'discovered' by LUSS is unclear, but clearly the locals knew of and similarly explored this site around the same time.

The article also mentions chimney climbs in Thrutch Cave - there are no explorable rifts or height changes - it's basically a horizontal water worn tunnel. It refers to Australia Passage; so I suspect the author has mixed in the description of Australia Rift to add excitement. Australia Rift is also described in the T. Ford paper. This is another cave that no longer exists, but it was at The Cutting's, approx. 1km away!

The resolution didn't seem very good for the full article when I pasted it into the forum, so here's just the text (perhaps easier to read)...
1787865313535.png


If anyone is still struggling to read it, let me know and I'll paste the columns separately. It seems the forum is reducing the resolution when I paste in pictures.

The article also mentions Devils Hole - this vanished around 2003 to 2005. Annoyingly I never got to visit this. I remember one evening in the late 90's stood in a boiler suit, equipped with helmet/lamp with my father and a couple of Friends about to enter and then for some reason which I cannot remember aborted the trip. We were also going to look at Devils Slit that evening. We never returned. When I eventually tried to after finishing Uni, the quarry had been back filled, the cave gone and the area unrecognisable.
 
A quick one for tonight. This is another Dorset evening echo article from June 1982.


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It's just a shame they spelt the name of the cave wrong! Ariel Cave was discovered by Aerial photography, in a storm (a 'Tempest') by an English teacher and his army cadet force from Hardyes school and so the Shakespearian spelling 'Ariel' was used by it's first explorers. Unfortunately the two spelling have become interchangeable as many since have assumed 'Ariel' was a mis-spelling.
 
And here is the photo which lead to the discovery of Ariel Cave as provide to me by Andy MacTavish. The entrance is the obvious 'hole' circled in red. What nobody noticed was Queen's Entrance at the end of the blue arrow, which was discovered from inside the cave.

1788297595678.png
 
Cave rescues...
Many would argue there's only ever been one on Portland. The rescue of a Naval mechanic, David Hunter, from Nutcracker Rift in Ariel Cave in June 1975 who suffered a crushed/broken leg having dislodged a boulder onto it. This is definitely the most serious, famous and well documented.
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1788590789858.png


Mum recently found this report in the Dorset Evening Echo, August 11, 1967. I'd never seen the article, or even heard of this one before. It's a shame the picture is bad. There's no (currently) known caves in this area or anything previously documented so I cannot suggest exactly where this happened. It's certainly possible there's a cave in old working at Weston Street, very likely lost to backfilling. It's also possible this was a man made 'cave', essentially a passage created along 'gaps in stacked boulders'. There are several examples of this elsewhere on the island which can reach 10+m in length and would definitely provide opportunity the the rescue described.
1788591224558.png
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There's been several other 'rescues' which have been sorted out 'locally' over the years not involving the authorities/cave rescue. There's probably others, but those I'm aware of include:
  • Lost children in Flagpole (two had entered with a single torch and the battery ran out - alarm raised by parent to a local caver who went and retrieved them).
  • Lost/overdue cavers in Sandy Hole (dropped down Sharbutt's and failed to find the way out of Sandy).
  • Stuck cavers requiring tools/additional people to extract.
 
Dorset Evening Echo, 4th July 1963; A follow up to 'the first men to explore the caves of Portland' which I posted above...
The caves of Portland - follow up letter.jpg

It does of course pose the question... Are those who first record/document the caves the 'first explorers'. This is a common theme on Portland, even in more recent years there's been occurrences of infrequent cavers/those visiting from elsewhere moving a few stones and thinking they've found something, when in fact the discovery had been made previously, just undocumented. What's interesting, is that the location given is Fancy's Beach. Sawmill Cave, which was documented by LUSS and is presumably being referred to would have been around 300 - 400 m NE. There used to be known caves at Fancy's Beach, Devil's Hole which was reported as 'being known for generations' (now loss) being the largest. Perhaps Samuel Paull was the person to first find and enter Devils Hole? Or perhaps there used to be something else in this area? Perhaps a part of the 600 yard long mystery cave reported in my first post!

Clearly 'formation harvesting' was acceptable! I wonder where in London they ended up?

Smuggler's Cave - this was the name I'd always known Red Door Tunnel as (which is on the East side of the island). The myth being that the tunnel was used to smuggle goods from wrecked ships to the cliff top via the well shaft. It's well documented that the tunnel/shaft was created to facilitate a pumping station to take water to the dockyard from the spring at it's base, however perhaps there's truth to the smuggling tales as well?
 
On the note of 'formation harvesting'. To this day nobody (well other than those who did it) knows what happened to the biggest known stal on Portland, the Sword of Damocles which was removed from Windy Dig. This was published in the Dorset Echo, 03/05/1972;

Windy - Formation stolen - Echo snip.jpg
 
Bone Fissures... I promised this in the first post. There's quite a bit of material to post, so this may take several days to get through. I should add, all the digging in the rifts I've done over the last few years, I've never found a single bone, nor have I ever seen one balanced on a ledge in a section of rift we've been first to enter! Let's start with an extract from article in the Times about the Verne Citadel and surrounding 'ditch', 01/01/1963:

Times Article 01-01-1863.jpg


This was followed by by an article in The Geologist 23/01/1863:

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Large parts of the Verne Ditch are completely off-limits due to it being part what is now the Verne Prison. There is a section at the Eastern end, approx. 120 m in length that is accessible and contains Admiralty Rift and Magazine Rift. These are both around 30 m long and worth seeking out. It sounds like the Victorians may have found others further along.

The Verne Ditch. The section is red is where Admiralty and Magazine Rifts are found. The blue section is inaccesible.
1788729657776.png
 
Many smugglers caves are just tall tales to distract the customs from where the stuff was really stored. They were used to keep legitimate goods that needed to be kept cool
 
The following is from the Handbook to the Geology of Weymouth and the Island of Portland, Robert Damon, 1860. If anyone wants some bedtime reading the whole book is available here:

Clearly people were poking around in the rift caves found in quarries, but no clues for the exact locations. The Verne Ditch works began around 1858, however there were other plenty of other quarries around the Northern part of the island during the 1800's.

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