Derbyshire Tubes

Pitlamp

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Not today but yesterday; made five Derbyshire tubes, as my stock has all but run out due to kind weather recently.
(I reckon I am to Derbyshire tubes what braveduck is to digging buckets! ;) )
 
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What is a Derbyshire Tube please?
A device made from a short length of scaffold tube, for laying dive line in a small/ constricted sump with no visibility.

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What is a Derbyshire Tube please?
Pete's reply is quite correct but a bit more detail might be helpful. It's a line laying device based on a scaffold tube which was invented originally for difficult underwater terrain. The idea is you pull out loops of line from under the inner tube loops as you progress. But if things get nasty and you want to run away you just drop the Derbyshire tube and retreat. There's no faffing around trying to find a belay, attach the line, cut the reel off and secure the remaining line on the reel, all in fast deteriorating vis. The scaff tube is negatively buoyant so it just sits of the floor and when you go back you return to a safe situation (no loose line floating around). Once all line is laid the empty scaff tube can be rammed into a sediment bank to further secure it (in the manner of the cave diver's plastic pipe "silt screw") or simply placed on the floor of the sump instead of using up a lead drop weight. It can also be used as a "squeeze gauge" in a wide, low bedding to identify the highest part of the passage and follow the best traectory.

The photo below shows how I make them. Points to note are:

1 The line is marked every metre, which makes surveying awkward passages easier / more accurate.
2. The overall length of line on it is labelled at the starting loop. This allows you to pick up the correct one from a box of several previously made Derbyshire tubes before diving and also helps identiify the correct loop to pull out first before looping the device onto the end of the previously laid line.
3. The extra loop of white string to the right in the picture below is so that the device can be secured to the existing line partway along if you want to leave it in the sump and fastened with a loose cable tie (which is then cut on a subsequent dive when the Derbyshire tube is collected).
4. The extra inner tube stretched over each end for double scurity; the last thing you want to happen is a failure of a single snoopy allowing line to be spilled. This also helps keep the loops of line stacked more tidily.
5. What isn't clear from the photo is the advisability of transporting the Derbyshire tube into the sump in an SRT bag, to avoid the possibility of accidentally pulling coils out before intended deployment (i.e. if it gets snagged en route in).

They're not just for low visibillity situations. The one in this picture was laid in 20 m vis (not a misprint!) in Austwick Beck Head on Wednesday just gone. The reason for choosing this, rather than a reel, was because the area of the cave in question was right at the limit of the available cylinders. The Derbyshire tube could be emptied fast, surveyed back quickly and then head straight for home.

There you go braveduck; I bet you're really glad you asked!

By the way, the "silt screw" referred to above was a Scoff invention. The Derbyshire tube was invented by yours truly.

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Might also be worth mentioning that the inner tube loops are better placed on the scaff before the line is tied to it. That way the end line loop is free and unobstructed when you want to fasten on the next Derbyshire tube or reel to lay line beyond. The picture below shows how I start them off (and how the extra bit of string is connected, in case it's needed to attach the Derbyshire tube to an existing line in the sump until a future dive.)

These things were first used in the Peak District, maybe 20 years ago, hence their name. There was a detailed description of how to make them published in a CDG Newsletter at the time but they've been refined since then, hence the detail given here.

I realise this is only of real interest to a tiny proportion of forum users so I'll shut up now. ;)

D_tube_23_m_start.jpeg
 
Might also be worth mentioning that the inner tube loops are better placed on the scaff before the line is tied to it. That way the end line loop is free and unobstructed when you want to fasten on the next Derbyshire tube or reel to lay line beyond. The picture below shows how I start them off (and how the extra bit of string is connected, in case it's needed to attach the Derbyshire tube to an existing line in the sump until a future dive.)

These things were first used in the Peak District, maybe 20 years ago, hence their name. There was a detailed description of how to make them published in a CDG Newsletter at the time but they've been refined since then, hence the detail given here.

I realise this is only of real interest to a tiny proportion of forum users so I'll shut up now. ;)

View attachment 22135
I disagree with your last comment. I'm definitely not a diver, but anything related to an irrepressible spirit of exploration is fascinating. At least, it is to me!
 
Might also be worth mentioning that the inner tube loops are better placed on the scaff before the line is tied to it. That way the end line loop is free and unobstructed when you want to fasten on the next Derbyshire tube or reel to lay line beyond. The picture below shows how I start them off (and how the extra bit of string is connected, in case it's needed to attach the Derbyshire tube to an existing line in the sump until a future dive.)

These things were first used in the Peak District, maybe 20 years ago, hence their name. There was a detailed description of how to make them published in a CDG Newsletter at the time but they've been refined since then, hence the detail given here.

I realise this is only of real interest to a tiny proportion of forum users so I'll shut up now. ;)

View attachment 22135
Fantastic info John! I'd read about them, but the extra details here are very useful. Question: If you decide to remove the line for some reason, do you just wrap it around the scaffold bar, or loop it up in the same way you had before deploying? Feels the latter might be slower, but also keeps the line tidier?
 
Re-stacking is out of the question underwater, with cold, neoprene clad, sausage fingers. I normally wrap it back on round and round but with two or three wraps from one side, then two or three on the other, then back to first side, etc. This prevents hawser laid line (typically 5 mm polypropylene) from kinking when laid out subsequently. A snoopy will then secure it.
If the D/T is brought out of the sump again though, it’s worth re-stacking properly.
If you want to lay the line out again on the same dive, just unroll it (i.e. resist the temptation to pull it off just one end as you progress, again to prevent linked line).
Does that help?
 
"linked" line (penultimate sentance) in my post above should of course say "kinked" line.

I was typing on my phone in bright sunlight; never good.
 
Might also be worth mentioning that the inner tube loops are better placed on the scaff before the line is tied to it. That way the end line loop is free and unobstructed when you want to fasten on the next Derbyshire tube or reel to lay line beyond. The picture below shows how I start them off (and how the extra bit of string is connected, in case it's needed to attach the Derbyshire tube to an existing line in the sump until a future dive.)

These things were first used in the Peak District, maybe 20 years ago, hence their name. There was a detailed description of how to make them published in a CDG Newsletter at the time but they've been refined since then, hence the detail given here.

I realise this is only of real interest to a tiny proportion of forum users so I'll shut up now. ;)

View attachment 22135
Not sure if it’s of any use, and it may already be obvious and in use, but whenever we have a snoopy loop wrapped tight around something that we may need to re-stow underwater we cut the loop with a ‘tab’ sticking out of one side. The tab is not in tension and much easier to grab with thick gloves and create a gap to stuff the line / battery cord / hose in.

I appreciate that re-stowing may be too awkward anyway in somewhere restrictive

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