Hownot2 rope failure at bolt

[mikem]

Note this is incredibly unlikely to happen, but do read comments:

63K views · 1.1K reactions | That’s a silly test! Caver’s use Y-hangs to anchor their ropes to bolts. It shares the load and risk in case the bolts fail. Bolt failure is super uncommon, and so is rope failure but we like what if scenarios. What if a

That’s a silly test! Caver’s use Y-hangs to anchor their ropes to bolts. It shares the load and risk in case the bolts fail. Bolt failure is super uncommon, and so is rope failure but we like what if...

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[Cantclimbtom]

Or for those of us who don't Facebork

 

[cap n chris]

People falling because they're unclipped, or incorrectly using their gear is far more likely. Worrying about anchors and ropes is a higher level of neurosis.

 

[mikem]

Note this is incredibly unlikely to happen, but do read comments:

 

[martinr]

Surely anything big enough, heavy enough, and sharp enough to cut through that rope (a falling rock?) is going to take out anyone already on the rope before the knot slips and unravels?

 

[mikem]

Quite probably, but not definitely

 

[JAshley73]

Surely anything big enough, heavy enough, and sharp enough to cut through that rope (a falling rock?) is going to take out anyone already on the rope before the knot slips and unravels?

I would hope & pray it might bounce enough to whiz past me, vs. into me.

Otherwise, "he died having fun" wouldn't be such a bad way to go. Pity the rescuers recovery folk though.



To be fair, I believe this was mostly academic (for fun) as is most of their content - not always to test out the most "probable" likelihood. It makes me feel better, learning that the figure-8 bunny ears (the only one of those which I'm smart enough to remember how to tie) has been proven by cold hard science!! to be most adequate after all....

 

[Bob Mehew]

We did do some preliminary work on Y hang knots back in 2013. Our report seems to have been lost from the BCA web site but hopefully is attached.