Question about stop grip and slip.

[Steve Clark]

I don’t hard lock off like that either, I’d thread a bight and put it over the top bobbin, but anyway….

When I first used a simple I was shown (by Steph) to put the first lock from the back to the front. I guess this is opposite to most folks. It has the advantage that you can always ID the breaking/dead strand and hold it whilst you remove the final lock. You can do it all with one hand (your right) and never let go during the process. I find this much more reassuring with no auto-stop.

It would be pretty hard to unlearn if you’ve learnt the other way though.

 

[pwhole]

I find that the Handy is so good at locking off that for less extreme changeovers I can just jam the rope tail over the top of the descender and that's tight enough to hold it - and for more security just pass a bight through the descender krab and back over. But yes, there's definitely not enough space within it to do it the way you show.

 

[cap n chris]

It should ideally be connected to the left of the chest ascender if you would prefer descent-to-ascent changeovers to be less strenuous, such that when it is locked off it does not impede the free/easy opening of the chest ascender in preparation for "relatively effortless"* clipping onto the rope. See ACT for details. (*By comparison to the fifty+ year old UK club changeover methodology which still seems to be doing the rounds).

 

[JAshley73]

Regarding lock-off's. Those photos show 2-wraps over the top, and through the braking krab, and then a bight through the braking-krab, and over the bobbin.

Undoing the bight could require a little extra effort, as the braking-krab is rather full by that point. Perhaps I could feed the last bight of rope through the attachment krab, and then over the top.

My gosh though, that method of locking off was so stinking fast & easy. If it's wrong or hazardous though, please advise and I'll revise my practice...

-The CT Aclese DX - While it took a brief moment to familiarize myself with the braking krab, it quickly became the favorite. With the braking krab positioned the correct way, lock-offs were quick & easy. I also felt like this device had much better friction-control than the Simple. I was able to hold the brake strand near my hip - much like you would with a rappel rack - and still have very nice control.

Also a quick note - In the last picture, you can see the Raumer-Handy affixed over the right loop of my harness - It was suggested to place it here by it's owner. I was immediately not a fan of this placement. Perhaps after some forced practice I'd like it, but did not like the first impression place here, and I quickly quit trying to use it.

 

[JAshley73]

It should ideally be connected to the left of the chest ascender if you would prefer descent-to-ascent changeovers to be less strenuous, such that when it is locked off it does not impede the free/easy opening of the chest ascender in preparation for "relatively effortless"* clipping onto the rope. See ACT for details. (*By comparison to the fifty+ year old UK club changeover methodology which still seems to be doing the rounds).

I can try it out.

On my practice rig, I obviously start on the ground, climb up, changeover, and come back down. I can pause before rappelling all the way to the ground, and changeover to climb back up... (I do this occasionally, but obviously not as often...)

I am curious though - With the bobbin attached to the right of the chest-ascender as-shown, to changeover down-to-up, it should be a simple step up in my footloop, then clip the chest ascender onto the rope. Right...? I've found that by leaning back slightly, it gives enough room to finagle the cam & latch on the chest ascender - that is, provide enough room to open/close it. Might be a problem in tighter areas?

Far from an expert here, and certainly open to critiques, criticisms & insults!

 

[langcliffe]

My gosh though, that method of locking off was so stinking fast & easy. If it's wrong or hazardous though, please advise and I'll revise my practice...

It's certainly not hazardous. If it works for you with the equipment you have chosen, go for it. Despite what some contributors to this form think, these things are not cast in stone. Over the years, your methods and equipment will are likely to evolve, benefitting from practical experience, surreptitious side-long glances at what other people are doing, and new equipment. Mine certainly have.

 

[phizz4]

I'm trying to find one of these CT Acles on line, does anyone know of a reliable source please?