• CNCC's 2026 Annual General Meeting - Saturday 21st March

    This will be held at Clapham Village Hall, commencing at 10am (we will aim for 11:30am finish). The village hall will be open from 9:30am for arrival, to provide time to chat and to help yourselves to a brew and biscuits.

    Click here for lots more info

Rigging Carabiner Choice

CDS

New member
Hi All,

In the market for some rigging carabiners and wondered which specific brand / model are your go to carabiner for rigging and why?

Previously, I've had a preference for Petzl hardware but happy to hear suggestions of other brands too.
 
I'm not sure it matters providing they they conform to European standard (EN 12275) or the UIAA standard. As far as I am concerned, the lighter the better, and I tend to buy them in batches of ten when there's an offer on.
 
Auto locking twisting ones to be avoided IMHO. Great if you're an arborist or sport climber, but as soon as as muck gets near them they don't auto lock and may even be a pain to manually lock and unlock.

Edit: Petzl OK (the oval ones) in screw lock
Inglesport seem to be out of stock (of the screw gate), but here's the idea
 
The smaller, the lighter, and cheaper the better as long as it's rated and a screw lock (easiest to clean out - as Cantclimbtom said). I think the CT lime is currently one of the cheapest options out there and is pretty light at 46g!
 
I agree with langcliffe, the only reason to pick a particular brand would be customer service, maybe history of past recalls, or where it's manufactured. I like supporting DMM as they're one of the only manufacturers still based in the UK.

V12 outdoor sell cosmetic seconds of DMM hardware, which brings the price of the Phantom down to ~£10, but they don't always have them in stock.

Edit: oh yeah, more generally, I rig with the cheapest, lightest, keylock-gated screwgate offset-D that I can find.
 
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I agree with langcliffe, the only reason to pick a particular brand would be customer service, maybe history of past recalls, or where it's manufactured. I like supporting DMM as they're one of the only manufacturers still based in the UK.

V12 outdoor sell cosmetic seconds of DMM hardware, which brings the price of the Phantom down to ~£10, but they don't always have them in stock.

Edit: oh yeah, more generally, I rig with the cheapest, lightest, keylock-gated screwgate offset-D that I can find.
(Your signature URL has been hijacked by a French hamlet just to make you aware)
 
Depends what you want...

For maximum lightness you could rig everything on Edelrid 19g wiregates (just over 19g).
For maximum locking lightness you could rig everything on Grivel K3N screwgates (37g).
For maximum cheapness you could use whatever super cheap steel carabiners (from a reputable manufacturer) you can find.
For maximum 'excitement' you could use some random Amazon specials... (don't do this)
For maximum suffering you can use a hooked-nose carabiner with a triple-action gate (I suspect there are no hooked-nose carabiners with a quadruple-action gate).
For practicality you could use pretty much anything sensible; it doesn't really matter too much.

Generally speaking, good features are lightweight, keylock (clean nose) and D-shaped.
 
In the market for some rigging carabiners and wondered which specific brand / model are your go to carabiner for rigging and why?
Maillons.

What does your club / group of caving mates use? Have you tried rigging with all their stuff so you know what you like and dislike yourself?

I like to peruse the local / travelling caving shop and chat with the knowledgable staff about my tackle and fondle all their gear.

Then I buy 100 Kong Ovalones for all my complex rigging situations ;)
 
I don't love the idea of aluminum carabiners in stainless hangers. The pressure will deform, and thus scratch thru the anodizing on the carabiner. In practicality, this is of little concern, but as a machinist with a mild interest in metallurgy, something I think about.

Also as a machinist, and someone who makes threads & screws, I don't love the idea of screw-locks. To function, threads need clearance, and threads with clearance move. Yes I know the addage of "Don't screw up, screw down" so that the gates screw-lock will try to "move" towards the closed/locked position with any movement or vibration.

So, I prefer the ever-reliable springs of Auto-lockers whenever possible. And if using in hangers, steel.

-For use in bolt-hangers - Some "cheap" Metolius steel D auto-lockers from a local store.
-For Munter/Italian hitches if need be - same as ^^^
-For use in webbing, an auto-locker or Grivel twin-gate.
-If it must be a screw-lock - then make it a Petzl so that you get the fantastic anodized red/dead bands showing that the gate isn't fully screwed closed.

Also, am I the only guy that really prefers ovals to D-frame krabs? I like the idea that they're a little more versatile in regards to having a big wide basket for webbing, not worrying about them cross-loading, and can easily flip them to satisfy whatever gate-direction you want...
 
I've [almost] exclusively used aluminium alloy carabiners on stainless hangers and I've never seen a problem. Bodyweight doesn't seem to be enough to make any significant damage (unlike sport climbers falling on bolts). If you're worried that any nice anodised colours on them might get scratched or wear, not sure caving is a good choice of activity for kit.

If all your caving trips are clean and dry autolock will be your friend. If you get them wet and gritty or muddy they will Not be your friends.

I like ovals too, but... I see them as very slightly more likely to cross load than D and I do watch out for that as they are obviously much weaker across the gate (8kN for a Petzl OK minor axis versus 25kN on major axis). Also the gate-open strength of oval is lower than D shaped. You'll probably ask when open strength is relevant so I'll mention mud and auto lock again 🤣
 
I've [almost] exclusively used aluminium alloy carabiners on stainless hangers and I've never seen a problem. Bodyweight doesn't seem to be enough to make any significant damage (unlike sport climbers falling on bolts). If you're worried that any nice anodised colours on them might get scratched or wear, not sure caving is a good choice of activity for kit.
You know, maybe - maybe - you have a fair point there... :LOL:
 
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