Carabiners - Uses & Preferences...

[carpet]

I may be in the minority here but I cannot stand double gated crabs, they don't seem to fit my hands somehow. I have an edelrid pure slider on my long cowstail as a kind of halfway between a snapgate and a locker, only time will tell how badly mud affects the mechanism though as it hasn't been properly buried in mud yet

 

[andrewmcleod]

I may be in the minority here but I cannot stand double gated crabs, they don't seem to fit my hands somehow. I have an edelrid pure slider on my long cowstail as a kind of halfway between a snapgate and a locker, only time will tell how badly mud affects the mechanism though as it hasn't been properly buried in mud yet

based on experience from someone I know who had one, not very long at all... the mechanism on the slider became rubbish very quickly. However, that might have been a one-off...

There is also the Petzl Ball-lock which is available on the Am'D.

 

[Cantclimbtom]

I coincidentally just stripped and serviced my setup... ... ...

Out of interest what's your opinion of the Petzl Freino (or the other way round Z). Do you not use them in your setup due to wear/economy, or other reason?

andrewmacleod:
There is also the Petzl Ball-ache which is available on the Am'D.

Fixed it for you!

 

[pwhole]

I've never used a Freino, partly as I was so happy with the Raumer Handy I've never used anything else. My main concern with the Freino is the friction spur appears to be 90° off-line for the descender rope path. But I know Andrew swears by them, so I wouldn't want to diss them when I've not tried them.

 

[Babyhagrid]

I've never used a Freino, partly as I was so happy with the Raumer Handy I've never used anything else. My main concern with the Freino is the friction spur appears to be 90° off-line for the descender rope path. But I know Andrew swears by them, so I wouldn't want to diss them when I've not tried them.

the frieno does lead to weird wear on the side plates of simples and stops. see video @1:51

 

[pwhole]

Yep - pretty much sums up all my concerns! Aluminium is too soft for much friction - I replaced my Banana bobbins with custom stainless ones for that reason - only recently flipped them after four years of solid use. Plus you can use a Raumer Handy for - well, I've had mine six years, and I would have been still using the older one but I gave it to a friend.

 

[langcliffe]

I've used Freinos for over twenty years (probably 25?), and I have been very content with them. I have found them to wear very well, but 90% of my caving is done on clean ropes, which will help.

 

[pwhole]

90% of my caving is (inevitably in Derbyshire) on very dirty ropes

 

[Fjell]

That spur will make it harder for me to fit in some pitches, so I would need an alternative sometimes. It will be grinding down the wall on the gate.

I seriously object to sideloading the descender and wearing the plates from an engineering perspective, it just looks nasty. I am amazed that Petzl qualified such an obvious deviation from the original design intent. How can they model random degrees of serious wear? I see literally no upside over using a Handy, and it will end up costing far more.

 

[Fjell]

The Petzl Rig has clearly been designed to operate like this with a wear plate in the appropriate place and hopefully designed to take the load. I see no evidence even in the new Stop of this being done. The whole device is being treated as a consumable with a fairly limited life. But since Petzl jammers are now the same you maybe need to accept this is their bag.