Brains
Well-known member
A trip report with a difference, its about climbing!
After many years of exclusively going underground, sometimes after a long surface walk, I decided it was getting on for time to get on rock again. A friend announced he had a day off work that tallied with mine so plans were made. All my climbing software has long expired and been disposed of on safety grounds, bar my rock boots which must be into their third decade. A spare harness was found in his stock of kit.
The forecast was for a front coming through later in the day so we arranged to meet at 9am under the Roaches, and after the usual pleasentries we plodded up the track past Dougies old cottage, now looking very plush as a BMC hut. The days of being chased out of his garden with an axe, then aiming pebbles down his chimney from the crag top are long gone. Some call them the good old days...
Given it has been several years since I climbed, and nearly a year since I last had a day out being active due to health problems I was feeling quite buggered by the time we got halfway up the steps. Yong looked appealing so we decided to start there. The usual faffing with boots, gear and string ensued until we were all set and no more delay could be tolerated.
With a call of "Ready to Spiff!" answered by "Spiffing!" the climb was begun. AE glided up the lower bulges to the awkward crack that tries to push you out of balance. Some good gear placements and satisfying hand jams followed and he was up. belays found and rope taken in it was my turn. I felt quite apprehensive but set too with a will. In hindsight I think I rushed too much and didnt pause to enjoy the positions. Gear cleaned from the cracks and hands prickled by the grit I arrived at the top. The stone was quite dry but a little polished, and the jamming strenuous after so much time away. I arrived out of breath, dry mouthed and a little queasy from the effort, hands trembling. AE popped down the stairs to fetch the bags while I coiled the rope, then onwards to the upper tier.
We settled under Sloth which had a lovely verdant green streak, watching us with an evil glint. Next up was the classic Right Route, again quite polished but with positive holds. Again AE led with ease up the crag, slotting in chocks as needed, and soon it was my turn to follow. After the initial thruggy jump start this more delicate climbing gave me more confidence and I was enjoying myself like the old days when I joined him on the stance. The rarely climbed second pitch was looking awesome, and without any polish and oodles of really grippy rough gritstone was a delight to follow.
The wind was howling over the top as I coiled the rope and the haze was hinting at the front coming on. Bosely cloud was fading into the mist and the mast on Gun Hill very indistinct. No chance to see Joddrell Bank or the big refinery over on the coast today, never mind the Welsh mountains or the Wrekin.
We carefully descended the climbers path to the right of the cliff and had a brief drink of water, well I would have done but the water bottle was safe at home on the kitchen work top, next to my sarnies. Oh well, dehydration training for me then.
Pedestal loomed over us, but in a tempting way and soon AE was romping up the face again. All along this main part of the cliff boulderers have polished the lower wall traversing up and down, but the holds are large and positive to start with, and where they get smaller the friction improves - not that it mattered to me today. After making the pitch look easy and setting the belays I followed up the sun warmed rock. Just below the shield of the Pedestal the sole of my right rock boot decided to leave me for a better life. After a short fight it was recaptured and stuffed in my top for later. The next few moves were a bit smeary but easy in rubbers as the old guide books would say. I had one and a cardboard insole. Up, down, up and down again, it was like climbing with mackerel on my feet. Not a great confidence booster. Enough of delicacy, grab a hold and lunge, grunge, maul and haul and I was past the slab and back onto positive edges and then the roomy ledge on top of Pedestal. Perhaps surprisingly I found myself enjoying the climbing even more.
Sat on the perch I could clearly look down on the bivvy boulder below. In my first few days of climbing (back in the 80's) I had been doing the 5a layway problem on the front face in a pair of Green Flash (who remembers those?), and my shoe edge rolled off its hold, I fell, headfirst, to the ground. Luckily I broke my fall with my wrists and my head. A few stitches and 6 weeks with both arms in plaster later I was back to normal, well what passes for that with me
Gear sorted I belayed AE across the traverse and up the final groove, taking a few pics of each other as a reminder of the day. Following on in my slippy cardboard soled boots wasnt too bad for the most part as the route is mainly on good edges. The small overhang was easily dealt with as was the groove to the top. The right wall looked tempting as an airy finish out over the roof, but not today. Once again I coiled the rope as AE cleaned the belays then it was down the gully to the left, under the natural arch.
Drizzle was now in the air and it seemed the best of the day was done. Back at the 'sacks we decided to squeeze a fourth route, and as Black and Tans was at hand it was chosen without further ado. As usual the hollybush lurking in the gully tried to make life unpleasent, but the passage of so many has pruned it back out of the way. AE led the route as a single pitch, passing a small nest on the way, and I annoyed a small chirppy feathery thing by whistling back at it. The drizzle blended into light rain. Belays fixed, rope pulled through it was time to go. The rocks were beginning to get wet now, but I swung out onto the slopping ledge away from the holly without getting prickled. My perch was good, but with my mackerel sole I was beginning to flounder a bit as I skated on the now greasy slab. Once again delicacy was passed over in favour of brutality and I was into the groove, then out of it again onto ledges to the left of the roof. A small nut was well jammed just out of reach - a rock 3 or 4 maybe? I had to slither up to it then hang on the rope as my feet wouldnt grip while I gave the nut a good poking with my special pokey nut key device. Onwards and upwards to the last little bulge, then the unprotected but easy headwall with large positive holds. AE was belayed on a comfortable ledge below the crest and I passed by to the footpath beyond. The wind was howling and the rain was horizontal up here, the west facing edges already dripping and black.
Gear sorted and rope coiled it was back down the gully for us to the sacks. In the shelter of the great slab it was just wet as we cahnged into normal footwear and bagged up the gear, exchanging banter as we had all day. I was pleased with my climbing and secretly glad I didnt turn into a frozen flounder! Back to the transport and a few hasty words in the rain and we were done till the next time.
All in all four quality routes in about three hours after a lay off for many years, and with a self destructing footwear was a really good morning out. Note to self - sort boots, do more climbing, invest in new gear!
https://www.facebook.com/OutdoorInstruction/posts/1080768735300110?pnref=story
https://www.facebook.com/Brian.P.Edmonds/posts/10154047519056422?pnref=story
After many years of exclusively going underground, sometimes after a long surface walk, I decided it was getting on for time to get on rock again. A friend announced he had a day off work that tallied with mine so plans were made. All my climbing software has long expired and been disposed of on safety grounds, bar my rock boots which must be into their third decade. A spare harness was found in his stock of kit.
The forecast was for a front coming through later in the day so we arranged to meet at 9am under the Roaches, and after the usual pleasentries we plodded up the track past Dougies old cottage, now looking very plush as a BMC hut. The days of being chased out of his garden with an axe, then aiming pebbles down his chimney from the crag top are long gone. Some call them the good old days...
Given it has been several years since I climbed, and nearly a year since I last had a day out being active due to health problems I was feeling quite buggered by the time we got halfway up the steps. Yong looked appealing so we decided to start there. The usual faffing with boots, gear and string ensued until we were all set and no more delay could be tolerated.
With a call of "Ready to Spiff!" answered by "Spiffing!" the climb was begun. AE glided up the lower bulges to the awkward crack that tries to push you out of balance. Some good gear placements and satisfying hand jams followed and he was up. belays found and rope taken in it was my turn. I felt quite apprehensive but set too with a will. In hindsight I think I rushed too much and didnt pause to enjoy the positions. Gear cleaned from the cracks and hands prickled by the grit I arrived at the top. The stone was quite dry but a little polished, and the jamming strenuous after so much time away. I arrived out of breath, dry mouthed and a little queasy from the effort, hands trembling. AE popped down the stairs to fetch the bags while I coiled the rope, then onwards to the upper tier.
We settled under Sloth which had a lovely verdant green streak, watching us with an evil glint. Next up was the classic Right Route, again quite polished but with positive holds. Again AE led with ease up the crag, slotting in chocks as needed, and soon it was my turn to follow. After the initial thruggy jump start this more delicate climbing gave me more confidence and I was enjoying myself like the old days when I joined him on the stance. The rarely climbed second pitch was looking awesome, and without any polish and oodles of really grippy rough gritstone was a delight to follow.
The wind was howling over the top as I coiled the rope and the haze was hinting at the front coming on. Bosely cloud was fading into the mist and the mast on Gun Hill very indistinct. No chance to see Joddrell Bank or the big refinery over on the coast today, never mind the Welsh mountains or the Wrekin.
We carefully descended the climbers path to the right of the cliff and had a brief drink of water, well I would have done but the water bottle was safe at home on the kitchen work top, next to my sarnies. Oh well, dehydration training for me then.
Pedestal loomed over us, but in a tempting way and soon AE was romping up the face again. All along this main part of the cliff boulderers have polished the lower wall traversing up and down, but the holds are large and positive to start with, and where they get smaller the friction improves - not that it mattered to me today. After making the pitch look easy and setting the belays I followed up the sun warmed rock. Just below the shield of the Pedestal the sole of my right rock boot decided to leave me for a better life. After a short fight it was recaptured and stuffed in my top for later. The next few moves were a bit smeary but easy in rubbers as the old guide books would say. I had one and a cardboard insole. Up, down, up and down again, it was like climbing with mackerel on my feet. Not a great confidence booster. Enough of delicacy, grab a hold and lunge, grunge, maul and haul and I was past the slab and back onto positive edges and then the roomy ledge on top of Pedestal. Perhaps surprisingly I found myself enjoying the climbing even more.
Sat on the perch I could clearly look down on the bivvy boulder below. In my first few days of climbing (back in the 80's) I had been doing the 5a layway problem on the front face in a pair of Green Flash (who remembers those?), and my shoe edge rolled off its hold, I fell, headfirst, to the ground. Luckily I broke my fall with my wrists and my head. A few stitches and 6 weeks with both arms in plaster later I was back to normal, well what passes for that with me
Gear sorted I belayed AE across the traverse and up the final groove, taking a few pics of each other as a reminder of the day. Following on in my slippy cardboard soled boots wasnt too bad for the most part as the route is mainly on good edges. The small overhang was easily dealt with as was the groove to the top. The right wall looked tempting as an airy finish out over the roof, but not today. Once again I coiled the rope as AE cleaned the belays then it was down the gully to the left, under the natural arch.
Drizzle was now in the air and it seemed the best of the day was done. Back at the 'sacks we decided to squeeze a fourth route, and as Black and Tans was at hand it was chosen without further ado. As usual the hollybush lurking in the gully tried to make life unpleasent, but the passage of so many has pruned it back out of the way. AE led the route as a single pitch, passing a small nest on the way, and I annoyed a small chirppy feathery thing by whistling back at it. The drizzle blended into light rain. Belays fixed, rope pulled through it was time to go. The rocks were beginning to get wet now, but I swung out onto the slopping ledge away from the holly without getting prickled. My perch was good, but with my mackerel sole I was beginning to flounder a bit as I skated on the now greasy slab. Once again delicacy was passed over in favour of brutality and I was into the groove, then out of it again onto ledges to the left of the roof. A small nut was well jammed just out of reach - a rock 3 or 4 maybe? I had to slither up to it then hang on the rope as my feet wouldnt grip while I gave the nut a good poking with my special pokey nut key device. Onwards and upwards to the last little bulge, then the unprotected but easy headwall with large positive holds. AE was belayed on a comfortable ledge below the crest and I passed by to the footpath beyond. The wind was howling and the rain was horizontal up here, the west facing edges already dripping and black.
Gear sorted and rope coiled it was back down the gully for us to the sacks. In the shelter of the great slab it was just wet as we cahnged into normal footwear and bagged up the gear, exchanging banter as we had all day. I was pleased with my climbing and secretly glad I didnt turn into a frozen flounder! Back to the transport and a few hasty words in the rain and we were done till the next time.
All in all four quality routes in about three hours after a lay off for many years, and with a self destructing footwear was a really good morning out. Note to self - sort boots, do more climbing, invest in new gear!
https://www.facebook.com/OutdoorInstruction/posts/1080768735300110?pnref=story
https://www.facebook.com/Brian.P.Edmonds/posts/10154047519056422?pnref=story
), we used to frequent the Roaches, one memory lingers;