Threading a mid-rope anchor

[andrewmcleod]

Only ever use rope slings in caving. Tape slings have no place in caving - not for anything - never.

Why?

 

[topcat]

I use a tape sling on every SRT trip;  it goes round my waist and legs.......also known as a harness.  It gets significant hammer ......should I design a rope harness?  Maybe make my millions as every caver in the world will want one. Not.

😉

 

[al]

Here's a method I've often used in the past to set up a midpoint without a sling- needs a maillon (better than a krab) but the flutterbies can just as easily be overhand loops. If you can't thread the rope around the back of whatever, just make one of the loops longer.

 

[JasonC]

al:  I like that - looks a lot simpler than the original knot, and uses less rope 

 

[aricooperdavis]

Yeah, nice option

 

[Fulk]

I agree with Jason.

 

[Tommy]

What about passing a bight round and clipping that in to both sides?

In some cases it would certainly slip if loaded one side or the other, but there may be enough friction in some cases to be allowable?

Would this use slightly less rope than Al's method?

I wouldn't do this...but for the sake of the thought exercise.

 

[Mark Wright]

If you are going to pass the end of the rope around the anchor point, as in Al's example, then you might as well tie a single re-threaded Alpine Butterfly and there's no need for a M/R or a carabiner.
You've got the same problem of potential abrasion in the middle of a rope though.
A webbing sling is always going to be a better and safer option, never mind what Simon thinks.
Mark

 

[al]

A webbing sling is always going to be a better and safer option

I agree completely, but I thought we were discussing things you can do when there isn't a sling (of any variety) available.

 

[Mark Wright]

A webbing sling is always going to be a better and safer option

I agree completely, but I thought we were discussing things you can do when there isn't a sling (of any variety) available.

I agree completely, hence the example of a re-threaded Alpine Butterfly. My point was that without using a sling you are aways going to have a problem of potential abrasion in the middle of a rope whichever method is adopted.

Mark

 

[mikem]

If you are going to pass the end of the rope around the anchor point, as in Al's example, then you might as well tie a single re-threaded Alpine Butterfly and there's no need for a M/R or a carabiner.
You've got the same problem of potential abrasion in the middle of a rope though.
A webbing sling is always going to be a better and safer option, never mind what Simon thinks.
Mark

Although you needn't thread the whole rope around, you can just thread one of the butterflies...

I suppose if you follow a lot of student riggers who miss natural rebelays then you might need these!

Mike

 

[andrewmcleod]

Also this sort of thing would be handy if you have P bolts to tie directly into and plenty of rope but have foolishly run out of maillons or carabiners...

 

[Tommy]

I'm sure I saw something passed around on Facebook a year or so ago where some Spanish? cavers were tying into rings on chains with just a bight by some means.
The cave seemed to have chain/ring anchors as rebelays, this was a while ago so memory escapes me somewhat.

Anyone remember it?

 

[mikem]

It would certainly be feasible to fit caves with bolts that can be tied into directly, the problem is those anchors will deteriorate / be misused over time to the point where they will damage the ropes - hence the current preference for taking your own attachments...

Mike

 

[Tommy]

Sure of course. Just trying to remember what the video was about as the rings on rebelays was odd. Anyway this is off topic.

 

[Ian Ball]

Wasn't it ssc in fixe chains?

 

[Ed]

this one?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exkRJzS_zAE&index=2&list=PLW6-iW_i_HgSZPjwEDJh0H-fexMcWo__u