New Rope
- Thread starter Getwet
- Start date
cap n chris
Well-known member
Start in the middle and work from left to right, swapping every fifth trip (approximately) to right/left.
Some cavers prefer to alternate diagonally but this is a regional preference, apparently.
Some cavers prefer to alternate diagonally but this is a regional preference, apparently.
Personally, I have broken in lots of new ropes using whichever end happens to be in the top of the tackle sack. I have had no problems at all with sheath slippage. If I were you, I wouldn't worry about it.
My understanding is that this used to be an issue before modern rope-production methods. Nowadays, apparently, the core and sheath are better bonded and the problem of sheath slippage does not occur.
Maybe somebody knows more about this than me?
My understanding is that this used to be an issue before modern rope-production methods. Nowadays, apparently, the core and sheath are better bonded and the problem of sheath slippage does not occur.
Maybe somebody knows more about this than me?
nickwilliams
Well-known member
Getwet said:
It will last longest if you give it as varied use as possible - use it any way up and try to avoid using one part of the rope more than the rest.
The more important factor is to ensure you soak the rope well before you first use it as this shrinks the sheath onto the core. If you abseil down a new rope without doing this, you will run the risk of knackering it on the very first outing.
Nick.
D
Dave H
Guest
I soak my new SRT rope reel (carefully unwound to avoid kinks) for 24 hours,
pull it through a tethered Petzl Stop twice (once from each end),
let it dry completely,
pull it twice more through the Stop (again, once in each direction),
let it rest for 24 hours and
finally cut into required lengths.
It may seem quite a lot of faffing about but I know that the sheath is bedded and the rope is not liable to shrink much more, before it is cut and first used. Your rope is your only form of support when abseiling/prusiking, so it's sensible to take a little care and attention over it.
PS.
After trips I wash my furry etc. in the washing m/c without any powder (to clean out any detergent in the system) then plat and wash any dirty ropes (again without detergent). All ropes (washed or not) are platted and laid on a horizontal plastic coated rack in a dry, dark place to dry out until the next trip.
pull it through a tethered Petzl Stop twice (once from each end),
let it dry completely,
pull it twice more through the Stop (again, once in each direction),
let it rest for 24 hours and
finally cut into required lengths.
It may seem quite a lot of faffing about but I know that the sheath is bedded and the rope is not liable to shrink much more, before it is cut and first used. Your rope is your only form of support when abseiling/prusiking, so it's sensible to take a little care and attention over it.
PS.
After trips I wash my furry etc. in the washing m/c without any powder (to clean out any detergent in the system) then plat and wash any dirty ropes (again without detergent). All ropes (washed or not) are platted and laid on a horizontal plastic coated rack in a dry, dark place to dry out until the next trip.
underground
Active member
Hi Nick, just wondering, but is this a manufacturer's recommendation or just a practice borne out of tradition? The only reason I ask is because I use and abuse thousands of metres of rope in industrial access, i buy it on the reel or cut to length, label it and send it out on the job 'as is' so to speak. I haven't really noticed a problem, and the ropes get a lot of use, in wet rain conditions as well as dry...nickwilliams said:
It'd be interesting to compare this with underground use, as I suspect the ropes will receive a more thorough and prolonged soaking in caving use.
Brains
Well-known member
I have had some very scary abseils on new unwashed rope, and would reccomend from my experience cleaning off the manufacturing lubricants prior to use. In the good old days sheath - core slippage was also a problem (oo er missuss) but seems ok with current manufacture.
Do you use the type of industrial descender where you turn a screw to adjust rate of descent, or just use caving type gear?
Do you use the type of industrial descender where you turn a screw to adjust rate of descent, or just use caving type gear?
underground
Active member
Brains said:
It's Stops all the way- I won't go into the reasons but screw type descenders seem to have drawbacks when at changeovers. Remember that abseiling whatever the reason is a learned skill, and that industrial situations call for 2 ropes, the second being a backup line with a Shunt or similar device.
I have long ago, as a beginner caver, abseiled on new ropes using SRT and found it fine- if a little fast.
Rachel
Active member
I was told years ago that the reason for shrinking ropes before you go underground was so that it minimises the possibility of tiny bits of grit getting into the rope and then the sheath shrinking around them, trapping them in to wear from the inside. Does anybody know if this is right or is it just another urban myth?
nickwilliams
Well-known member
underground said:
It used to be a manufacturer's recommendation, but I think things have changed in the 15 years or more since I last purchased any static rope!
I've just checked the standard for low stretch ropes (EN 1891) and it make no mention of getting them wet before performing any of the tests in the standard, nor is there anything about the effect of water in the instructions section. I've also just spoken to my tame IRATA level 3 on the other side of the office and he says he can remember doing this once a long time ago but has never bothered since.
So I think we can safely say that this is an urban myth and that I ought to check my facts more thoroughly before posting to the board!
Nick.