Replacement Aladin dive computer batteries

Pitlamp

Well-known member
Where's the best place to post Aladin dive computers to these days, to get batteries changed?

I have two of the old type (one grey, one black) and one of the blue nitrox type. The former can have their batteries changed DIY (with 3.7 V lithium batteries (RS part number 593-489) but the nitrox computer does need a shop battery change, so I might as well send all three at once (especially as my soldering abilities aren't great).

Any top tips as to the cheapest place?
 

Steve Clark

Well-known member
Chris @ Scubaworkshop uk - 07944272926
Norden near Rochdale

Great guy who does a lot of bulk/wholesale servicing for dive shops. He does do some direct work for end-users/customers, but tries to avoid cutting out dive shops if you already have an established relationship with one. In the case of SP battery replacements it sounds like you may need to go via a SP authorised dealer. Also see the list of officially non-serviceable ones. If it's one of those then you presumably need an electronics guy.


SP dealers in the north are Bolton Area Divers & Robin Hood Watersports.
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
Thanks both - I'll wait for a message from you Pete then I'll start ringing around and / or emailing.
 

PeteHall

Moderator
It's taken some digging, but I've found the details. As it's the chaps personal email address, I won't post it here, but will send you a PM
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
I seem to be writing "how to" posts lately . . . . What follows may be of use to any other folk who need an Aladin Pro battery replacement. DISCLAIMER: I'm not necessarily recommending doing this (as I think the manufacturer frowns on it, on the grounds of making sure the computer works correctly afterwards) but I've heard it said it's OK if the computer is checked against another one on dives after the battery change. I can't vouch for this fact, so what follows is purely for interest.

I've had quotes between £100 and £130 for a battery replacement for the Aladin Pro nitrox dive computer. I'd have to post it to a dive shop who would then post it to Scubapro who would then post it back to the dive shop who would then post it back to me. They typically quoted 2 weeks turnaround.

The actual battery costs just a few quid (Saft battery, part number LST145003PFRP) and is available from RS; their part number 778-1150). It's important that the correct part number is used so the solder tabs are in the right position. There are video guides on You Tube on how to change the battery and then reset the computer, such as:
. Perhaps the best video guide is a 3 part one, not in English but easy to follow, starting with part 1:

The job looks a bit fiddly and messy (which is why I suspect it costs so much for dive shops to do it) but you only need a few basic tools including a soldering iron, a 3 V button cell (to reset the computer) and enough liquid paraffin to refill the computer whilst completely submerged, before reassembly.

You can buy a second hand Aladin Pro nitrox computer with almost full battery capacity online for less than the quoted price of Scubapro replacing the battery in yours. So there seems to be little to lose by doing it as a DIY job.
I'm still mulling this over and may have a go. If so, I'll post again here and let folk know how I got on.

It's also worth mentioning that the RS replacement battery part number 593-489 quoted above for the older style Aladin (the one with a separate [air-filled] battery chamber sealed with a threaded disc) is now wrong. RS have discontinued this particular battery but they offer an alternative, which is part number 183-5705. If you type "593-489" into the search bar on RS Components' website, it's explained there.
 

PeteHall

Moderator
I take it you had no luck with the chap I recommended?
His prices were not much more than the battery cost, but he was just a bloke fixing them in his kitchen.
He doesn't seem to be advertising any more, so perhaps he's stopped doing them now...
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
I sent a message about a week ago and haven't had any reply - but thanks for the suggestion.

Changing the battery in the Aladin Pro Nitrox computer doesn't look ridiculously complicated so I think I'll have a go. The battery is ordered, together with a soldering iron and some solder. I just need to source some liquid paraffin now. Boots chemists in Settle didn't have it yesterday but apparently farmers still use it on cattle so I'll try the farmers' store next week.
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
Liquid paraffin appears to be difficult stuff to find in the Dales.

I tracked down a supplier today; Settle Country Store on the industrial estate, further down the road from Settle Coal Company. This shop supplies farming and vetinary-related supplies. They sell liquid paraffin in 500 ml bottles, which is about the right volume to be able to submerge the Aladin fully, in order to eliminate air bubbles when reassembling. In the picture below Settle Coal Company is on the right at the far end of the road (for those who know the area).

I'll be having a go at the job over the next few days and will post about how I get on.

Remember, I'm not necessarily recommending this as a DIY job; all the information in this topic is just for interest.

Settle_Country_Store.jpeg
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
Time for an update on this one. I soldered new batteries into the older two Aladins and they work fine. Regarding the Aladin Pro; I had no problem disassembling it, soldering in a replacement battery, then rebooting it as advised in the various videos. At that stage I then unfortunately found that the display screen is faulty; the computer works fine but some of the characters on the screen aren't reading quite right, so I'd not want to rely on this particular computer in the water.

Anyway, there you go; I guess two successes out of three aint bad. The battery in the Aladin Pro can be de-soldered and used in one of the other Aladins in the future.

Remember, I'm not recommending anyone should do this; I just created this topic for interest.
 

Wayland Smith

Active member
If you are going to open the Aladin pro again it might be worth looking the board over with a magnifying glass for any broken or "dry" solder joints on the display. Even try re-flowing them.
Possibly just for abstract knowledge rather than diving use? :unsure:
 

alexchien

Member
I've done this in the past, replace battery at home , and refill liquid paraffin.
It's quite easy and straightforward, but the depth gauge needs recalibrating, when you do it. I didn't.
Hence my computer now reads 5 m depth on the surface !!!

It was fine for a couple of dives, then the above happened.

So, you may get away with it, but beware of the above happening.
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
Thanks alexchein - and Wayland Smith. I think I've reached the point with the 3rd computer of giving in and looking to order something to replace it. If there's any doubt then that's the safest option.
 

Steve Clark

Well-known member
Not sure if you're looking for recommendations, but the Shearwater Peregrine is worth a look. I've been using it for a couple of years and it's very neat and has a first class OLED display for cave diving. It is also an entirely sealed unit and has wireless charging & downloading. Very simple menu system with two robust buttons.

Technically, the only major difference from the top-end Petrel models is the lack of helium mode & the integrated compass. I'd never use a digitial compass and it has adjustable gradient factors so I'd use it for helium mixes anyway.

If you want to test one, let me know and you'd be welcome to take it for a test run.
 

Pitlamp

Well-known member
That's a really kind offer and much appreciated. I'll probably be looking at the simpler end of the market though. The Shearwater has a superb display but I suspect I'd not use many of the features.
 

Steve Clark

Well-known member
I’m in the same camp really. I don’t use any of its features, I just really like the display. It’s one of the only OLED screens that you can view at an angle without it going black.

Xdeep made an even simpler screen on a OLED depth gauge but that was impossible to view unless you were at 90deg to the screen.
 

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