Spike
New member
Read Mark's first paragraph again:
My emphasis. Axial, meaning "in the direction of an axis".
Mark Wright said:
My emphasis. Axial, meaning "in the direction of an axis".
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SamT
Moderator
As far as I was aware - and I've just had a quick scan of this document..
http://cncc.org.uk/documents/Anchorreport15.11.11.-1.pdf
Axial is straight out - pretty much all the testing we do.
Radial is what you might call shear.
Marks "direction of intended use" could be either, as some bolts placed in the roof above a pitch are loaded Axially anyway.
http://cncc.org.uk/documents/Anchorreport15.11.11.-1.pdf
Axial is straight out - pretty much all the testing we do.
Radial is what you might call shear.
Marks "direction of intended use" could be either, as some bolts placed in the roof above a pitch are loaded Axially anyway.
bograt
Active member
Thats what is confusing me Spike, is this the axis of the shaft or the ring?, I prefer the term Latitudinal, as in 'in line with the shorter side' as opposed to 'longitudinal' - 'in line with the longer side'. Or, as Mark said, 'direction of intended use'.
P.S. a couple of posts whilst I have been composing this one, don't think they alter the context.
P.S. a couple of posts whilst I have been composing this one, don't think they alter the context.
TheBitterEnd
Well-known member
Assume it's a round bolt, the axis (as in axle) is along the the length, the other way, normal loading, would be radial. It's the axis of the shaft because that is what will fail first.
Spike
New member
Given the wording, and my limited knowledge of bolt testing, I would say that tests are referred to as axial/radial/shear etc with respect to the shaft of the bolt/drilled hole. To relate these to anything else would render them meaningless.
Thus:
An Axial test is along the same axis at the shaft of the bolt, i.e. a straight-out pull test
A Radial test is perpendicular to this axis, i.e. equivalent to a load hanging vertically from a horizontally drilled shaft
A Shear test is equivalent to a Radial test
Mark's "direction of intended use" is, as SamT says, entirely dependent on placement, and could be either Radial (horizontal bolt in vertical wall), Axial (vertical bolt in horizontal ceiling) or have some component of both. That can only be tested in-situ.
Does that help/make sense?
Thus:
An Axial test is along the same axis at the shaft of the bolt, i.e. a straight-out pull test
A Radial test is perpendicular to this axis, i.e. equivalent to a load hanging vertically from a horizontally drilled shaft
A Shear test is equivalent to a Radial test
Mark's "direction of intended use" is, as SamT says, entirely dependent on placement, and could be either Radial (horizontal bolt in vertical wall), Axial (vertical bolt in horizontal ceiling) or have some component of both. That can only be tested in-situ.
Does that help/make sense?
bograt
Active member
OFGS, all I was asking was if a comparative sideways breaking test was available between BP and SW anchors, I think everyone knows the question, does anyone know the answer?
When it comes to semantics, I always thought 'radial' had something to do with rotation - maybe another consideration? (that would be resin).
Does anyone know of an anchor fitted vertically into a roof so the load is a straight pull out?
It's ok thinking that the metal is good for the load, but has it been tested sufficiently for our national body to put their name on it?
When it comes to semantics, I always thought 'radial' had something to do with rotation - maybe another consideration? (that would be resin).
Does anyone know of an anchor fitted vertically into a roof so the load is a straight pull out?
It's ok thinking that the metal is good for the load, but has it been tested sufficiently for our national body to put their name on it?
MarkS
Moderator
This is probably relevant to radial testing: http://www.cncc.org.uk/documents/angled_load_test_14_sept_2013.pdf.
Not strictly radial of course, but the 60 degree test is closer to radial than axial.
Was there an answer to the question of whether it's safe to pull-through/tie in directly to these anchors?
Not strictly radial of course, but the 60 degree test is closer to radial than axial.
Was there an answer to the question of whether it's safe to pull-through/tie in directly to these anchors?
bograt
Active member
Roger W said:bograt said:Les W said:bograt said:
Kingsdale Valley Entrance pitch/climb at the main stream
I'll have to let you have that one Les, it wasn't there last time I went
Does that mean that it hadn't been installed then, or that it had been pulled out?
It means the last time I went down there we used ladders on a pitch that size and natural belays, although I can't remember whereabouts the belays where.
Interesting point though, both examples listed so far are pitches attainable with an eight meter ladder ???
Mark Wright
Active member
As far as EN terminology is concerned, 'Axial' means pulling it straight out and 'Shear' means loading it at 90 degrees, or 'Latitudinally' as Bograt prefers to call it. Most bolts would be loaded 'Latitudinally' in normal use but there are obviously exceptions to this as has been mentioned. In an industrial environment, if the bolt was intended to be used 'Axially' then the 12kN substrate test should be an 'Axial' test.
I remember testing an 8mm self drilling anchor when I was on a Hilti training course many years ago. The hole was drilled with a drill and the bolt was just poked into the hole and not set. When I tested it 'Latitudinally' it held a load of 20kN which was as high a force as the guage I was using would allow.
Mark
I remember testing an 8mm self drilling anchor when I was on a Hilti training course many years ago. The hole was drilled with a drill and the bolt was just poked into the hole and not set. When I tested it 'Latitudinally' it held a load of 20kN which was as high a force as the guage I was using would allow.
Mark
martinm
New member
MarkS said:
you should never pull ropes through any of these anchors, else any grit on the ropes will eventually wear through the anchor and require it to be replaced. That is why DCA have installed big rings esp. for pull-throughs in certain places. Eg:- the descent from the upper passage back into the crabwalk in Giant's Hole.
