Best Lamps/Lights for Photography.

The Old Ruminator

Well-known member
My second Sky Ray gone. My Karabiner fouled the Divers SRT deviation and it released my torch onto the poor diver below. ( whimpering sounds from the depths ) . This the last image of my beloved torch. What to replace it with ?



Cop a load of this lot.

https://everydaycarry.com/best-brightest-flashlights?fbclid=IwAR1UoCauXNb_hbvNfG8UCKtwU8TtHTvAFRXAvyq76QV6oYj5BeYHLUpN6pU

Maybe I should stick with the cheaper Sky Ray.
 

The Old Ruminator

Well-known member
Looking further its a complex situation and a compromise between light output , heat and battery life. The Peli RALS look good but are expensive. Also the lumens output quoted by sellers is almost meaningless as that level might just last a few minutes. On longer wet trips we have been doing I have allowed myself only two minutes to take a photo. That means that I have been looking at artificial lighting alone and letting the camera ramp up the ISO with onboard flash off. This one by Skyray torch and helmet lights alone.



The Skyray held low down. With a beam you have to be careful not to overexpose light areas. Faces pose a problem. Taken at f2 1/20 sec 800 ISO. Yes a compromise but with limited time a reasonable record.

This one is pushing the TG Camera to a limit. Some zoom which rarely works at f4 1/15 sec at 1600 ISO. Skyray only. As ever photos like these will need an edit.



The above is a record shot for an historical project.

The same project giving a reflection shot. Skyray only at f2 ,1/20 sec , 800 ISO



For the project again. Images shot on video have little back scatter and can be done on the go. Sometimes a record can be obtained by running the video frame by frame and photographing the computer screen as I have done here. Makes for better up front planning and another record.


 

The Old Ruminator

Well-known member
A stable platform for this one. My trademark pink boots.

Skyray and Scurion only. f2, a slow 1/8 sec at 800 ISO.



Scurion only plus divers headlamps. Had to wait for the exact moment he was in profile looking down. f2, 1/8 sec at 1600 ISO. Simple kit and techniques with no posing. The photographer has to wait for that right " moment ".



 

The Old Ruminator

Well-known member
Ogof Cnwc

Two Skyrays no flash. at f2, 1/8 sec , 1250 ISO.



Multiple Scurion and single Skyray at f2, 1/13 sec , 800 ISO.



Clearly there are compromises in shadow areas and colour balance which can be helped by editing. This was a fun shot at a rest break no posing and took a few seconds to take.
 

The Old Ruminator

Well-known member
The final compromise is cost. There are a number of Skyrays direct from China at ?23 post paid. I have now ordered a replacement. Dont expect them to be waterproof as water gets in via the lens. I can say that they work well for me and I got the idea from Andy Freem when he was shooting the Fairy Cave Quarry Film. Ideal on a pole for uplighting and backlighting.



Not a bad year for my cave photography. 2,200 images good enough to save to files. Probably five times that taken as the other thing is take ten and one might look OK. Hope everyone has a good and safe caving year in 20223.

Watch this space !
 

royfellows

Well-known member
Worth knowing, a standard 60mm Nitecore diffuser will fit all of the cheap 4 battery cell lamps including the eBay ?20 stuff, including the ones in your last photo. The problem here is the torch. The electronics are rubbish so that you get good power on fresh charged batteries but the output dives faster than the voltage on discharge. They also let water in, regardless of anything the seller states.

The super high power torches on the market such as the Imolent DX 80 are very heavy. I have one of these and it managed to switch itself on inside my clothing and nearly set me on fire.

I am using a variety of torches, one I built completely myself, and it cost me ?80 to build, others are off the shelf but modified, plus some bare emitter photo lamps that I built myself. The ?80 build has a toggle switch with a flip on and off cover and probably epitomises the conflict between practicability and style. Its actually become what I would call a "treasured possession".

I think that the diffuser route with whatever torch tales yotr fancy would be away to go. The diffusers do come in various sizes. Of course, you could just use a plastic bag.

Re torches themselves. From what I know and hear Fenix seem to be pretty indestructible, so matching one of these with a suitable diffuser would present a viable option.
Cant speak for Nitecore, and as for Imolent I have had very mixed experience of them.
 

ILT

Member
The Old Ruminator said:
For the project again. Images shot on video have little back scatter and can be done on the go. Sometimes a record can be obtained by running the video frame by frame and photographing the computer screen as I have done here. Makes for better up front planning and another record.

Rather than photographing the screen you could do a screengrab (some media software has the functionality built in or just pause the video and use the printscreen button) - you'll get much better quality without the banding you have created in your example.

I often see people recommend Fenix but my own experience of them has not been good...and their after sales service downright poor. Whilst it's not what I normally use for photographic light I do find the temperature and settings of my caplamp (...thanks Roy!) work very well for photos.
 

Paul Marvin

Member
These are what we use not dear and waterproof, we dive with them as well. We have a couple of skyrays but find the colour a bit cold for video and photos , these also cover the wide angle lens that we use . You should get them for about ?53 if you make an offer  (y)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402792531509?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20201210111314%26meid%3D54bebb112c6246fa93cab2ea9d32fd37%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D403360668803%26itm%3D402792531509%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseWebMskuAspectsV202110NoVariantSeed%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A40279253150954bebb112c6246fa93cab2ea9d32fd37%7Cenc%3AAQAGAAACMB5KVeeCVfFmdJ3Y%252FhYT2Y6zuYdgiDPm9IS%252FU8HlBr5BjXiVUWkfx97b4OztRfLsWPl06GyRD31Exy7PUUqbb747AlJz2ljszcOXGqun2NGr02Czh1UxN0NI9zPFGYOnLVwnWY1v4LWPrujoahuoo4bquAK5HfOfYnuzdDvlXrHkSRSRj8%252Bnbg76VR4pBWT8Yn%252B%252BVZ%252BukGcNRWTZlEqSpb5hYs7ssqbO2NLkhuQUxNz1uNf9xVJagfQqN79%252F8WKu2meYusNOKp7Iwk1DnijUKSBoRUvNiP%252FwPZuplVPUHQc9%252BcEgWrxc3vQxY4TWbvFx35vSBqHhQhPgr6Xlz5xuwtmj5OrkRCDqq1Z2GfHWpNAXN4HkDMqDOO3G%252Fzo61JMDfkRLTGo2nh8180ZRs7rWxCMdj1JKEsY%252BYgtvHCUvZEQYaG8rIKv0Cscv%252B829Q%252F%252BqbuOb7fCntcL90hraLmza8%252BlV8OaB%252BKPv1LhC%252Bf5RVsI1Iu30Et7lKyhYWBPzPnmiIqVfiZA3DECE3aluuTlB6AMUL%252BAXRNIX%252FCQCP1uUvwPQcti6%252FJLuMA8rckkUxCDRekxXDNyjH7gkBU34dkpyTvrmLcmGY5973Hhpc5K9mgNHf86ZBUwJhlfJAhmjd%252ByeXwLAP3htO3srl3MTIJRV9yf8dtK7WTMeCDLJ8SClI6wnNN5mWEOP9OXYLPFbNJcicc1jaDgoJ6MRZwpNFyQxurC84ANO%252Fvsjo8x9ZVNqHIK8%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675
 

braveduck

Active member
There is a video called "Exploring the Royal Gold Mine " I do not know what light the chap is carrying ,
But it is the best underground lighting  have ever seen ! Check it out . You may be able to contact the 
the group and find out what they were using .

 

CJ

Member
Another factor to consider; colour temperature. I personally like to have warmer flood for taking photos and capturing some of finer colours that can get washed out with a cooler light. Then again, I'm no photographer and just generally prefer the warmer colour aesthetic. It really brings out the Peak District mud.... I've attached a imperfect comparison (it's not quite like for like), but you can see which colours have faired better under warm (Wizard Pro XHP50) vs. cool light (Tovatec diving torch).

P.S - Can someone ID whatever I've photographed here. I've seen it in other mines and could never quite ID it... Or has something crushed a hairy highlander?
 

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Paul Marvin

Member
CJ said:
Another factor to consider; colour temperature. I personally like to have warmer flood for taking photos and capturing some of finer colours that can get washed out with a cooler light. Then again, I'm no photographer and just generally prefer the warmer colour aesthetic. It really brings out the Peak District mud.... I've attached a imperfect comparison, as it's not quite like for like, but you can see which colours have faired better under warm (Wizard Pro XHP50) vs. cool light (Tovatec diving torch).

P.S - Can someone ID whatever I've photographed here. I've seen it in other mines and could never quite ID it... Or has something crushed a hairy highlander?

Yes exactly colour temp is everything especially on closer stuff I use my stupid expensive greenforce dive lights for it the colour is perfect.
 

mrodoc

Well-known member
You can actually ask the camera to adjust the temperature according to the lighting. Most do it nowadays. I used it extensively for underwater photography with my Olympus C5050Z and things have moved a long way from then. Alternatively alter color temp when you process the images. it can be fiddly getting it right but it is doable.
 

CJ

Member
mrodoc said:
You can actually ask the camera to adjust the temperature according to the lighting. Most do it nowadays. I used it extensively for underwater photography with my Olympus C5050Z and things have moved a long way from then. Alternatively alter color temp when you process the images. it can be fiddly getting it right but it is doable.

I've only ever done that sort of thing when diving with borrowed cameras (and housings) that I could never afford! Then using the back of my hand to set the white balance when I forgot my slate. Nowadays I just use my phone to point and shoot, but I imagine such things can be done "in post" on phones, especially with RAW files? I'm well out of my depth with photography stuff.
 

blackshiver

Member
I tend to use a Fenix TK35 and would not agree with the poor after sales comment about Fenix above. I bought from My Fenix in Cardiff and once dropped the 35 breaking the front glass. It was shipped to back to the factory and fixed free of charge after I wrote a nice letter.
Other than that I use what?s on my helmet at the time, usually a home made job or a Fenix HL 55.
Most of my photos in Caves and Karst vol 2 we?re done solo with this combination and also those on Flickr (Google ?blackshiver flickr?.)
Hope that helps.
 

royfellows

Well-known member
Of course, you can always just use your caplamp, if its powerful enough. Photo Martin Farr
 

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pwhole

Well-known member
He was standing under the slab with the other guy when he switched it on, and just got back on his feet :)
 
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