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Vertical skills for UK?

Amy

New member
Not sure if this is the best section but it'll do. =)

Okay so...Rebelays are a check now, assuming decent rig job of it... I'll be doing some more of them (aka making them shittier and shittier rebelays until it's like "WTF who the hell rigged this crap???!?!?) but yeah, it was even easier than I expected it to be.

Alrighty so...checklist so far is...

x 400ft rappel
x 400ft climbing
x changeovers (down and up)
x knot crossings (down and up)
x rebelays (down and up)
x tandom climbing
x crossing onto pigtails
x various gear failures
x US style rigging
x Georgia (1:1) haul rigging
x 3:1 haul rigging
x J bottom belay (aka the right way :p out of the fall zone and actually works)


On my list still is
_ total crap rebelays
_ changeover with munters
_ rappelling with a french wrap
_ ~700ft rappel/climb (Whitesides in a few months, prep for Golondrinas)
_ Climb 1200ft (prep for Golondrinas)
_ pickoffs (useful for small party rescue)
And then if all goes well of course Golondrinas late this year with our long rope team, V-Bats :D Kinda depends on if I have money, and if Mexico is still shooting tourists :p

So what else should I add? Say I want to do Gaping Gill. What skills should I add to my list? I'm a little squicky on the difference between a rebelay and a deviation. Seems like it's basically just a redirect instead of being actually "rigged in"? In which case just treated as a knot crossing would be, yes?

 

Brains

Well-known member
I'm a little squicky on the difference between a rebelay and a deviation. Seems like it's basically just a redirect instead of being actually "rigged in"? In which case just treated as a knot crossing would be, yes?
Yes and no - with a redirect/ deviation your climbing/descending kit doesnt leave the rope - you unclip the deviation and reattach above or below as required, can vary from easy to near impossible! I will let others more verbose fill in the details  ;)
 

damian

Active member
Hi Amy,

Firstly not sure some items you list are very applicable to the UK. However, ignoring that, here are my thoughts:
Amy said:
x Georgia (1:1) haul rigging
What's that? Simply prusiking up the other side of a rope running over a pulley at a pitch head? Or is it something fancy?

Amy said:
On my list still is
total crap rebelays
by which I assume you mean those rigged very tightly??

So what else should I add? Say I want to do Gaping Gill. What skills should I add to my list?
Progression along aid traverse lines (assuming you mean Gaping Gill Main Shaft) ... not sure how many of these you're likely to have met with US-style rigging.
I'm a little squicky on the difference between a rebelay and a deviation. Seems like it's basically just a redirect instead of being actually "rigged in"? In which case just treated as a knot crossing would be, yes?
A deviation is where the rope is pulled from its original line by a krab on the end of a cord. I think this is what you would call a "redirect". We would NOT normally treat this as a knot. Instead we would simply unclip the deviation krab and move it from above us to below us (or vice-versa) without touching our SRT kits. The reason being that deviations are sometimes rigged from quite sketchy anchors, using thin cord, so clipping into them would be a bad idea. For a competent caver a well-placed deviation is very quick to pass. For an inexperienced one, it can be a nightmare!
 

Joe.Bones

Member
If by Gaping Gill you mean the main shaft, rebelays and deviations. And being fit and able enough to drag all your gear and ropes up the hill. I'd get used to our rigging on a few trips before attempting GG though, kind of a big step for a first srt trip!
 

Alex

Well-known member
I agree most deviations are easy but there are those rigged at an almost 45 degree angle no where near any walls then it could be a nightmare as there is no way of passing that one easily that I know of. Only way I found in that rare case is to pull on one arm against the rope pulling you the other way. One of example of this would be in Gaping gyhll for example the bottom deviation in Dihedral. I still wish someone would put a proper anchor in there so it can be rigged as rebelay.
 

jarvist

New member
Deviations: If there is a knot (i.e. Rebelay) you move around it, if there is no knot (i.e. Deviation) it moves around you!
This is extremely important. If you treat a deviation as a rebelay, you can end up suspended from a single point of attachment, with no obvious way to get your weight back onto the rope. Even trying to prussic back up doesn't necessarily help as you'll have your croll below the deviation into which you're also clipped and suspended.

A technique that often works really nicely with deviations is to clip the next section of the rope through the carabiner, move this section of rope to behind the gate, then hold open the gate and swing your body to flick the previous section of rope clear.
Thus passing a deviation on the way up, you never need to haul your pendulum weight with your upper body strength, instead just requiring the ability to swing in time.
On the way down, this means you can't 'drop' the deviation, or end up partially dangling from it if you clip your cows tail to it to stop it escaping.

total crap rebelays: If the rigger can rig it, you should be able to pass it. Tight rigging is safe rigging, for if there was a bolt failure. OK, in these days of P-bolts this is unlikely but you never know, and it's a skill you should have, and must have for doing any exploration / getting off the beaten track.
On the way down problems might be caused if your short cows tail is too long. You may also find taking off your breaking krab after initially clipping in gives you a bit more slack. Even if totally free hanging in space, you can always attach your footloop to the bolt. A kind rigger may even place a permanent sling footloop as a mobile ledge.
On the way up, everything should be passable with correct technique. In particular, you should be clipping in your cows tail suitably to avoid cross loading your Croll upon rope stretch.
 

ian.p

Active member
If the rebelay loop is realy tight and you find your short cows tail is a bit to long if you have a spare crab you can clip your short back into your central mailon and then clip your spare crab into the loop this creates which is half as long and clip that into the rebelay.
Or if its realy realy tight just clip the spare crab (or the crab on your cows tail) straight into your mailon before clipping into the rebelay.

a pantin or foot jammer of some sort makes passing realy tight rigging on the way back up an awefull lot easier.
 

scurve

Member
ian.p said:
a pantin or foot jammer of some sort makes passing realy tight rigging on the way back up an awefull lot easier.

Well it can, but it can also make things an awful lot harder.
 

JasonC

Well-known member
jarvist said:
A technique that often works really nicely with deviations is to clip the next section of the rope through the carabiner, move this section of rope to behind the gate, then hold open the gate and swing your body to flick the previous section of rope clear.

I'm probably being thick, but can you explain this more fully?
I've often found passing deviations (going down) to be unreasonably difficult...
 

barrabus

New member
Amy said:
_ ~700ft rappel/climb (Whitesides in a few months, prep for Golondrinas)

I was going to say tell me more about Whitesides, but I did some Googling and I guess you are referring to Whiteside Cave, Tennessee. Nice to know we have a family cave, I'll have to go and visit it sometime.
 

jarvist

New member
JasonC said:
I'm probably being thick, but can you explain this more fully?
I've often found passing deviations (going down) to be unreasonably difficult...

It's a bit difficult to explain with words...
You sort of get to a height at which you'd end up very slightly below the deviation when you swing in, then dynamically swing at the deviation (pulling on the below rope, running along the wall, building momentum swinging backwards and forwards  etc.) and when you're close enough grab the deviation carabiner & clip it to the (taut) abseil rope above you, super quick. Then you just detangle the (below) rope from the deviation (sometimes to have to put this over your body etc.) and off you go.
I think the key thing is to try and do it as a continuous manoeuvre, and get your height right.

The situation where you're trying to pull up your static pendulum weight with your upper body by hauling on the deviation cord is the one you want to avoid... Let alone if you've clipped your cows tails into the deviation to stop it going walkies, then slipped back. Now you can't swing as you're suspended by two points, are probably held away from the walls, so you have to use brute upper-body strength to remedy it. And you're stuck using a single arm as you'll need a hand free to get the krab open...
 

pwhole

Well-known member
What about using two krabs on a deviation, instead of one? As in, one currently holding the rope, and the other for the new section? That way you never have to use your cowstails to hold onto the deviation, as you clip the new one in before you release the old one. Makes going up easier, as you can pull a big loop from beneath you and clip it in, which also gives you a more vertical position when unclipping the other one.
 

jarvist

New member
Uhm, why not just use the same carabiner with two sections of rope? You put the rope /section you don't want to release behind the gate as you open it, pinning it safely away from the opening. I usually also attach the carabiner with a lark's foot, clove or italian hitch to the deviation pulled tight into the point of the peardrop, to stop it wandering around. I don't see how I'd do that with two carabiners.
 

Leclused

Active member
Hi Amy,

Perhaps some extra skills can be added :

"Desceding very small pitches"

The way I've learned to tackle those damm pitches is to clip in your descender in you life-line so that you descender is hanging higher. By this you have more space around your waist.

If your descender is to high then you can make it shorter again by just clipping the rope of your life line in the
karabiner of the descender and then clip you life line back to your d-ring

"Umbrella's"

See a manual :)

...

BR

Dagobert
 

owd git

Active member
Leclused said:
Hi Amy,

Perhaps some extra skills can be added :

"Desceding very small pitches"

The way I've learned to tackle those damm pitches is to clip in your descender in you life-line so that you descender is hanging higher. By this you have more space around your waist.

If your descender is to high then you can make it shorter again by just clipping the rope of your life line in the
karabiner of the descender and then clip you life line back to your d-ring

"Umbrella's"

See a manual :)

...

BR

Dagobert
(y)
Ideal for 'the narrows / Nettle. or G/womans shaft, in my opinion.
O.G.
 

Amy

New member
damian said:
Hi Amy,

Firstly not sure some items you list are very applicable to the UK. However, ignoring that, here are my thoughts:
Amy said:
x Georgia (1:1) haul rigging
What's that? Simply prusiking up the other side of a rope running over a pulley at a pitch head? Or is it something fancy?
It's just a 1:1 haul system. It's used less than a 3:1 but it depends on the weight/setup/how many people you have to actually do the hauling. It just has a name here for whatever reason. Basic haul with no mechanical advantage.

Amy said:
On my list still is
total crap rebelays
by which I assume you mean those rigged very tightly??
Yup basically. I know they are still safe (someone later commented on this) but they are harder to manouver on until it gets tight enough to just do it basically like a knot crossing easily. [this is my experience on my gear, at least]

So what else should I add? Say I want to do Gaping Gill. What skills should I add to my list?
Progression along aid traverse lines (assuming you mean Gaping Gill Main Shaft) ... not sure how many of these you're likely to have met with US-style rigging.
Ahhh yes. I would plan on putting cowstails back onto my system (ewww more shit to carry haha) but yeah...there are traverse lines here in some places for where there ain't much for your feet so you walk along the wall but if you slip you're caught and wont fall. Like OFD1 above the streamway, whats that called flood escape route, right? but maybe less place for footing than i remember there... or are you litterally freehanging pulling yourself across?

I'm a little squicky on the difference between a rebelay and a deviation. Seems like it's basically just a redirect instead of being actually "rigged in"? In which case just treated as a knot crossing would be, yes?
A deviation is where the rope is pulled from its original line by a krab on the end of a cord. I think this is what you would call a "redirect". We would NOT normally treat this as a knot. Instead we would simply unclip the deviation krab and move it from above us to below us (or vice-versa) without touching our SRT kits. The reason being that deviations are sometimes rigged from quite sketchy anchors, using thin cord, so clipping into them would be a bad idea. For a competent caver a well-placed deviation is very quick to pass. For an inexperienced one, it can be a nightmare!
Yeah we'd call that a redirect but i can't say I've ever seen one or that we use them really haha. I've seen a few rebelays at least...heh. I can re-rig the practice tree where our rebelay is that way I'm sure. But....okay I'm kinda confused. If you unclip the 'biner, since it's redirecting the rope to a different angle/location, wouldn't, as soon as you unclip it, you'd swing away and be SOL? I'm not visualizing it well. Know where a video is for some visulazation of the manouver as you do it is? I realize each case is probably unique but the general gist.

Joe.Bones said:
If by Gaping Gill you mean the main shaft, rebelays and deviations. And being fit and able enough to drag all your gear and ropes up the hill. I'd get used to our rigging on a few trips before attempting GG though, kind of a big step for a first srt trip!
I wouldn't attempt it first there, but let's face it, it's expensive to get out there and I really want to see it, so I'd like to have the skills practiced up. I said it in particular realizing it is a pretty major one for ya'all, so figured if I practiced the skills for that i'd have most the awkward bases covered in our differences of rigging.

Jarvist I appreciate your explanation but it is somewhat unhelpful as I'm not a frogger ;) I'm a single bungee ropewalker. From bottom up, CMI foot ascender on my right foot, croll at my left knee with safety teather to the waist (prevents heelhang scenario) and bungeed around my back so it slides up the rope, chest roller, and QAS running above that. And then I carry an additional QAS for performing various manouvers. When practicing rebelays, for example, I don't even have a cowstail on my system and I do it through the use of QAS. I'm never clipped into the rebelay itself. I'm guessing I'll need to put the cowstails back on my system for traverses, or, I do carry 2 prussik cords and extra biners on my system as is, I could use perhaps in a pinch for the same idea.

barrabus said:
Amy said:
_ ~700ft rappel/climb (Whitesides in a few months, prep for Golondrinas)
I was going to say tell me more about Whitesides, but I did some Googling and I guess you are referring to Whiteside Cave, Tennessee. Nice to know we have a family cave, I'll have to go and visit it sometime.
Nope. Not at all. Whitesides Cave is horizontal. Whitesides I'm referring to is a cliff in North Carolina. You can see into 3 states from the top! All the lengths I list are "single pitch" rappels....no rebelays, nothing. 'Tis why we have the big racks here! When you're dealing with 50-60 lbs (25-30kg) of ropeweight at the top that changes things a lot!
whitesides%20joey%20wolfe%20mp_com.jpg


Leclused said:
"Desceding very small pitches"
I assume you mean tight =) I've done some tightish stuff where have to stay quite upright to fit more like "standing" position while rappeling instead of "sitting"... Tight is always gonna be an issue for me on rope if it's squeezy tight to my body. My huge boobs really get in the way. I've had it where I can get my hips through things but can't get the boobs through due to angles and such. I honestly have no interest in doing squeezy drops that stay squeezy. A short tight constriction is one thing. A squeeze drop...not so much. I'm on the right. Sorry...I know my booblimits!

Roberts 01 by Sunguramy, on Flickr


simonsays said:
Are you planning a visit to the UK Amy?  :clap:
Actively no, I don't have money at the moment. I keep holding out hope I'll find a great paying job and be able to come in September though for Hidden Earth and caving. I mean...if ya'all wanted to pool money for a flight for me I'll come anytime! It's very easy for me to get large amounts of time off at the moment.  ;)


 

Joe.Bones

Member
Amy said:
I'm a single bungee ropewalker. From bottom up, CMI foot ascender on my right foot, croll at my left knee with safety teather to the waist (prevents heelhang scenario) and bungeed around my back so it slides up the rope, chest roller, and QAS running above that. And then I carry an additional QAS for performing various manouvers. When practicing rebelays, for example, I don't even have a cowstail on my system and I do it through the use of QAS. I'm never clipped into the rebelay itself. I'm guessing I'll need to put the cowstails back on my system for traverses, or, I do carry 2 prussik cords and extra biners on my system as is, I could use perhaps in a pinch for the same idea.

That sounds like an awful lot of gear that to me seems like it would be  wasted on our rigging, not to mention on your luggage costs for a flight over and carting it around up to caves, its quite a logn walk to GG. I'd be tempted to go back to frogging if you're comfortable with it if you come over, or a simpler set up, definately involving cowstails. Your QAS is a second hand jammer right? that could be useful for you.
and for a deviation, if you clip a cows tail into the krab of the deviaiton, if you let go you dont ping accross the shaft, still have to haul yourself back though so as previously said, best to do it in one motion, takes a bit of practice though
anyway thats my thoughts
 

Amy

New member
I max out around 100ft on my frog for climbing. I have the complete wrong body shape for it. It's completely inefficient and extremely tiring and taxing. I could switch my system back to a frog but I won't be climbing any more than 100 ft with it. The only extra piece of gear is the chestplate for the ropewalker.

Yes QAS is a hand jammer. So for my setup, one runs above the chestplate as a safety. Kinda like you do for a frog but no footloops. And then just like a typical frog setup here, I have a second qas that is clipped off to the side for use in various manouvers to keep two points of attachement. My frog setup had 2 hand jammers (upper ascender and qas), cowstails, croll, pantin foot ascender. So that's 5 bits of main kit. My ropewalker has 2 hand jammers (as qas's), croll, cmi foot ascender, chestplate. Again, 5 main bits of kit. The rope/bungee between the two systems is comprable in size as is everything else. Simply different arrangement of gear. It's actually much easier to manage than a frog setup for me. Not to mention heckofalot more efficient and I can easily climb 400ft without breaking sweat.
 

TheBitterEnd

Well-known member
How long is the cord on a QAS? Just wondering if you couldn't just put a carabiner through the hole provided for that purpose on the jammer and use it as a cows tail?
 
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