Simon Wilson
New member
Earlier on this year I went down Diccan to look at the anchors. I was disappointed to find a bunch drop-in anchors which seemed to have no purpose and which were very badly installed. Having given it some thought I decided to go and remove them which I did today.
They were about 10m back from the head of the first pitch. Between there and the pitch head is easy walking passage, there is a resin anchor about 2m before the pitch head and then a very easy stance to rig the main Y hang. Even if there was a need for belays 10m back up the passage there are two bomb proof natural belays within 1m of the drop-ins.
There was one stainless drop-in with a stainless bolt and ring hanger and about 2m to the left a group of 3 stainless drop-ins two of which had sheared off bolts in them and one which had a stainless plate hanger.
The first photo shows the ring hanger and two natural belays circled.
The second photo is taken after removal of the drop-ins and shows the single hole to the left and the group of three to the right with a sling and crab around the left hand of the two naturals.
The next photos show the drop-ins, the worst of which is the central one of the group which had over a third of its length protruding from the rock. They were all very easy to remove. When I came to the top one of the group, I put my drill in place but as soon as the drill touched the drop-in I saw it move in the rock. I got hold of it, gave it a waggle and it just pulled out with little effort from a finger and thumb.
The next two photos are after the holes had been filled with resin hybrid mortar. Sorry for the poor quality of the photos.
Finally, the metalwork after removal.
They were about 10m back from the head of the first pitch. Between there and the pitch head is easy walking passage, there is a resin anchor about 2m before the pitch head and then a very easy stance to rig the main Y hang. Even if there was a need for belays 10m back up the passage there are two bomb proof natural belays within 1m of the drop-ins.
There was one stainless drop-in with a stainless bolt and ring hanger and about 2m to the left a group of 3 stainless drop-ins two of which had sheared off bolts in them and one which had a stainless plate hanger.
The first photo shows the ring hanger and two natural belays circled.
The second photo is taken after removal of the drop-ins and shows the single hole to the left and the group of three to the right with a sling and crab around the left hand of the two naturals.
The next photos show the drop-ins, the worst of which is the central one of the group which had over a third of its length protruding from the rock. They were all very easy to remove. When I came to the top one of the group, I put my drill in place but as soon as the drill touched the drop-in I saw it move in the rock. I got hold of it, gave it a waggle and it just pulled out with little effort from a finger and thumb.
The next two photos are after the holes had been filled with resin hybrid mortar. Sorry for the poor quality of the photos.
Finally, the metalwork after removal.