• The Derbyshire Caver, No. 158

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Climbing wall rules

hannahb

Active member
I've just had an embarrassing experience at a climbing wall where I was told my harness was too old and that I wasn't allowed to climb there using it.

I think my harness is fine but perhaps I'm wrong.

Has anyone else had the same, or heard of this?

They don't check the age or condition of people's ropes.
 

Bob Mehew

Well-known member
I think you will find that the BMC / Association of British Climbing Walls will have a standard covering this and other similar matters, though no doubt it will be unevenly enforced. The BMC has some advice here on harnesses which may be of some help.

Unlikely as it may seem, there has also been one or two harness recalls; might that apply to yours? The BMC web site will no doubt help you on that point. I'm surprised you state that they don't appear to check brought in ropes.
 

Steve Clark

Well-known member
It’s just the staff following rules. If it looks old, it’s probably over 10years old, beyond the manufacturers recommended safe period for use. If they’ve noticed then they probably feel obliged to not allow it at their wall. Lots of small actions like this do reduce risk overall, it’s just frustrating to be the individual subject to the borderline cases.

I’ve taken a belay test at a wall and been challenged for only using one hand on the braking strand. Lowering my daughter who weighed about 30kilos at the time. I turned around to see a wall rat lowering his mate with a grigri where it’s only possible to use one hand because the other one is on the handle. “Erm…well…”

Similar when a guy from the club was challenged about tying in with a bowline. He’d been climbing weekly for over 55years at this point and totally baffled by it.
 

cavemanmike

Well-known member
It happened to me 2 year’s ago at the boardrooms in North Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿. To be fair they lent me and my wife one each foc.
 

alanw

Well-known member
I bet your harness wasn't as old as this 35 year old Mountain Equipment "Whillans" Alpine harness!
alpine_harness.jpg
 

hannahb

Active member
I think you will find that the BMC / Association of British Climbing Walls will have a standard covering this and other similar matters, though no doubt it will be unevenly enforced. The BMC has some advice here on harnesses which may be of some help.

Unlikely as it may seem, there has also been one or two harness recalls; might that apply to yours? The BMC web site will no doubt help you on that point. I'm surprised you state that they don't appear to check brought in ropes.

No my harness is not subject to a recall.

We asked specifically whether they check ropes, and they said they do not.
 

hannahb

Active member
They said it was part of the participant statement (waiver) but it's not. It's a bit odd they don't check before you've paid your money.
 

andrewmcleod

Well-known member
If there is an accident at a climbing wall, it will be bad for the wall even if it is entirely the fault of the climber themselves, so I can see why they want to cut down any risks they can. I imagine there is a _lot_ of paperwork to fill out at best.
 

mikem

Well-known member
Standard practice at lots of walls. They often employ minimally qualified staff as well, so have to set parameters.
 

cavemanmike

Well-known member
I prefer trad to be honest but my wife wanted to try climbing 🧗, it seemed like a good idea on a rainy day. Won’t be going again
 

hannahb

Active member
Yes true. Sadly cragging doesn't equal effective training in my admittedly limited experience - I just don't get enough done.
 

Fjell

Well-known member
They caught me using an Avanti in Kendal, took them a while though. I was only belaying a top rope so I couldn’t see why that could possibly be an issue. Ho hum. Had to rent some tat.
 

georgenorth

Active member
I have some sympathy for the ‘jobsworths’. Climbing walls have a duty of care towards their customers, hence the belay police checking up on belaying technique, knot tying etc. I’m kind of surprised they picked up on a harness beyond its recommended lifespan (generally 5 or 10 years depending on the manufacturer), but it’s hard to argue that they’re not right to enforce this if they notice it.

I think there’s been much more awareness of this in climbing circles following the death of Todd Skinner in 2006 due to a worn out harness failing.

What was the harness by the way?

G.
 

kay

Well-known member
Just go to a crag; there's usually no jobsowrth there giving unnecessary hassle.
Unfair to use the pejorative term “jobsworth”. Many customer facing roles are designed to not need individual intelligence/common sense, to the extent that individual thought is not allowed, and could indeed mean the loss of your minimum wage or not much above job. The blame doesn’t lie with the person applying the company-decreed rules.
 

hannahb

Active member
Wild Country Syncro, orange and black womens version from some time ago. I didn't realise till today that it looked any different to anyone else's, but I acknowledge that it probably looks a bit dated.

1000015932.jpg


@georgenorth Do I need to re-evaluate my approach to gear? Until now I've been of the opinion that gear lasts far, far longer than the manufacturer's recommended lifespan, especially if little used and visually in good nick. I'm willing to be persuaded otherwise.
 
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