Helmet Lamps
- Thread starter MJenkinson
- Start date
royfellows
Well-known member
I get a lot of kind praise for my lamps but have to add that the gentleman needs a dive lamp which do not make.
Mine are IP67 which is a miserable 1 metre, and thats water as well, you know, the stuff that comes out of a tap. The switches dont take kindly to sulphuric acid, it corrodes the lamp as well.
(Insider joke)
EDIT
The insider joke is some mine explorers, I worry for them never mind the lamp
Mine are IP67 which is a miserable 1 metre, and thats water as well, you know, the stuff that comes out of a tap. The switches dont take kindly to sulphuric acid, it corrodes the lamp as well.
(Insider joke)
EDIT
The insider joke is some mine explorers, I worry for them never mind the lamp
jcarter5826
Member
Matt. Steves and my el speleos are specific dive rated versions.
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
PeteHall
Moderator
Out of interest Matt, what light did you go for in the end and how do you rate it so far?
I recently settled on a pair of LED Lenser D14 Frogman's for ?37 each off ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152331453808?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The beam is very tight, so they are not the best for caving up to your sump, but they are good in the water. I found that it's worth having both on for climbs, otherwise you end up with a big shadow of your arm right where you need to see for a hand-hold!
They make an annoying buzzing noise on low power, but you generally can't hear this in the cave with a bit of water flow.
I'm told the switches can break, so have mounted them pointing down. They can be turned on by pushing the switch towards the helmet, so nothing sticking out, though it is a bit of a fiddle to get turn them off again from this position with diving gloves on. You can also turn them on by pulling the swith out, but this is more likely to cath on something and either switch the light off, or break the switch.
I'm yet to find out how long the batteries last, but on 4 AA's, it's easy to carry spares and interchangable with everything else.
Overall, I'm very pleased with them for the price
I recently settled on a pair of LED Lenser D14 Frogman's for ?37 each off ebay:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152331453808?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The beam is very tight, so they are not the best for caving up to your sump, but they are good in the water. I found that it's worth having both on for climbs, otherwise you end up with a big shadow of your arm right where you need to see for a hand-hold!
They make an annoying buzzing noise on low power, but you generally can't hear this in the cave with a bit of water flow.
I'm told the switches can break, so have mounted them pointing down. They can be turned on by pushing the switch towards the helmet, so nothing sticking out, though it is a bit of a fiddle to get turn them off again from this position with diving gloves on. You can also turn them on by pulling the swith out, but this is more likely to cath on something and either switch the light off, or break the switch.
I'm yet to find out how long the batteries last, but on 4 AA's, it's easy to carry spares and interchangable with everything else.
Overall, I'm very pleased with them for the price
I have built a dive proof housing for my duo insert (to be tested yet) but hope it will be waterproof to 70m.
Battery box is smaller than a dive Scurions, front end is around the same size as a standard duo.
Obviously it is still just a duo insert but I have always been happy with mine caving and wish to take it through sumps for the caving in between. Whilst underwater I will use dive lights on the side which I find are less suitable for caving.
Battery box is smaller than a dive Scurions, front end is around the same size as a standard duo.
Obviously it is still just a duo insert but I have always been happy with mine caving and wish to take it through sumps for the caving in between. Whilst underwater I will use dive lights on the side which I find are less suitable for caving.
Duncan Price
Active member
PeteHall said:
I've been using these for a number of years. I've got 4 mounted I two banks either side of my cave diving lid for trips which are mainly diving and another pair mounted one either side of my helmet with a standard cap lamp for trips which are mainly caving with some diving. I also have one strapped to a T-shaped bit of metal sheet (up the vertical of the T) to mount as a hand-held light with a loop of rubber across the horizontal of the T which secures it over the back of my hand.
Photos: Gavin Newman & Peter Bolt
Attachments
At risk of thread drift, has anyone else had problems with the Lensor metal bezels coming apart from the plastic bezel underneath? You try and unscrew the torch (to change the batteries) and instead the metal bezel unscrews. Nuisance, as everything ends up cross-threaded. I've binned the metal bezels and wrapped snoopy loop and tape round in their place.
L
L
Long Drop said:At risk of thread drift, has anyone else had problems with the Lensor metal bezels coming apart from the plastic bezel underneath? You try and unscrew the torch (to change the batteries) and instead the metal bezel unscrews. Nuisance, as everything ends up cross-threaded. I've binned the metal bezels and wrapped snoopy loop and tape round in their place.
L
Yes I currently have one stuck half on half off !
MJenkinson
Member
In the end I bought an expensive house and have no money for lights!
However...my duo is dying. I re-greased the o-ring before a trip on Friday and still tipped half a box full of water out from a dive in a 1 - 2m deep sump. Maybe its the cable gland. It has also started turning on and off and there is little change between the settings even with newly charged batteries (they may be knacked from getting wet so I have bought some new ones I have yet to try).
I have always have my 2 UK LED mini Q40s on my lid when I dive, and if I am feeling fancy I helmet mount my canister dive light (but that's not suitable for all caves).
The light from the q40s is a bit pap for dry caving (very narrow) but I just have to assume that the duo will kark it at any point.
I now see that Bif is stopping production of the rude noras as well, so even the one I can afford - when I can afford it again - there might not be any ha!
Long term (assuming availability) I will get a Nora. If not then I will have to save for a Scurion.
However...my duo is dying. I re-greased the o-ring before a trip on Friday and still tipped half a box full of water out from a dive in a 1 - 2m deep sump. Maybe its the cable gland. It has also started turning on and off and there is little change between the settings even with newly charged batteries (they may be knacked from getting wet so I have bought some new ones I have yet to try).
I have always have my 2 UK LED mini Q40s on my lid when I dive, and if I am feeling fancy I helmet mount my canister dive light (but that's not suitable for all caves).
The light from the q40s is a bit pap for dry caving (very narrow) but I just have to assume that the duo will kark it at any point.
I now see that Bif is stopping production of the rude noras as well, so even the one I can afford - when I can afford it again - there might not be any ha!
Long term (assuming availability) I will get a Nora. If not then I will have to save for a Scurion.
MJenkinson said:
My 'good' duo started leaking at both ends which prompted me to make this one. It is definitely a hair line crack around the battery box gland which is causing that to leak not sure about the front...
Its been relegated to dry trips only now with the old leds back inside it
I have had one of my very trusty frogmen lensers start to leak inexplicably over the last few months, I swapped parts around and did have some dry dives from it but after most it was completely water logged and i couldn't figure where the water was getting in despite o ring cleaning etc and the usual precautions.
A few weeks ago when switching it on underwater the whole switch assembly came off in my hand leaving a big hole in the body, the obvious source of my leak over the past few months so it seems they can fracture here so if yours is leaking it may be this !
A few weeks ago when switching it on underwater the whole switch assembly came off in my hand leaving a big hole in the body, the obvious source of my leak over the past few months so it seems they can fracture here so if yours is leaking it may be this !
MJenkinson
Member
maxf said:
Yeah, there is water in both "ends" of it. Quite depressing really as its done me well.
Why the hell do I have to pay stamp duty on money I have already been taxed on!?!?!? bastards. This real-life malarkey is really getting in the way of my caving.
Duncan Price
Active member
maxf said:Long Drop said:At risk of thread drift, has anyone else had problems with the Lensor metal bezels coming apart from the plastic bezel underneath? You try and unscrew the torch (to change the batteries) and instead the metal bezel unscrews. Nuisance, as everything ends up cross-threaded. I've binned the metal bezels and wrapped snoopy loop and tape round in their place.
L
Yes I currently have one stuck half on half off !
Has happened to me more than once - the yellow lights in the picture of me diving with a cap lamp on have had the ends of the metal sleeves cut off on a lathe. I have tried gluing the metal sleeves on to the clear plastic beneath with thread lock but frequently this results in the metal sleeve jamming half on - hence firing up the lathe. The technique to sort this out is 1) change the batteries infrequently - the lights run for 20+ hours. 2) if the metal sleeve comes off first, remove the plastic cover underneath and carefully clean the threads then screw the metal sleeve back on. To get a better grip place the plastic lens assembly on a sheet of inner tube to grip it - the final bit can be done by putting the assembly in a vice with inner tube on the base and big pencil rubber pressing down on the face so that you can twist the metal sleeve. Its a right PITA and I write the date when the batteries were changed on a bit of insulation tape which I stick inside my helmet so I know roughly how long they've been used and fit new cells for longer trips. I've easily done a week's worth of cave diving in France or Florida on a single set of cells. YMMV.
royfellows
Well-known member
MJenkinson said:
Where do you get this from please?
MJenkinson
Member
facepage.
""A bit of a heads up. We have now been building Nora 2s for a number of years, and have decided to not build anymore. Therefore Nora 2s will be discontinued when we run out of existing stock".
I asked about a replacement model on the way and he said "not in immediate future. Longer term, probably".
""A bit of a heads up. We have now been building Nora 2s for a number of years, and have decided to not build anymore. Therefore Nora 2s will be discontinued when we run out of existing stock".
I asked about a replacement model on the way and he said "not in immediate future. Longer term, probably".
Wayland Smith
Active member
MJenkinson said:
Only Nora2 discontinued.
Hugh Parker What about custom duo?
3 February at 18:57 Rude Nora
Nothing else changes re. Customduo / Little Monkey. We are just not building any more of one of our range of products, specifically Nora 2s.
