Our initial plans (now that Low's Chain is done) are (with one exception) to replace existing anchors.
There are 'official fixed aids' which are either rawlbolts or eyebolts, often singly, which are probably older than I am. Some might be old through-bolts or spits and hangers. These are:
- Crevasse bolts
- Fault Aven bolts
- The bolt holding the chain on the Letterbox (which is an odd one since it's only used to hold a chain).
There are over 'non-official' fixed aids which need work e.g.:
- the Skyhook which doesn't currently work very well as it dates to when it was primarily climbed with ladders. It doesn't get you to the top (so you have to a sketchy climb to the top) and is relying on a fixed SRT rope rather than the old pull-up system. The rope rubs slightly if not used with great care, so the rope (not supplied by SWCC) ends up getting cored.
- the pitch into the Chasm, which (I think) is a single crappy rusty ring hanger with a natural backup further back. Apparently people still use this regularly (I wouldn't touch it with a barge pole).
- the anchors for the Swamp Creek pitch. I haven't done this, but I'm told it's an excellent Yorkshire-type traverse and pitch into the main streamway. I also believe at least one of the spits pulled out last year.
- the abseil from the Bedding Chambers into Gnome Passage. Not a clean hang (at all), so currently only a pull-through but this does get used. Currently a natural backup leading to (I think) a pair of in-situ spits, hangers and maillons. It's a nice pitch though.
- the p8 and p20 pitches in the Great Oxbow series (accessible via the Skyhook). These provide a non-streamway way to Marble Showers without doing the Midnight Traverses. I've done the pitches but not the route from there to Marble Showers; we were instead doing the 7-pitch round trip via the Skyhook, those pitches, Mutiny Junction and Hayden's Dig.