Alkapton said:
. . .
At the recent PDCMG meeting it was decided to put the new ladder {back} at the bottom of the entrance series just before Cairn Junction because tired cavers have problems climbing up a knotted rope.
actually I find this climb completely impossible without using SRT so I'll be the first to celebrate the installation of the ladder in the L&F.
. . .
Hi Chris
When I read your post this evening I recalled another recent posting from you in which you said in part: "Most of my caving has been done solo - starting with 'easy' caves I've worked up to challenging caves by using descriptions to get to 'next step'."
I have done the climb you describe in all states of good fitness (on the way into Ogof Draenen) and also in all states of exhaustion (on the way out from the Dollimore Series and War of the Worlds etc.).
It's all about technique - especially if you find climbs tricky with your medical condition. What you need to do is go in with someone who is a patient teacher and who is also confident and knowledgeable about this particular climb and ask them to show you where the holds are and what precise moves to make. Learning from someone with more experience than yourself is not a weakness or a shortcoming - it gives you greater skill, strength and confidence.
The problem with the climb is that the holds in general are not where the knotted rope hangs - you have to work your way backwards into where the rift ends. Once you see how it is done, then part way down the climb a bold step from the side on which you first approach the climb (on the way in), across to the far wall, enables you to descend from the most exposed part of the climb to a point where the moves are thereafter relatively straightforward for the lower less-exposed section. What you need to do is remember how you came down when you are looking for the holds on the way back up again.
The secret is to try and do the climb without using the knotted rope until you really have to. It is holding onto the rope and relying on it which is giving you the most problems on the climb. There was no rope there at all (handline or lifeline) when I first did the climb. At present I wouldn't recommend that you try the climb without being lifelined - but I have to admit I can't ever remember using a lifeline on the pitch myself.
If climbing is a problem for you try some practice sessions on an indoor climbing wall where you should be able to find someone to give you assistance and guidance. If you can get to Bristol, then try Undercover Rock:
http://www.undercover-rock.com/default.aspx
I started on a much more primitive sports centre climbing wall in the late 1970s and afterwards ended up being taken across places like the Marble Showers Traverses in OFD. I seem to recall that particular experience, or certainly my first trip out towards OFD 3, was in the company of Rob Parker who later built Undercover Rock. There's a picture of Bob Hall on the Marble Showers Traverses here:
http://www.darkanddeep.co.uk/caving_South%20wales.asp
There's around a 70-90 ft (21.3-27.4 m) drop beneath Bob's feet. There's no traverse line, no fixed aids and no lifeline. Hunting for that picture for you I've noticed that there's a picture of me in Midnight Passage (also in OFD) next to him - virtually at the bottom of the page.
Yes, asking for fixed aids to be installed where there are tricky climbs is one potential solution, but you'll find it far more satisfying when you discover that, having learnt the correct technique, you will be quite capable of doing the climb in style yourself - without assistance - and will then also be in the enjoyable position of being able to show other less experienced cavers how to do the climb for themselves . . .