• The Derbyshire Caver, No. 158

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Owl Hole - replacing the anchors on the climb

DCA

Active member
DCA volunteers are replacing the anchors used on the climb up to the Owl Hole entrance. We looked closely at possible descent routes from the top of the crag, but decided that there wasn't a line with good enough rock that we were prepared to recommend it! The usual climb up is on slippery, steep rock and the existing anchors are corroded and rather too spaced out for safe climbing on cowstails or static rope. Resin anchors will replace the old rusted anchors, which will eventually be removed. It should be possible in future to ascend using both ends of an SRT rope alternately clipped to the new bolts, plus a cowstail to back you up to a second anchor at any point on the climb. We'll also install a suitable Y hang at the cave entrance with a stainless steel chain that can be used for pull through descents at the end of your trip.
2 working days have already been completed and we expect only one more visit will be needed to complete the job. As of right now, all the new anchors are in, but are untested (and tagged accordingly). We recommend that you do not use the anchors before testing can be completed, but certainly do not use them until at least the 14th July so we can be sure the resin is fully cured.
We'll let you know as soon as the route is complete and update the listing on https://www.peakdistrictcaving.info/.
Pete Knight, DCA Anchor Installer & Projects Officer.

If you are not familiar with pull-through rigging techniques, practice them first under supervision! There is a good CIC training document on the BCA website here: https://british-caving.org.uk/documents/cic-pull-through-caving-techniques/?tmstv=1689095895

Photos: pwhole ascending on the original anchors this morning:

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DCA

Active member
A break in 'real' work and some good weather allowed Pete Knight, Phil Wolstenholme and Luke Brock to return to complete the work at Owl Hole today. All of the new anchors were tested to 6kN for 60 seconds, and the old rusted ones were pulled out or cut off as best we could manage. You'll see from the photo below that the biggest change is that the anchors are closer together than previously, and that there is now a pair of anchors above the entrance tunnel to give a better SRT or pull-though rig.
Climbing vertically up on rock and anchors alone is not a common way for cavers to operate, so do bear in mind that when using caving gear and caving rope, care is needed to limit any possible fall and to never rely on a single anchor. You personally may think there are a lot of anchors here now, but simply put, we wanted to ensure it could be climbed safely and without the unnecessary risk of large fall onto kit not designed for that.
We have updated the Owl Hole description on PDCi to reflect the changes and give a couple of suggestions of how you could tackle the climb up using normal caving kit. Of course, sport climbing techniques with dynamic rope and quickdraws would likely be fine too if that's your preference. Not to sound too patronising, but please only attempt this climb if you know what you are doing and understand the risks your chosen technique may present.
Lastly, remember that Owl Hole has some wonderful and delicate formations, and care is needed to protect the cave for future generations.


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pwhole

Well-known member
Rigging and operating the pull-through is easy, and a nice hang is provided from the two top anchors without any need for a ring or suchlike, especially if rigged with a long loop on the alpine butterfly:

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pwhole

Well-known member
We also cut a little drain slot in the lip, so much more of that manky puddle drains out now.

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paul

Moderator
A bit more complicated than the old wooden builder's ladder we used to use when digging there! :)

Good job though.
 
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