Rawlbolt eyebolts - strength?

[Penguin]

Does anyone have any information on the strength of Rawlbolt eyebolts?  I can only find strength data for the projecting-shield type. 

While the internals of the bolts are the same, the anchor point on the eyebolt type will be further from the wall and i want to know how much this will affect the strength if at all.  Or at what point the actual bolt will distort/bend under load.

Specifically i'm interested in the M6 size, as these can be placed with a 12mm bit...

 

[martinm]

Personally, I use these in preference:-

http://www.essentialsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Excalibur_Eyebolts_76.html

Specifically the Excalibur Eyebolt M12 x 75 which also only need a 12mm hole drilling. They are all anodised too.

Specs for them can be found here:-

http://www.excaliburscrewbolts.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=36:eyb-12mm&catid=11:eyebolt&Itemid=39

I use the smaller ones for deviations, handlines, etc. They don't stress the rock and if you find the aven / pitch doesn't go anywhere, you can always take them out by unscrewing them with a bar and re-use them somewhere else...

You could even glue them in if you wanted them to be deffo permanent!

Regards, Mel.

 

[Penguin]

I've looked at those before, but they're pricey! 

Looking for something cheaper than a concrete screw and hanger to abandon at the top of blind avens...

Edit: i see there are M6 versions of those Excaliber eyebolts, anybody got a cheap source for those? 

M8s aren't too badly priced, but so many hardware shops in the UK sting ye for postage to NI... 

 

[GT]

We did some pull tests on bolts in slate recently. It was just the start of a longer term project and life has got in the way a bit regarding writhing up the results.

Certainly not conclusive but we did test 2 M8 B & Q type rawlbolts amongst a large variety of others, and these where some of the only 2 types that failed during the tests (the other being a Spit rock screw).

We pulled the bolts up to 20Kn but the raw bolts did start to slip and show signs of deformation around 10-11Kn

 

[Les W]

I've looked at those before, but they're pricey! 

Looking for something cheaper than a concrete screw and hanger to abandon at the top of blind avens...

If you're abandoning them after one or two abseils then  surely almost anything will do. No real shock loading and so long as they are strong enough to support your weight then all should be OK  :-\
If in doubt then use two...

We used to be (relatively) happy to hang off of M8 spits... 

 

[paul]

We used to be (relatively) happy to hang off of M8 spits... 

And in France spits that aren't even completely inserted or can be pulled out with one hand, even nowadays...