CaveClimbs

[epik]

Ok so following on from my bizarre "tightest passages in UK" thread i have another even more bizarre question for all you good folk at UKCaving.com

Any suggestions for climbs underground? Any patch of rock underground that may be climbable is what i want! So far the list is;

1) 20ft in Swildons (done, easy as the trademans exit goatchurch)
2) 40ft in Swildons (done and again easy but slightly higher)
3) Geology Pot in Giants (to try)
4) Garlands Pot in Giants(to try)
5) Entrance to Manor Farm (tried with rope)
6) Aven in Rod's Pot (to try)

Don't mind if you think they are too hard to climb just need high rock suggestions (mendip is good as im there at new year so can try them then)!

p.s. Before anyone gets all protective i dont use ropes or protection so not going to damage the rock!

 

[graham]

Ok so following on from my bizarre "tightest passages in UK" thread i have another even more bizarre question for all you good folk at UKCaving.com

Any suggestions for climbs underground? Any patch of rock underground that may be climbable is what i want! So far the list is;

1) 20ft in Swildons (done, easy as the trademans exit goatchurch)
2) 40ft in Swildons (done and again easy but slightly higher)
3) Geology Pot in Giants (to try)
4) Garlands Pot in Giants(to try)
5) Entrance to Manor Farm (tried with rope)
6) Aven in Rod's Pot (to try)

Don't mind if you think they are too hard to climb just need high rock suggestions (mendip is good as im there at new year so can try them then)!

p.s. Before anyone gets all protective i dont use ropes or protection so not going to damage the rock!

Wouldn't worry if you did damage the rock at the Manor Farm entrance as the shaft is completely artificial anyway. However, when it was still being dug, mate of mine freeclimbed it carrying the kango hammer that was used to drill the shotholes.

 

[bubba]

3) Geology Pot in Giants (to try)

Ha ha, good luck

4) Garlands Pot in Giants(to try)

quite easy apparantly.

There's a de-bolted E5 in Eldon Hole too.

 

[epik]

Wouldn't worry if you did damage the rock at the Manor Farm entrance as the shaft is completely artificial anyway. However, when it was still being dug, mate of mine freeclimbed it carrying the kango hammer that was used to drill the shotholes.

I know but some people are bound to say climbing underground is wrong so just thought i'd pre-emt it! Think i may well do the manor farm entrance now you have said that at new year. Still is a long way to fall atleast rescue would be easy!

 

[epik]

3) Geology Pot in Giants (to try)

Ha ha, good luck

4) Garlands Pot in Giants(to try)

quite easy apparantly.

There's a de-bolted E5 in Eldon Hole too.

Are you suggesting Geology will be hard? I can solo english 6b above ground (obviously not in boots on wet limestone) so you reckon its pretty blank?

E5 in Eldon Hole sounds promising though E5 would be top of my grade above ground so underground may prove too hard!

 

[bubba]

How can E5 be your top lead grade if you can solo 6b?

Soloing 6b is a rather bold statement to make as it implies you are consistent at that grade - how about "End of the Affair" for example

But anyway, I suspect that Geology would be quite hard - for a start it's wet, and it's mildly overhanging and quite blank. That said, I've never looked at it with a climbers eye so to speak.

How about the FFA of Titan? That should keep you busy for a while!

 

[Stu]

Garlands is definitely climbable on the right hand side, as one looks into the pot i.e. direction of flow.

 

[epik]

How can E5 be your top lead grade if you can solo 6b?

Easy, i've lead E5 6b and i've also soloed a few E2 6b's! you get climbs of 6b from E2 upto about E8 but there is a large difference between them all even if the grade doesn't suggest so! There is a difference between doing 6b 20ft off the deck and doing 6b on EOTA and falling 60ft to your death!

Think Titan would be a challenge maybe put it on the dream list including Gaping Ghyll Entrance!

 

[epik]

Garlands is definitely climbable on the right hand side, as one looks into the pot i.e. direction of flow.

Definetely on the list then although sounds as if Geology is gonna be too hard possibly. I've only ever looked down Geology (as didnt have ropes or a ladder) so was impossible to say!

 

[bubba]

There is a difference between doing 6b 20ft off the deck and doing 6b on EOTA and falling 60ft to your death!

Exactly, which is why I'm questioning your claim, because it implies consistency

Anyway, I've often said some of the best rock left is down caves, though I can't see all the climbers and boulderers suddenly heading underground.

I think Simon Nadin did another E4 somewhere years ago but I've completely forgotten where.

There's the old aid route through the roof of Peak Cavern to be freed as well - looks kinda sustained....

 

[epik]

There is a difference between doing 6b 20ft off the deck and doing 6b on EOTA and falling 60ft to your death!

Exactly, which is why I'm questioning your claim, because it implies consistency

Anyway, I've often said some of the best rock left is down caves, though I can't see all the climbers and boulderers suddenly heading underground.

I think Simon Nadin did another E4 somewhere years ago but I've completely forgotten where.

There's the old aid route through the roof of Peak Cavern to be freed as well - looks kinda sustained....

This year i'd settle for consistant any grade In the past i've been consistant at onsight 6a be that short with bouldermats or higher on lead! Happy?

I think there is alot of good rock climbs to be had underground but like you say not for the masses but who knows maybe one day..........

Cheers for the other suggestions (will ask about the E4 and never done peak yet so will have to wait to see that pleasure)!

 

[Armchair]

Have you thought about bothering the innocent folk of some other sport with your inadequacies? Caving really doesn't need this.

 

[Brains]

Seem to remember that the route up to Lyle Caverns in Lost Johns was found by freeclimbing, runour had it of an on site HVS solo in wellies, but i stand to be corrected. Also, I am sure GG main shaft has been climbed more than once but aid may have been used - apologies to whoever if it was free! Finally, how about freeing the Bat or the Ball in Dove Holes, Dovedale, and has Kyrie Elesion had a free ascent yet? Failing that lot, just try any pitch you come to!

 

[mudmonkey]

GG Main shaft has been done.

 

[epik]

Have you thought about bothering the innocent folk of some other sport with your inadequacies? Caving really doesn't need this.

Just out of interest need what?

To all other posters, cheers, once again some good suggestions to try so keep them coming!

GG Mainshaft looks an awesome climb (nice link)!

 

[hoehlenforscher]

...going back a few years now

Swildons 20 was pretty easy and Manor farm entrance was Ok but a long way if you slipped. Never bothered with the ladder coming out of P8, free climb to the left. The tight pitch in Thrupe lane swallet I found easier to free climb than SRt. Tried Garlands a few times but is really not that easy. Very commiting near the top and never quite had the balls. Many of the pitches in Penyghent pot are free climbable. Pantmawr pot could be a goer but would need to be roped up. But its all academic as I approach 40, these are things I was doing half a lifetime ago.

Hardest cave climb I have done recently. The short drop at the start of Edwards shortcut, coming out. Only about 10 feet but so so slick its crazy.

 

[bubba]

Just to note, you'd have to be nuts to solo anything hard in deep caves just from the point of view of if you bust a leg and need a rescue.

 

[cucc Paul]

Ya that hurts a lot :roll:

 

[tubby two]

GG main is HVS A2 for mortals, but its a case of having friends to divert the stream for you. Sell gill can all be freeclimbed at an overall E1 with no water problems. never done it though!
main pitch in bar pot would go, i've done most of it with just a chest jammer on the rope.
What would be the problem of climbing trad style in caves anyway? i can't really see that placing gear is any worse than the fact we riddle them with p-hangers? It's not going to do much damage to the rock (unless you take to shimmying up stal!?!). It seems more sensible than soloing- a broken leg underground is way more serious than on the surface, which isn't too much fun anyway!

tt.

 

[epik]

What would be the problem of climbing trad style in caves anyway? i can't really see that placing gear is any worse than the fact we riddle them with p-hangers?

Well i would say trad climbing underground isn't really a problem but i thought if i mentioned climbing underground someone would critise me for damaging "the delicate cave environment" or something so seems easier to just solo them and avoid any arguements!

That said seems that quite a few underground trad climbs already exist so guess its not much of a problem and as you say better than a broken leg underground!