Climbers' summary of obsolescence

[mikem]

From Paul Smith (Rock and Water Adventures)

Back in 2017, I released a 'Summary of Manufacturers' stated maximum life for obsolescence of Recreational Climbing Equipment'. This document was originally intend for use in the UK to challenge various 'rules of thumb' that I heard being quoted as fact. The document ended up being shared widely all around the world, with versions being translated (and adjusted to cover local PPE Laws) into a range of different languages including Latvian and Korean.
6 years on, I still hear the same 'rules of thumb' and most of them are still incorrect. When compiling this update I wasn't expecting as much change in the guidance as I have found. A number of manufacturers have adjusted their maximum lifespan and the spread of the maximum lifespans has now become much smaller.
You can read the second edition of my summary here:

2023 Max life for obsolescence of climbing equipment 2nd Edition

The updated 2nd edition of the 'Summary of Manufacturer's stated maximum life for obsolescence of recreational climbing equipment.'

issuu.com

 

[Bob Mehew]

An interesting read, just a pity one can't save it to one's own PC. One point I found interesting was the link to an HSE web page and implications for clubs and their gear.

 

[IanWalker]

Thanks very useful

 

[mikem]

Paul also pointed me towards how guidance has changed since 2004 (should still stick to dates that come with item):

Lifetime of PPE | SingingRock.cz

www.singingrock.com

 

[snebbit]

I feel a bit less bitter about having to replace my new model Stop after only 2 years after reading that, given it gets out twice a week. Seems like 50p per trip for a descender might be the going rate...

 

[pwhole]

Is it damaged or worn out though?

 

[snebbit]

Is it damaged or worn out though?

Worn out (visually - pizza slicer rims beginning), and feels like it's been going much quicker on ropes recently (including a couple of times where it's been running through real fast without having to touch the handle, which hasn't been an issue before). I might be being overly cautious but there's enough of a change to spook me into replacing proactively in this case. I do still like the new Stop though, not trying to put anyone off it, but I'll be interested to see how anyone else's gets on lifespan-wise