Rigging Spanners
- Thread starter Pitlamp
- Start date
Pitlamp
Well-known member
I'll not criticise your method rsch; thanks for making the effort to post the image.
You have a good point Les. At least one of my caving spanners is double open-ended; one end fits 8 mm bolts and the other fits the main harness Maillon. (Yes I know that various SRT items can also be used as makeshift spanners to release a jammed big D Maillon.) I just tie the string to the shaft of this spanner and it seems to work OK. I suppose I prefer an open ended 13 mm spanner (for 8 mm bolts) rather than a 13 mm ring spanner because it works on everything - ring hangers included.
I apologise for my participation in the downfall of this topic! Paul's idea of splitting it does make lots of sense.
You have a good point Les. At least one of my caving spanners is double open-ended; one end fits 8 mm bolts and the other fits the main harness Maillon. (Yes I know that various SRT items can also be used as makeshift spanners to release a jammed big D Maillon.) I just tie the string to the shaft of this spanner and it seems to work OK. I suppose I prefer an open ended 13 mm spanner (for 8 mm bolts) rather than a 13 mm ring spanner because it works on everything - ring hangers included.
I apologise for my participation in the downfall of this topic! Paul's idea of splitting it does make lots of sense.
Rob
Well-known member
This is surely best of both worlds:
We used them in Crete when rigging with screw-in multimonti bolts and found them ideal. So quick and very tough.
As for attaching, 3mm cord around the main shaft to make a loop, taped on with electrical tape, then bungy between loop and snoopy loop on wrist.
We used them in Crete when rigging with screw-in multimonti bolts and found them ideal. So quick and very tough.
As for attaching, 3mm cord around the main shaft to make a loop, taped on with electrical tape, then bungy between loop and snoopy loop on wrist.
I think what Rob and potholer describe is similar to what I have at present:
Elastic cord to go over arm if needs be, or maillon to clip into (had this lying around spare for years until I finally found a use for it!) then bog standard accessory cord to the middle of flexi-ratchet spanner, tied and then taped with electrical tape. Might not be the best method or tidiest setup but it does the job. (Thinking about it, could probably do with longer cord and a knot in the middle with a loop to clip into)
Elastic cord to go over arm if needs be, or maillon to clip into (had this lying around spare for years until I finally found a use for it!) then bog standard accessory cord to the middle of flexi-ratchet spanner, tied and then taped with electrical tape. Might not be the best method or tidiest setup but it does the job. (Thinking about it, could probably do with longer cord and a knot in the middle with a loop to clip into)
cavermark
New member
I find bungy good to limit tangles and allows either hand to be used from arm attachment loop.
A hole can be drilled in the shaft of the spanner for attachment loop, to allow ring end to be open.
Been promising myself a ratchet spanner - 13mm is the size to tighten a Merc vito van handbrake cable too!
A hole can be drilled in the shaft of the spanner for attachment loop, to allow ring end to be open.
Been promising myself a ratchet spanner - 13mm is the size to tighten a Merc vito van handbrake cable too!
jarvist
New member
I have a fairly tight wrist loop of bungee, onto which my spanner is tied by a 45cm length of 2mm accessory cord. I can use the closed end on bolts just fine, the bit of cord actually helps keep it in place. It mostly lives in my Meander pocket with the cord looped from head-to-tail (the knot through the ring end gives just enough purchase to loop over). When I'm not immediate using it, I loop the cord around my wrist, then poke the spanner through a twist in the bungee, takes two seconds and is more than secure enough for drilling the next bolt / prussicing to the next rebelay.
cap n chris
Well-known member
Here's my dual ended M8 & M10 spanner; a gift from a Spanish caving friend. 
Joel Corrigan
New member
Can't wait for the next exciting thread on here: could it be "Caving Underpants" by any chance??
Er, for what it's worth fancy torque wrenches are all very well but I don't think people should forget the need for an open-ended spanner to deal with maillons. And surely the only reason to have string on your spanner is so that you can turn it into a sketchy prussick loop or to cut through your abseil rope when you least expect it?! It's gotta be bungee every time for me as in the real world the hanger isn't going to be directly in front of your face & cord isn't known for it's elastic qualities....
Er, for what it's worth fancy torque wrenches are all very well but I don't think people should forget the need for an open-ended spanner to deal with maillons. And surely the only reason to have string on your spanner is so that you can turn it into a sketchy prussick loop or to cut through your abseil rope when you least expect it?! It's gotta be bungee every time for me as in the real world the hanger isn't going to be directly in front of your face & cord isn't known for it's elastic qualities....
Duncan
Member
My preferred setup is a shortened ring spanner on a very short bungy cord with a loop round my right wrist - the cord is just long enough that the spanner can hang down into a potition where it can be gripped by my right hand. When not in use the spanner sits inside the elasticated cuff of my sleeve. If I can't reach the bolt with my right hand, I simply slip the spanner onto my left wrist, but I seldom seem to need to do this.
This setup is extremely compact and lightweight, and has essentially no tendency to catch on things, fall off, or get tangled up.
Duncan.
This setup is extremely compact and lightweight, and has essentially no tendency to catch on things, fall off, or get tangled up.
Duncan.
jarvist
New member
Joel Corrigan said:
However, I can guarantee that any hanger you'll ever tighten will be within 20cm of a wrist as you do it... :
Seriously though, I got a lot more happy with my spanner set up once I stopped having it on my upper arm, and lost 50% of the bulk of the material.
hrock
New member
i have a flexi head short ratcheting ring spanner open at the other end. a bit like dunc's picture but i think that is way too long and the ones with out flexi heads like rob's one are very anoying as nearly always the rock gets in the way or you gloves catch the swich and turn it to back wards.
then i tie a short bit of string round the middle with a barrle knot and put a small loop in the other end only about 1 inch away so i can clip it to a crab on my gear loop.
when you use it if you dont let go of it you dont drop it. not having meters of string means that your dont get tagled up you can use it in both hands at full strech. just dont lend it to any one elce as they will drop it (but if i am bolting then i do but a spare cheapo spanner in the darren drum with a spare drill bit etc.
you can get things that are like a though bolt but insted of thred sticking out there is a hole that might save you even taking a spanner to move the bolders?
i can only find them in 6mm hole witch i am guessing is a bit weedy but you might find bigger.
then i tie a short bit of string round the middle with a barrle knot and put a small loop in the other end only about 1 inch away so i can clip it to a crab on my gear loop.
when you use it if you dont let go of it you dont drop it. not having meters of string means that your dont get tagled up you can use it in both hands at full strech. just dont lend it to any one elce as they will drop it (but if i am bolting then i do but a spare cheapo spanner in the darren drum with a spare drill bit etc.
you can get things that are like a though bolt but insted of thred sticking out there is a hole that might save you even taking a spanner to move the bolders?
i can only find them in 6mm hole witch i am guessing is a bit weedy but you might find bigger.
hrock
New member
or even
http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?fType=Fasteners&MainCategoryID=9&ProductCategoryID=248&PageID=2
as thinking about it you will be hand drilling them under water i would guess and this should fit in a spit ok for the sake of pulling a bolder
http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?fType=Fasteners&MainCategoryID=9&ProductCategoryID=248&PageID=2
as thinking about it you will be hand drilling them under water i would guess and this should fit in a spit ok for the sake of pulling a bolder
Joel Corrigan
New member
jarvist said:Joel Corrigan said:
However, I can guarantee that any hanger you'll ever tighten will be within 20cm of a wrist as you do it... :
"Of a wrist": correct. But which one? With these short cords that people are talking about you wouldn't be able to reach the bolt that's off on the other side without transferring it to the other arm and that way madness lies..... Caves don't always play the game by allowing you to place bolts in textbook locations so we have to be able to reach into daft positions to be able to drill & fix. If you're just tightening the occasional bolt then anything will suffice but if you're dropping a big pitch series or climbing avens then I believe that a longer bungee still rules. And I'm a very open-minded chap (!) but I'm not convinced that having the spanner glued to one hand is of much use in the real world unless you've got Go-Go-Gadget Telescopic Arms!!!
jarvist
New member
Joel Corrigan said:
Seemed fine to solo derig a 550m pitch series in the summer, removing 120-150 plates & maillons as I went. Thinking back, I think it was OK at rigging the majority of said pitch series a few weeks previously.
I like the fact that if I choose to drop it (after removing the plate), it ends up at a sensible height, rather than wrapped around stuff below me. Transferring hands takes seconds, though I honestly didn't have to often do it. Sometimes I reach across with both hands + tighten with the other, I quite often do this anyway, putting a steadying hand against the rock near the plate as a undo it (or lifting the rope and maillon to take weight off it). Of course, if you're putting in a plate, you're holding the plate with the other hand until you get the screw thread started anyway.
