What is c-rigging?

[ianball11]

What is c-rigging?

aaa, bugger meant to be a post on the Petzl Stop long drop thread.  I wondered why it required a subject, logged out mid post, (slow typer)

People in charge please could you delete this thread?

 

[Beardy]

it is a way of rigging a stop or bobbin only using half of the device so the rope forms a C
occasionally used on really fat ropes

Beardy

 

[Alex]

Never used it myself but I would guess the clue is in the name lol.

 

[ianball11]

You guys are fast!

 

[MarkS]

Kong include it in their instruction manuals for thicker ropes:

 

[Cave_Troll]

hopefully they recommend closing the side plate before use !

 

[ChrisJC]

Surely that makes a 'Stop' a 'Go' ??  You might as well use a Figure 8.

Chris.

 

[Joe90]

It doesnt really make it a 'go' as the cam still works and Will hold you on most ropes if you run the rope over the top bar of the stop When abseiling you still get good friction and for use in hauling stuff it makes life a lot easyer to pull through.

 

[Joe90]

There was grammar in that but my phone didnt put It in for some reason! Take a deep breath and read on.

 

[ianball11]

In the examples discussed elsewhere it does disable the autolock on a stop.

The autolock does work in a reduced rope path where the top bobbin isn't involved.  I use this for lifelining.

 

[Joe90]

Oh my mistake. Got me wires and ideas crossed there. I take it all back. Oops

 

[Andy Sparrow]

hopefully they recommend closing the side plate before use !

A braking karabiner would also help.

 

[global_s]

Never used a stop like that (or had to), but why would you need a breaking krab if you're trying reduce friction?

 

[Mike Hopley]

Kong include it in their instruction manuals for thicker ropes:

That's an interesting variation that I hadn't seen before. It will cause the sideplate to wear (someone on my recent expedition did something similar, and wore a huge hole in her Stop).

C-rigging as I know it is illustrated in Alpine Caving Techniques. The rope passes under the lower bobbin from right to left, then over the upper bobbin from left to right, creating a C or 0 shape.

Never used a stop like that (or had to), but why would you need a breaking krab if you're trying reduce friction?

Because a braking krab provides much better control. You will speed up towards the bottom of the rope!

 

[global_s]

Because a braking krab provides much better control. You will speed up towards the bottom of the rope!

Thank you 

 

[badger]

surley we should be using the term " friction karibiner" as the word braking to some people might suggest to them the karibiner is broken.

 

[Alex]

No cause that would be "a broken crab" or would be used in a different context such as "the rope is breaking my crab". The word is context sensitvie.

Things must be bad, I am commenting on gramma!!!

 

[crickleymal]

surley we should be using the term " friction karibiner" as the word braking to some people might suggest to them the karibiner is broken.

Only if you're semi literate.

 

[Bratchley]

Late reply, but...

I've used a bobbin in 'C' a few times on some rather big drops with thick ropes (~11mm, frozen/muddy/very stiff) as it is the only way to descend. The rope entered the bobbin at the bottom through and away from me, up into the top towards me and then left the top of the bobbin towards me and down to the right through the braking krab (if you can imagine that?).

It's incredibly convenient, but contrary to what Kong have done above, Petzl seem to not recommend it. I found out why after a while as the rub on the side plate of the bobbin is very significant (thick muddy gritty rope) and it becomes rather razor like (it felt like a knife edge in the shape of a wide hook knife). I'm not sure of the integrity of the side plate however it wreaked hell on the sheath.

Josh

 

[mikem]

This recommends using the C-rig to reduce friction & disable the autolock:
http://www.cavediggers.com/vertical/6DESCENT.pdf

Mike