pwhole
Well-known member
For me the strength of the fixings isn't the issue, but the permanence of the throughbolts. As they stress the rock when installed, that stress can never be removed again, and so that area can't realistically be used again either. Screws don't stress it, and I've even re-used a clean screwhole a year later with a different screw with no issues. Once the final route has been determined, then throughbolts are fine for installation, but it seems daft to write off whole sections of rock (and the resultant dangerous rusty stubs) just for the ease of hammering them in, especially if bolting downwards. There are probably twenty or so screws still in the shaft at Longcliffe from all the various routes we've rigged, but they're all fine, none have rusted, and they can be removed eventually with no damage to the cave. Apart from one throughbolt that I didn't install. And now it's there for ever - in the wrong place! I used stainless throughbolts to hang a water-barrel from as that's essentially a permanent feature for now, but they can be incorporated into a rope route at some point if it ever comes out.
I have done bolt-climbs with screws, and whilst the distance reached might not be quite so great as a with a throughbolt, it still works. Cleaning the holes out first is essential though, and that can also be a bit trickier going upwards, but I find a long bit of flexible 7mm hose is great for blowing it out.
I have done bolt-climbs with screws, and whilst the distance reached might not be quite so great as a with a throughbolt, it still works. Cleaning the holes out first is essential though, and that can also be a bit trickier going upwards, but I find a long bit of flexible 7mm hose is great for blowing it out.