shotlighter
Active member
Didn't Johny Dawes have a go at GG in the 80's? - or some one of similar ilk.
Climbing Avens
- Thread starter Pipster
- Start date
francis
New member
I started making mine yesterday 
I'm using an old aluminium bike frame (not double butted). I have orderred some crabs at work, an OK to use at the bottom (I might use 2 MR's instead, one from each side) and an Owall to use in the middle (I don't want the screwgate getting in the way). Hopefully they will arrive today so that I can finish it A friend of mine has got some rungs for making rope ladders that I can get cheap off him.
Francis
I'm using an old aluminium bike frame (not double butted). I have orderred some crabs at work, an OK to use at the bottom (I might use 2 MR's instead, one from each side) and an Owall to use in the middle (I don't want the screwgate getting in the way). Hopefully they will arrive today so that I can finish it A friend of mine has got some rungs for making rope ladders that I can get cheap off him.
Francis
gus horsley
New member
AndyF said:
I think you'll find there's loads, especially in Yorkshire. One that comes to mind is Hensler's High Aven in GG which, as far as I know, hasn't been climbed, although someone will probably put me right on that one. It's probably over 200ft high and the problem with avens is, after all that effort, will there be anything at the top? In my experience, not very often.
whitelackington
New member
None of the "new" avens in Upper Flood Swallet
have yet been climbed
have yet been climbed
francis
New member
One of the methods that has been mentioned on one of the Norwegian forums is using skyhooks for progression instead of bolts, and if the rockface is totally flat then drill 5mm holes for the skyhooks. In the method described then bolts are only used for protection ever so often.
Have any of you tried this method? I personally think it sounds a LOT more scary than using a stick up/bolting platform.
Francis
Have any of you tried this method? I personally think it sounds a LOT more scary than using a stick up/bolting platform.
Francis
francis said:Finished!
Francis
If this isn't a joke, I strongly recommend that you test this above ground - and only a short distance above ground, at that; you've drilled a big hole through a thin-walled tube at a highly-stressed area.
gus horsley
New member
Bob G said:
Shows how out of touch I am....
D
Dep
Guest
Bob G said:francis said:Finished!
Francis
If this isn't a joke, I strongly recommend that you test this above ground - and only a short distance above ground, at that; you've drilled a big hole through a thin-walled tube at a highly-stressed area.
Hmmm... I was thinking that.
Hold the tube by each end, put your knee against the pole by the middle krab/hole and apply force.
Bet it folds up!
bicycle frame tube is not that strong - it's only designed to take load longitudinally - not bending forces, and with that big hole drilled through the middle you have sigificantly weakened it to the point where it is no longer a tube at that point.
As Bob says test this at ground-level first with a big heavy person.
francis said:One of the methods that has been mentioned on one of the Norwegian forums is using skyhooks for progression instead of bolts, and if the rockface is totally flat then drill 5mm holes for the skyhooks. In the method described then bolts are only used for protection ever so often.
Have any of you tried this method? I personally think it sounds a LOT more scary than using a stick up/bolting platform.
Francis
Hi Francis,
Yes, this does work. Place a good bolt every 3 metres or so and it's not so scary. Major advantage is that you don't have to drill the holes very deep so it helps conserve drill power. You need to angle the holes slightly downwards as you drill them. You also need a special 'pointy-shaped' (don't know the correct technical name) skyhook - check out some of the American on-line gear stores. As with all skyhooks, it only works correctly (and safely) with a downward pull so make sure you keep your weight on the etriers and try to avoid outward movement.
Hope this of some help.
francis
New member
Bob G said:francis said:Finished!
Francis
If this isn't a joke, I strongly recommend that you test this above ground - and only a short distance above ground, at that; you've drilled a big hole through a thin-walled tube at a highly-stressed area.
It's not a joke at all. I have tried the knee bending, but not with all my force. I will test it some more before using it, but I think it will hold
If it breaks I will find another piece of alumuminium to use instead. Preferrably something rectangular, as that will allow for smaller holes. The reason I chose a bike frame was that I work in a sportsshop and that I got it free there.Francis
francis
New member
NigR said:francis said:One of the methods that has been mentioned on one of the Norwegian forums is using skyhooks for progression instead of bolts, and if the rockface is totally flat then drill 5mm holes for the skyhooks. In the method described then bolts are only used for protection ever so often.
Have any of you tried this method? I personally think it sounds a LOT more scary than using a stick up/bolting platform.
Francis
Hi Francis,
Yes, this does work. Place a good bolt every 3 metres or so and it's not so scary. Major advantage is that you don't have to drill the holes very deep so it helps conserve drill power. You need to angle the holes slightly downwards as you drill them. You also need a special 'pointy-shaped' (don't know the correct technical name) skyhook - check out some of the American on-line gear stores. As with all skyhooks, it only works correctly (and safely) with a downward pull so make sure you keep your weight on the etriers and try to avoid outward movement.
Hope this of some help.
Thanks!
ian mckenzie
New member
Think I posted this before: http://folk.uio.no/marekv/CC05/CC05-lores.pdf
