Expedition training

mikem

Well-known member
Sounds like a recipe for disaster, but slightly better than version one - just don't try it with an ID as you'll probably end up permanently suspended!
 

thehungrytroglobite

Well-known member
For those interested, I thought I would update on how my training is going.

Strengths: I am doing *some* training and although I haven't noticed much difference in my physical fitness I'm sure it must be helping a little bit. Mentally, I feel a lot more prepared and the training is definitely helping me feel emotionally 'ready'.

Weaknesses: It's very hard to fit any kind of training in around my extremely busy schedule. I work a full time job 9-5, write articles in my free time and have several ongoing grant applications, volunteer for many groups on a regular basis (CNCC, Descent, Yorkshire Dales National Park, UK Youth for Nature, right to roam... the list goes on), and also have a jam-packed social life. All meaning that finding time to exercise is pretty hard!

I've found that because of this, flexibility is key and a rigid training schedule won't work. It's important for me to fit in what I can, where I can and also to listen to my body & rest when I need to. I'll try my best to train where I can but I won't force myself to if I'm really not feeling it.

Here's an example 'week':
Saturday: hard caving trip (ie. Black book trip) where I try to rig most of it
Sunday: more chilled out caving trip and other skills training like bolting, rescue, etc
Monday: rest day / a gentle walk
Tuesday: rope treadmill, around 200m - 300m of prusiking depending on how energised I'm feeling
Wednesday: fell run
Thursday: valley run & wild swim
Friday: fell walk, scramble, or similar
Then back to weekend caving again. I would like to do evening caving trips, and most people say I should be doing them whilst living in the Dales, but unfortunately it's quite hard to find a completely free evening.

I've found any kind of 'strength' training or typical work out stuff like press ups, sit ups etc impossible because I find them incredibly boring and can't motivate myself to do them. I've always hated gyms and I've found the Great Outdoors to be the only gym I can tolerate. Doing things I love makes training a lot easier, and because every day is different I don't get bored :) The rope treadmill is obviously inside but we blast some good tunes to make it more tolerable and its a good one for rainy days.

Since my last post I've learnt to bolt, and have come on leaps & bounds with my rigging. I was so terrified of rigging before and didn't believe that I would ever be able to do it, but I'm now comfortable swinging about on a rope above a big drop, looking for innovative solutions to rigging problems, and more confident in my own ability.

So I've actually found the 'psychological' aspect of expedition training to be far more valuable than physical training.

Bit of a ramble, and all of this 'training' is very personal to me, but thought I'd post my findings in case it is useful to anyone else!
 

Fjell

Well-known member
Speed of prussiking isn’t very important, being able to do it for a very long time is the thing, usually carrying a load. I think 100m an hour is a reasonable climb speed over many hours. By which I mean total time, so 10 hours from 1000m. Think more Alpine walking speed, you function to a heart rate, not a speed. High heart rate is wearing. It’s dogged as does it.

This is where you get found out for having a bad rig or technique. Unless you have a real problem with upper body strength then it sounds like you will be as fit as you need to be now. Everyone gets fitter actually doing it. You need to be using your legs properly.

There are countless threads on here about gear, but I would as a minimum be using a Pantin and there is a reason why people swear by the Garma chest harness for this sort of thing. I would also use an MTDE sit harness, but that is prob less important. Descenders and ascenders don’t matter beyond wear issues. I wouldn’t personally take the micro Petzl ascenders except one as a spare. Chromed carbon steel teeth ascenders will last longer.
 
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