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Simpson Chains

To chain or not to chain (that is the question)

  • In favour of chains being fitted to Simpson/Swinsto for pull through

    Votes: 103 90.4%
  • Not in favour of chains being fitted to Simpson/Swinto for pull through

    Votes: 11 9.6%

  • Total voters
    114
Do you (or anyone else) have pictures of the peak points?

For info, the 3 chains, seemingly at cost of £100 each, would be fitted at "Slit Pot and Swinsto Great Aven, the former being notorious for stuck ropes (and some stuck cavers)."
 
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Not trying to start an argument or passing judgement but a genuine question to learn - why would bits of old ropes be left at the pitch head? I’ve been through Simpson’s many times and never had a need to leave / use any added bits. I’ve climbed in the Alps where it’s good idea to back up or replace existing tat before abbing down a face but why does it help in a bolted cave where the rope runs directly through the bolts?
 
Not trying to start an argument or passing judgement but a genuine question to learn - why would bits of old ropes be left at the pitch head? I’ve been through Simpson’s many times and never had a need to leave / use any added bits. I’ve climbed in the Alps where it’s good idea to back up or replace existing tat before abbing down a face but why does it help in a bolted cave where the rope runs directly through the bolts?
If only we knew why people leave bits of tat and rusty maillons in P-hangers... It's one of life's mysteries.
 
It means less direct damage to the bolts (different materials may cause long term corrosion) and (mainly) you know you'll get your longer rope back...
 
Do you (or anyone else) have pictures of the peak points?

For info, the 3 chains, seemingly at cost of £100 each, would be fitted at "Slit Pot and Swinsto Great Aven, the former being notorious for stuck ropes (and some stuck cavers)."
0178642_raumer-belay-station_800.jpeg

They looked like a two sided version of this. But with a large maillon instead of a ring. And with maillons between the hangers and the chain. But this style of chain
 
Do you (or anyone else) have pictures of the peak points?

Here is an example of chains-and-ring installation in the Peak from the DCA fixed aid website.

I am guessing that it is intended to install something similar. But whether this matches the intention of the proposer I do not know, since there is no clear proposal for the community to consider.


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Thanks, they are fairly standard top out points for climbs - I only asked in case they had done something different
 
@Ian P please could you say whether people have asked for this, and how many?

Can you give an indication of how much of a problem the current arrangement is for pull-throughs? How many times has it caused a problem, for example?

In what sense is it notorious? As far as I can tell people have been doing pull-through trips down this cave for a long time, and largely managing.

I'm trying to get a feel for the context of the proposal and whether it's really necessary or would simply be convenient, or perhaps there are other reasons.

It seems like you have already installed two new anchors in one of the photos - did you do this with the chain in mind, or are they fine for a pull-through as they are?
 
Various reports on here between 2007 and 2012 (in 2013 they forgot to untie the end knot) - either people have got better at rigging it, are leaving tat or failing to mention losses! (I get the impression it's the middle of those & other people are having to remove it)
 
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Personally, for what it's worth, in what I suspect is getting on for fifty pull-throughs in the two systems I have never encountered a problem with ropes getting stuck. Having seen some practices in use, I suspect that it's technique that is to blame for a large majority of rope jams.

Having said that, many of the pull-throughs in France use chains, and I would certainly not object to them being more widely used here (there's one on Oliver Lloyd Aven, if I remember rightly). Whether it will solve the problem of bad technique is another matter.
 
Hopefully the chains will be placed further out than the tat points?
We get stuck rope threads on here with depressing regularity......
 
I’ve always assumed that the reason this wasn’t done in the past was just the cost? I can’t really see any other disadvantages to be honest.
This pretty much sums up my thoughts.

If it's an improvement (which it clearly is), it's non-permanent (so nobody can argue that it's damaging the cave), and there is money and a willing volunteer to do the work, what possible disadvantage is there?

I actually have some similar ideas in mind as a "pull-up" for some pitches in Mendip, that I'm worried will be lost if original exploration spits fail, either losing areas of the cave, or necessitating bolt climbing again. I expect that this would get BCA funding, so a volunteer with suitable experience is probably the main stumbling point...
 
I actually have some similar ideas in mind as a "pull-up" for some pitches in Mendip, that I'm worried will be lost if original exploration spits fail, either losing areas of the cave, or necessitating bolt climbing again. I expect that this would get BCA funding, so a volunteer with suitable experience is probably the main stumbling point...
The ladder dig in GB would be a prime candidate!
A pull-up would be much much nicer than the philistine approach of using a ladder as an etrier up a chain.
 
Another potential advantage of pulling through a single maillon or small ring linked by a chain would be to enable the use of a figure of eight descender block. This arrangement is widely used in canyoning pull throughs to allow easy lowering in a rescue situation without rope cutting. Essentially a tied off figure of eight descender acts like a carabiner block on the pull down side of the rope, and can be quickly released if the need arises.
 
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If it's an improvement (which it clearly is), it's non-permanent (so nobody can argue that it's damaging the cave), and there is money and a willing volunteer to do the work, what possible disadvantage is there?

It's not necessary

(how do you spell, unnecessary, un-necessary?)
 
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