PVC glue
- Thread starter JoshW
- Start date
royfellows
Well-known member
For what its worth I am now making a purpose journey to B and Q to get the Bostik stuff.
From the smell it appears to use a different formulation to what is usually, but it is certainly the best stuff I have used to date.
I use it for a lot of lamp accessories and making up battery cases etc, as well as PVC coated fabric, Oh yes, and also for underground kit.
Its says "Bostik PVC pipe adhesive" and is about ?8 for a large tub. Brush is a bit on the large side though.
From the smell it appears to use a different formulation to what is usually, but it is certainly the best stuff I have used to date.
I use it for a lot of lamp accessories and making up battery cases etc, as well as PVC coated fabric, Oh yes, and also for underground kit.
Its says "Bostik PVC pipe adhesive" and is about ?8 for a large tub. Brush is a bit on the large side though.
I'd be interested in your results for 'Solvent Cement' whose main use is for plastic pipes
As far as I knew this type of glue is solely for rigid material (pipes)
The quality glue (Bostik as mentioned above ??) for PVC non-rigid/flexible material is quite hard to find and expensive compared to the above. There is some cheap shite about which lasts for a trip then the patch peels off.
Whether there is much difference between the 2 types, in terms of longevity in use, would be interesting to know from someone who has used both types.
As far as I knew this type of glue is solely for rigid material (pipes)
The quality glue (Bostik as mentioned above ??) for PVC non-rigid/flexible material is quite hard to find and expensive compared to the above. There is some cheap shite about which lasts for a trip then the patch peels off.
Whether there is much difference between the 2 types, in terms of longevity in use, would be interesting to know from someone who has used both types.
andrewmcleod
Well-known member
I've used some fairly nasty two-part Bostik(?) boat adhesive (white gloopy stuff in a big tin and a small amount of liquid in a brown glass bottle) for Petzl caving bags - although those are TPU rather than PVC, but I think an equivalent product exists for PVC.
It's what you use to glue handles onto inflatable boats and seems pretty strong, although the chemicals are nasty (funky vapours) and mixing the right proportions is tricky.
Edit: seems you don't want to use the one I use (Bostik 2402) on flexible PVC, and I can't work out what the equivalent Bostik would be.
It's what you use to glue handles onto inflatable boats and seems pretty strong, although the chemicals are nasty (funky vapours) and mixing the right proportions is tricky.
Edit: seems you don't want to use the one I use (Bostik 2402) on flexible PVC, and I can't work out what the equivalent Bostik would be.
Roger W
Well-known member
I got a tube of some stuff called "Loctite Extreme Glue" from my local Morrisons. It's supposed to stick wood, ceramic, stone, glass, foam, rubber, metal, plastic and more" but - as usual - not suitable for PE, PP or PTFE.
I've used it to stick the metal hinges on my gateposts and to repair thin vinyl gloves. Seems to work OK (flexible), but don't know how it would do on your application.
It doesn't seem to work by solvent evaporation. But it does contain N-[3-[Trimethoxysilyl]propyl]ethylenediamine. So try and keep it off your skin.
I've used it to stick the metal hinges on my gateposts and to repair thin vinyl gloves. Seems to work OK (flexible), but don't know how it would do on your application.
It doesn't seem to work by solvent evaporation. But it does contain N-[3-[Trimethoxysilyl]propyl]ethylenediamine. So try and keep it off your skin.
ZombieCake
Well-known member
Bostik make a Soft Plastics glue. I think part number is BST80213. About ?3-4 a 20ml tube on eBay and even comes with a PVC patch! Works a bit like contact adhesive. I've used on light-ish duty stuff and seems OK, don't know how durable would be on extended wear items.
royfellows
Well-known member
should have added to my post.......
When joining flexible materials I coat both surfaces liberally, give it half a min, then compress them together with something heavy and leave. I have a block of steel, had it for years, use it for this and a mini anvil. We all have our ways.
Anyway, I find whatever used, this makes big difference to the join.
When joining flexible materials I coat both surfaces liberally, give it half a min, then compress them together with something heavy and leave. I have a block of steel, had it for years, use it for this and a mini anvil. We all have our ways.
Anyway, I find whatever used, this makes big difference to the join.
JoshW
Well-known member
royfellows said:
I've got a load of blocks of lead, presume they will do the job. Think I might need to do a bit of stitching before I go straight for the fix, as my suit has come apart at the rear seam. Time to finally order that speedy stitcher I've been wanting for a while!
braveduck
Active member
What ever glue you use make sure the glue covers right to the edge of the patch to avoid
an attempt to peel off. Also cover all glued areas with Polythene while they set ,this will
avoid your Lead blocks sticking to your suit which could slow you down a bit ,underground !
Also don't be tempted to clean the area with
Meths if you are using Supa Glue unless you let it dry for a long time .
I can only assume the fumes I created were CYANIDE !!!!!!!! :yucky:
an attempt to peel off. Also cover all glued areas with Polythene while they set ,this will
avoid your Lead blocks sticking to your suit which could slow you down a bit ,underground !
Also don't be tempted to clean the area with
Meths if you are using Supa Glue unless you let it dry for a long time .
I can only assume the fumes I created were CYANIDE !!!!!!!! :yucky:
Tseralo
Active member
Bit late but the new Meanders come with a tube of Pattex Chemopren Univerzal. I can only find it for sale in Slovakia but I can't imagine Pattex only sell it there. It seems to be a contact adhesive so im guessing it's their All-purpose contact adhesive in a different package.
Having used it it seems very similar to Evostick Impact which you can get in big pots from screwfix. Ive used it to glue drysuits back togeher with no leaks so a couple of bits of PVC especially if you rough then clean the surface should work well.
Having used it it seems very similar to Evostick Impact which you can get in big pots from screwfix. Ive used it to glue drysuits back togeher with no leaks so a couple of bits of PVC especially if you rough then clean the surface should work well.
jcarter5826
Member
I would recommend a PVC cement called HH-66. I?ve recently made a PVC vinyl ?bag? that is predominantly stitched together, but additional panels have been glued on for strength and to act as stiffening where the bag needed to hold its shape. I tested the cement on a few scrap sheets first. It?s virtually impossible to pull them apart. The PVC material tears before the bond breaks it?s that strong.
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jcarter5826
Member
HH-66 can be obtained here:
http://www.hh66.co.uk/
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http://www.hh66.co.uk/
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HH-66 looks great, but my word is it dear.
jcarter5826
Member
Its not cheap. I got the smallest tin. ?25. But would last ages and do tons of patch repairs.
Its a bag for a rebreather. Used tackle sack pvc material. Tough stuff. Pig to sew when going through 3 or 4 layers. I have an industrial machine that copes.
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Its a bag for a rebreather. Used tackle sack pvc material. Tough stuff. Pig to sew when going through 3 or 4 layers. I have an industrial machine that copes.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
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