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Over the Edge

Alex

Well-known member
I am tempted to use a simple for those long pitches, I just don't fancy re-learning how to absail. I would also have to go back to the conventional method of locking off rather than under the handle (from the back) and round the top like I do now on the stop. The Simple of course has no handle so it would be the bite through the breaking crab round the back and over the top, which seems to take alot longer and requires more rope to lock off which may not be possible on tight rigging.

Before anyone says the way I lock off is not a hard lock, I will say I have tested it many times the rope don't move, even on 8mm.
 

langcliffe

Well-known member
Mike Hopley said:
Amy makes some valid points about the Stop, and immediately gets told she's wrong. ;)

(3) Creeping, not stopping: she's right, depending on the rope. It's usually effective as a "safety brake", but sometimes not as a "convenience brake" (e.g. going hands-free as you clip in to a rebelay). There are other devices that do this better -- e.g. the SRTE Stop (bulky and heavy, though).

I  don't remember Amy being told she was wrong on this issue.
 

Mike Hopley

New member
langcliffe said:
I  don't remember Amy being told she was wrong on this issue.

Perhaps I misread. The overall tone, based on a quick scan, came across as "if you don't like a Stop, you just don't understand it."

Then again, the original post could be interpreted as, "if you like a Stop, you just don't understand a good rack"; so perhaps it's all even.
 

langcliffe

Well-known member
Mike Hopley said:
langcliffe said:
I  don't remember Amy being told she was wrong on this issue.

Perhaps I misread. The overall tone, based on a quick scan, came across as "if you don't like a Stop, you just don't understand it."

Then again, the original post could be interpreted as, "if you like a Stop, you just don't understand a good rack"; so perhaps it's all even.

You misunderstand me - I'm referring to the creep issue specifically, as quoted above.
 

Amy

New member
droid said:
Amy said:
Yeah 'tis why I say I'll stick with a micro in place of a stop. I have a dual hyperbar one, super easy to lock off (litterally two seconds) and prettymuch the size of a stop. I really do agree that one reason racks are not enjoyed over there is (no offence intented) the typical 5-bar petzl is a crappy rack. *I* wouldn't have fun on that thing LOL. If you don't see things like the BMS micro there....I can understand why with your rigging you tend to hate racks.

You are making some big assumptions there.

Racks are not hated over here. A significant minority of cavers use them, and used properly they are safe and convienient. Just like a Stop is.
And a 'crappy Petzl' (is it crappy because it's not American?) is far more suited to the average British caving situation than a monster 'bigger is better' American one. Which is why you don't see them this side of the pond.

Your comments don't ring true for British caving at all.
Well I was being slightly poetic with "hated". I know the majority of ya'all do not use racks because you don't like 'em for what you do which is fair enough.

Petzl rack is crappy because Petzl rack is crappy. It lacks a hyperbar, it lacks a half twist eye which is extremely helpful for J frames, it has too many bars in too short of a space
Petzl rack:
5 bars
11" frame (and remember J frames are measured to the tip of the eye, so useable length is shorter than this by at least an inch or two)
470grams
no hyperbar for easy lockoff and manouvers

Micro rack (the best/most versitile/easiest to use version: long frame dual hyperbar)
4 bars
490grams
10" frame (U frame the entire length is usuable, so full 10" usability here)
2 hyperbars, making lock offs and manouvers super easy (on a J-frame, a single hyperbar is sufficient but on a micro a second hyperbar is helpful because of it being a U frame)

You could of course get the shorter version not the long frame, and gain your few grams back, but you loose some versatility. Additionally, a micro will keep the device closer to you, and this closeness will aid in the rebelays and such manouvers whereas because of the J frame of a petzl it adds distance making these things more difficult. When I was using my frog system I trained in rebelays and all that jazz on my micro and it worked beautifully without much training neccesary. (My first rack was a micro...we definitly don't think "bigger is better", simply the very long drops we do *requires* bigger. And yes 600ft/183meters single pitch beats putting in rebelays to break it up  :tease: )

@ Mike:
(1) Difficult to control: okay, this was a fair cop. Use the rope, not the handle, to fine-tune your abseil.
- Yes indeed, fine tune is from the rope, the section I didn't realize was you don't tune it *at all* from the stop it's "on or off" "all or nothing" for the stop itself. I was using it as more of a 3-part "off/medium/fast" and fine tuning with rope. Some are saying here this is wrong and it is "on or off". =)

And no one here thinks Europeans are unsafe using bobbins/stops. Although we do laugh at the French when we see them having two stops as their entire SRT kit basically...our vision of the French is rappel on one stop, get to a rebelay, rig the second below it and play this flip-flop game to get down, and to climb out just using the stops as their ascenders. And this, we laugh at. But as far as I can tell, the UKians laugh at the French too so perhaps this is mutual ;)

SRT was invented here in TAG by members of our grotto nonetheless. So were racks. Original SRT was for our huge pits so it makes sense that as the new technique went abroad people adapted it to their own system of what they wanted. I was reading "Tales of Huntsville Caves" again the other day, a beautiful short book of the most known local caves and some of the history of the Huntsville grotto and caving here (this is the home of our National Speleological Society, after all!) written by William Varnedoe and Charles Lundquist, two of some of the biggest names in American caving and SRT. Really interesting and worth a read, it's super cheap to pick up too.

They write:
"The Huntsville Grotto developed many of the caving techniques used today. The geology of this area insures that about half of the nearby caves have vertical entrances. The evolution of vertical cave entry is a Grotto achievement. As mentioned in the story of Natural Well, Dr. Jones made his descent into the Well in 1927 using a 210 foot rope ladder, consisting of three 30-ft sections and two 60-ft sections. Dr Jones had commissioned an old sailor to construct these sections of rope ladder made with wooden rungs and one inch manila rope. He uses it to descend this and several pits in Alabama. After the Huntsville Grotto was formed, Dr Jones provided the then  old rope ladders for use by the members. During their early years of cave exploration, the authors indeed did use these massive ladders for pit descents.

Later, steel cable ladders with metal rungs replaced rope ladders in cave exploration. Still later, Bill Cuddington came to the Huntsville Grotto in the late 1960's. He taught his innovated single rope technique (SRT). This method used a body rappel to descend and prussic knots to climb vertical pitches on a single rope in lieu of the ladders and rope for belaying...

Huntsville is a city of engineers, and Grotto members rapidly devised improvements in both the equipment and the technique of using just a single rope. One of the first mechanical ascenders used on a rope was in Natural Well by Jack Allan. Many different rappel devices were tested, but Grotto member John Cole, assisted by John Patten, invented the ultimate rappel device. He developed the Rack in 1966.

The rack has become a world standard for long rappels. John refused to get a patent and has bequeathed its safety and ease to all. In fact, not only American cavers, but cavers around the world have changed over to single rope techniques following the lead of these pioneers. The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "


 

Amy

New member
ianball11 said:
Amy were you wearing a caving sit harness or a climbing harness? 
Rope Access harness. Suposidly built for maximum comfort as you could be sitting in it hours at a time, the version they had there often jammed my floating ribs and at times engaged my internal organs as it caught up underneath and put pressure on me in a bad way so I kinda hated it, but later I just went a size down and this seemed to mostly fix the issue because it came up from the front to my back at a better angle. As a belayer I wasn't in a harness all day anyway. I find my caving harness more comfortable though (probably because I tried out lots and found one that fit me well and was comfy for me, and for this, used the Rope Access harness they provided and I know there are a handful of different designs that are approved, this was simply they one they had. Defintly understood how for long periods working from such a harness it would be nice, there was a lot of back support and was more like sitting in a chair. Certainly not a caving harness though! haha)
 

langcliffe

Well-known member
Amy said:
The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "

So this is why you're qualified to be so definitive about the pros and cons of the Petzl stop after one use and no proper training. Fair enough.
 

graham

New member
Amy said:
The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "

Um, given that rappel, abseil, & prusik are all words in Yuropean non-English languages, I might have some doubts about this. I don't doubt that members of that grotto came up with a number of useful refinements, but "Father" implies something more, something I doubt is actually theirs.
 

Mike Hopley

New member
You misunderstand me - I'm referring to the creep issue specifically, as quoted above.

Ah okay -- see what you mean now.  :-[


Although we do laugh at the French when we see them having two stops as their entire SRT kit basically...our vision of the French is rappel on one stop, get to a rebelay, rig the second below it and play this flip-flop game to get down, and to climb out just using the stops as their ascenders.

Now that stereotype is new to me (although it is pretty much how you get past a rebelay for mid-rope rescue, using the victim's descender together with your own).

French system (what I use): just like the UK system, but preferring Simples to Stops, and the long cowstail takes the place of a "safety cord" link to the upper ascender.


The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT".

Speaking of the French, people like Pierre Chevalier and Andre Meozzi might have disputed that claim. ;) Not trying to take anything away from Huntsville, but credit where credit's due...

I believe modern SRT techniques evolved more-or-less independently in France and the US, at roughly the same time (late 1960's).


Some are saying here this is wrong and it is "on or off". =)

That is the prevailing opinion on using Stops; I agree, so does Alpine Caving Techniques, and so does Al Warild in Vertical. Some disagree, however, such as Andy Sparrow.


183meters single pitch beats putting in rebelays to break it up

Three 61-metre sections enable three cavers to be (comfortably!) climbing at once and remain in closer contact, rather than waiting for El Ropewalker Fantastico to finish zipping up 183 metres. ;) And of course, you may need those rebelays to protect thinner (lighter, nicer!) rope.
 

Amy

New member
Mike Hopley said:
183meters single pitch beats putting in rebelays to break it up

Three 61-metre sections enable three cavers to be (comfortably!) climbing at once, rather than waiting for El Ropewalker Fantastico to finish zipping up 183 metres. ;) And of course, you may need those rebelays to protect thinner (lighter, nicer!) rope.
Ahh you missunderstand here though...we will just triple climb the sucker!  :D

Huh that would be funny test...rig the same pitch American and Euro style with rebelays for three. Get three "best" Euro-climbers and three "best" American climbers. Race to the top! First team to get all three to the top wins!

langcliffe said:
Amy said:
The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "

So this is why you're qualified to be so definitive about the pros and cons of the Petzl stop after one use and no proper training. Fair enough.
I never said that. Please don't put words in my mouth! =)
 

langcliffe

Well-known member
graham said:
Amy said:
The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "

Um, given that rappel, abseil, & prusik are all words in Yuropean non-English languages, I might have some doubts about this. I don't doubt that members of that grotto came up with a number of useful refinements, but "Father" implies something more, something I doubt is actually theirs.

A quick Google ascertains that Jean Esteril Charlet, a Chamonix guide, developed the rapelling technique and abseiled of the Petit Dru in 1879, and that the prusik knot had been developed by 1931.

In his book 'Subterranean Climbers' Chevalier says that they used abseiling and prusiking techniques in the exploration of the Dent de Crolles system in November 1935.

I think that your claim that the Huntsville Grotto is the Father of SRT to be somewhat optimistic.
 

paull

New member
The first use of single rope technique with prusik and mechanical rope-ascenders (Henri Brenot's "monkeys", first used by Chevalier and Brenot in a cave in 1934) can be directly traced back to the exploration of the Dent de Crolles cave system.
American caver Bill Cuddington, known as "Vertical Bill" developed in US the single rope techniques (SRT) in the late 1950s

so The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably NOT The Father of SRT. more like the fathers son for introducing it to the states

lets give credit were credit is due
 

langcliffe

Well-known member
Amy said:
langcliffe said:
Amy said:
The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "

So this is why you're qualified to be so definitive about the pros and cons of the Petzl stop after one use and no proper training. Fair enough.
I never said that. Please don't put words in my mouth! =)

I apologise, Amy.

So what is your qualification that allows you to be so definitive about the pros and cons of the Petzl stop after one use and no proper training?
 

Mike Hopley

New member
Amy said:
Ahh you missunderstand here though...we will just triple climb the sucker!  :D

I should have guessed. There is no rigging problem that cannot be solved by the addition of more rope. ;) I guess this makes sense if you can rock up in your SUV to a massive entrance shaft, chuck down the rope down and go.

It doesn't work so well when you need to carry that rope up a mountain and then down a kilometre-deep cave.
 

Fulk

Well-known member
The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT".

Well, I don't know enough about it, but I was under the distinct impression that the French were working on climbing ropes with mechanical jamming devices in the years just after WW II . . . anybody know any better?

Errr, this point seems to have been covered already ? for some reason I missed some of the posts above. :-[
 

Brains

Well-known member
Huh that would be funny test...rig the same pitch American and Euro style with rebelays for three. Get three "best" Euro-climbers and three "best" American climbers. Race to the top! First team to get all three to the top wins!
How about climbing the three sub pitches with 3 on a rope as well? That would be a fairer test - 9 each way? Rub points and narrow bits awkward with 2 or more on the rope, which of course rebelaying avoids....
Me, I'd like to try some racks and other descendeurs out - I am sure there is a reasonable amount of variation in user experience. Until then I will stick with with stop as it does so much more than just slide doen a rope
 

Subpopulus Hibernia

Active member
In fact, not only American cavers, but cavers around the world have changed over to single rope techniques following the lead of these pioneers. The Huntsville Grotto is undeniably "The Father of SRT". "

Quite the opposite. The type of STR that Bill Cuddington developed in the southwestern USA is tailored very specifically to the type of cave that exist there, namely large surface accessible shafts. The european system was developed by a number of pioneering cavers, mainly in France and Switzerland. They required their SRT system to be as light and as versatile as possible since they had to carry all their gear far into caves to access complex pitches that rarely dropped purely vertically. While a group of cavers using European style STR would just as easily bottom a TAG shaft with with rebelays and 8mm rope as US cavers would with a single drop and 11mm rope, American cavers would find it very difficult to bottom a deep Alpine cave with their own system. It is the versatility and precision of the European System that it is the system de rigeur for bottoming all the deepest caves in the world, and it's widespread adoption throughout the world.

American SRT is frequently looked upon by us in Europe as being quite crude, because to be honest, it is. Flinging a big thick rope down a shaft and letting it rub off of every surface imaginable is no where near as neat as a well placed traverse line with a deviation carefully deflecting the rope round a rub point. American innovations in SRT are also mainly stuck in the US. If you look at the system developed by Cuddington, very little of it is used beyond the US. In fact the direction of traffic is in the other way. US cavers used to primarily use clamp-type ascenders, though now cammed, toothed ascenders like the Petzl ones are the ones used. Same goes for the frog system of ascending ropes. As others have pointed out the US is not the father of SRT, the two systems came of age at about the same time though the Alpine system has proved to be much more popular.
 

graham

New member
Interesting that the Brits on this thread have not claimed SRT as a British invention, but are happy to give precedence to the French.  :)

I don't know, but rather suspect that the use of SRT in the modern era by us Brits began with the first Ghar Parau expedition when they ran out of ladders & used every bit of rope they had to abseil down & reach the sump in 1971(?). I think the guys to reach the bottom were Pete Standing & Pete Kaye, but my memory may be wrong on that.
 

langcliffe

Well-known member
I doubt it, Graham, as Marbach's and Rocourt's 'Technique de la Speleologie Alpine' was published in 1973, and it documented more than a couple of years experience and technique development.
 

paul

Moderator
However, coming up with the idea of SRT, at least in the sense of using mechanical devices to prusik up a rope (abseiling using linked karabiners, etc had of course been around for longer) predates Bill Cuddington:

In the 1930s, as caving became increasingly popular in France, several clubs in the Alps made vertical cave exploration an outdoor sport. During WWII, such a team composed of Pierre Chevalier, Fernand Petzl, Charles Petit-Didier and others explored the Dent de Crolles cave system near Grenoble, France which became the deepest explored cave in the world (-658m) at that time. The lack of available equipment during the war forced Pierre Chevalier and the rest of the team to develop their own equipment, leading to technical innovation. The first use of single rope technique with prusik and mechanical rope-ascenders (Henri Brenot's "monkeys", first used by Chevalier and Brenot in a cave in 1934) can be directly traced back to the exploration of the Dent de Crolles cave system. American caver Bill Cuddington, known as "Vertical Bill" developed in US the single rope techniques (SRT) in the late 1950s. In 1958, two Swiss alpinists, Juesi and Marti teamed together, creating the first commercially-available rope ascender known as the Jumar. In 1968 Bruno Dressler asked Petzl, who worked as a metals machinist, to build a rope-ascending tool, today known as the Petzl Croll, that he had developed by adapting the Jumar to the specificity of Pit caving. Pursuing these developments, Fernand Petzl started in the 1970s a small caving equipment manufacturing company Petzl, which is today a world leader in equipment for both caving, climbing, mountaineering and at-height safety in civil engineering. The development of the rappel rack and the evolution of mechanical ascension systems, notably helped extend the practice and safety of pit exploration to a larger venue of established cavers.
From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single_rope_technique

:)
 
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