Of course popular climbs will get more usage in a day than most caving routes do in a week or possibly month, so this is what BMC say:
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Re-equipping: correctly specified resin bolts have an exceptionally long lifetime. When re-equipping a route, consider resin bolts to be the default option. Re-equipping implies that a route is popular enough or good enough to be worth the effort of using glue-ins. Opting for the longest lasting solution when re-equipping reduces the number of bolt placements in the long term and can extend the lifespan of the route.
Popularity: resin bolts are generally very strong, and will generally stand up better to sustained, intensive use than expansion bolts will. This makes them the ideal choice for very popular crags and routes.
Rock type and quality: for testing purposes bolts are placed in a block of standard concrete with a compressive strength of 50MPa. In the field, rock quality and hardness can vary a great deal and this should be taken into account when choosing the bolt type to place, as they may not perform as well as in their test specification. 10mm expansion bolts are only suitable for hard rock, whilst 12mm expansion bolts can be used on hard to medium rock types. By choosing a longer length as the rock gets softer, resin bolts can be used on almost any climbable rock type. Some rock may contain voids, cracks or weak layers, in which case resin bolts are also preferred. See Appendix A for rock compressive strength data.
Corrosive environment: environments are split into three classes in the update to the EN959 standard. Each class has a range of specified materials which may be used, and a description of the intended usage location. It is worth noting that resin bolts generally have a better resistance to corrosion than expansion bolts for a given material class, especially if they contain no exposed welds, and that forthcoming standards are likely to recommend designs and manufacturing methods which aim to minimise the various forms of corrosion which have been found to affect anchors. See Appendix B for a discussion of corrosion issues found in climbing bolts and belays and Appendix C for the EN959 classification table."