Resin bolting

[georgenorth]

Given that no single anchor should be relied upon in use, that leaves cavers in a pretty good position.

In many places, anchors are placed such that it is impossible to rig correctly using them. Cavers are then in a situation where failure of a single anchor could be fatal. But we all know it doesn't matter, because resins don't fail.

Really? I've never come across a p-anchored cave which has been impossible to rig correctly (such that failure of a single anchor is likely to lead to significant injury/death).

For what it's worth, the standard of bolting in caves (dodgy old spits aside) tends to be far higher than for sport climbs.

 

[Mike Hopley]

Really? I've never come across a p-anchored cave which has been impossible to rig correctly (such that failure of a single anchor is likely to lead to significant injury/death).

Diccan Pot, last rebelay is a single anchor. Failure of that at the wrong time leads to a very dangerous fall. Same for Long Kin East, Juniper Gulf, Meregill...

(In Diccan I tried using a dodgy spit for backup, which was silly and futile, but also a little fun.)

There are also cases of traverse lines where you're only protected by one anchor when approaching the pitch, although I don't remember where. Sometimes a natural backup could be used, but not always.

I don't wish to moan though. I do think the standard of bolting overall is superb and I'm thankful for it.

For what it's worth, the standard of bolting in caves (dodgy old spits aside) tends to be far higher than for sport climbs.

Indeed. But sport climbers don't depend one anchor, except right at the start and hopefully very close to the ground, ready to land well (not hanging in their harness), and maybe being spotted.

 

[georgenorth]

Really? I've never come across a p-anchored cave which has been impossible to rig correctly (such that failure of a single anchor is likely to lead to significant injury/death).

Diccan Pot, last rebelay is a single anchor. Failure of that at the wrong time leads to a very dangerous fall. Same for Long Kin East, Juniper Gulf, Meregill...

(In Diccan I tried using a dodgy spit for backup, which was silly and futile, but also a little fun.)

There are also cases of traverse lines where you're only protected by one anchor when approaching the pitch, although I don't remember where. Sometimes a natural backup could be used, but not always.

I don't wish to moan though. I do think the standard of bolting overall is superb and I'm thankful for it.

The chances of being high enough from the ground to cause injury, whilst not so high that you miss it in case of rebelay failure seems tiny. Obviously it's something that cavers should be aware of (and mitigate against by not leaving lots of slack before rebelays). Compared to the other risks involved in going caving, its way, way down the list of things to be concerned about though!

For what it's worth, the standard of bolting in caves (dodgy old spits aside) tends to be far higher than for sport climbs.

Indeed. But sport climbers don't depend one anchor, except right at the start and hopefully very close to the ground, ready to land well (not hanging in their harness), and maybe being spotted.

At most sports crags failure of either of the first 2 bolts, and often the third, will definitely lead to hitting the ground, often from a significant height! There's pretty much zero chance of being spotted or landing well above the first bolt! A friend of mine recently broke his back when the quickdraw on the second bolt broke and he hit the ground - I think there's been a few similar incidents. https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/rock_talk/qd_snapgate_breaking_resulting_in_decking-720367

I think cavers have really benefited from the considered and fairly well regulated bolting in popular caves.

 

[Badlad]

Hey all you bolting types, E&T convener et all

I came across these instructional videos from the BMC on how to place resin bolts on crags.  I thought it might have some relevance or ideas towards a training aid.  There are six short films in the set;

Gearing up, drilling, glueing, record keeping, angle grinding, bolt fund....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrM_QiljtBk&list=PLTodUXkQjZwwWgf7orztnrUIXDG1IqJyP&index=1