• CSCC Newsletter - May 2024

    Available now. Includes details of upcoming CSCC Annual General Meeting 10th May 2024

    Click here for more info

Turning a Stop into a Simple (or bobbin)

anfieldman

New member
paul said:
docfunk said:
It looks overly complex for me  :-\

It's so complicated that it's the way that the manufacturer recommends to lock off securely... See the pamphlet which comes with the Stop on purchase or if you haven't got one, see the online version at Petzl's website. They don't show the additional soft-lock when using a braking krab in use but you can refer to Francis's photo to see that.

It always amazes me when people buy a piece of kit with clear instructions on usage and they come up with many other suggestions which are nearly always inferior.

Sorry Paul but those pictures show a combination of a quick lock-off (3C) & a secure lock-off (3D) so it is a tad over complicated. I don't mean to be rude but look again. ;)




 

anfieldman

New member
Sorry, I cannot modify my last post for some reason but I wanted to add that IMO I would use one lock off or the other. What is the point in having a combination of the two if the secure lock off in picture 3D is sufficient?? Perhaps someone can enlighten me?
 

francis

New member
The reason I do it like that is that I was taught to do it like that. I think that it's probably easier to undo the lock off if it's done like that because it doesn't tighten itself as much.

Francis
 

SeeJay

Member
Personally I put both the soft/quick and hard/secure locks on my stop.  The reason: I'm relatively new to SRT and I found that with just a hard lock on when I came to test my stop at pitch heads & rebelays that the slack bit of rope that forms the hard lock was sufficient to allow the stop to slip down a little when released on newer ropes.  This obviously makes the testing trickier because it increases the chances that I'm then hanging from one of my cowstails. 

Maybe there's some dextrous way of removing the hard lock that prevents this, but I found it easier to just put both locks on because the soft lock holds the slack rope while you remove the hard lock, and there's no slack introduced into the stop while you remove the soft lock.  I don't find it takes a significant amount of time to do both locks and it seems worth it from a safety and convenience point of view.
 

damian

Active member
anfieldman said:
Sorry, I cannot modify my last post for some reason but I wanted to add that IMO I would use one lock off or the other. What is the point in having a combination of the two if the secure lock off in picture 3D is sufficient?? Perhaps someone can enlighten me?

I would suggest that Francis does it as shown because using a braking krab (or Raumber Handy), if you only use a standard hard lock, and necessarily, therefore, bypass the braking krab when locking off, the braking krab doesn't immediately come into play when unlocking again. On thin, new ropes, or in a rescue situation with extra weight, this could be very dangerous indeed. For the sake of one extra flick of the wrist, I would always suggest .. and always teach people ... to do both a "soft" and a "hard" lock as shown by Francis.

As an aside, I like your neat-looking lock, though, docfunk. I think it is tricky to do with one hand, though, isn't it?
 

paul

Moderator
damian said:
anfieldman said:
Sorry, I cannot modify my last post for some reason but I wanted to add that IMO I would use one lock off or the other. What is the point in having a combination of the two if the secure lock off in picture 3D is sufficient?? Perhaps someone can enlighten me?

I would suggest that Francis does it as shown because using a braking krab (or Raumber Handy), if you only use a standard hard lock, and necessarily, therefore, bypass the braking krab when locking off, the braking krab doesn't immediately come into play when unlocking again. On thin, new ropes, or in a rescue situation with extra weight, this could be very dangerous indeed. For the sake of one extra flick of the wrist, I would always suggest .. and always teach people ... to do both a "soft" and a "hard" lock as shown by Francis.

Exactly.
 

mak

Member
docfunk said:
potholer said:
[quote author=docfunk]...I sit for hours on this knot...
I'd get yourself some faster caving partners if I were you.
I was meaning whilst at work..
And as for no knot, I carry 500 metres of rope and it allways seems to touch the bottom,hence no knot   :tease:
[/quote]
Well I know of at least one well known caver on a trip to ireland many years ago who despite seeing about 20m of rope coiled up on the floor below a pitch decided to haul it back up and re-tie the end knot 'cos it wasn't tied properly  :confused:
 

Les W

Active member
mak said:
Well I know of at least one well known caver on a trip to ireland many years ago who despite seeing about 20m of rope coiled up on the floor below a pitch decided to haul it back up and re-tie the end knot 'cos it wasn't tied properly  :confused:

Do I know him / her ?
 

SamT

Moderator
may i refer you to the cautionary tale in Beneath the Mountains......

He paused for the first time at the top of Camshaft. It had been one of the trickier rigs in the cave, for there was a rub pointy a short way down which had proved curiously difficult to avoid with rebelays. A few days before, a party found the rope cut to the core, and sensibly they cut it, leaving only just enough for the descent. They arranged a more gymnastic way of getting on the rope which required a shorter length.


Despite the fact that Ian was on a de-rigging trip, he found himself unable to avoid re-rigging this pitch again. He knew that the take-off in this case would be so much simpler and less strenuous if there was an extra back-up from the boulder by the stream, and if the main hang were achieved via a triple belay...he pulled up the rope required and made his adjustments. What he didn't do was to check it there was a knot on the end of the rope. All the ropes on the expedition had knots in the end, even, as was usually the case, if the rope was much longer than required. There was still a knot in the end of the spare rope coiled on the floor. It is tempting to speculate whether a companion would have pointed out to Ian that he should check the rope's end, but Ian didn't have a companion.


What Ian did was to use about fifteen feet of extra rope in his re-rig, so that when he slid down the rope he sailed off the free end and flew bum-first into a serendipitous deep pool of water. It was about nine o'clock in the morning. Back at the camp, above all the pitches, squeezes and across the fell, the other cavers lay dozing in their bags. Not one had started to stir.


Neck-deep in his pool, Ian was far from asleep. His plight was straight out of a caving pub-yarn; at once desperately serious and totally absurd. The rope dangled enticingly above him way out of reach. There were no walls anywhere near to it, nor any movable rocks he could use to build a cairn and get to it. When he recovered from the shock he had a go at climbing up in the downstream passage, where he could bridge with one foot on either wall until he was way, way above the floor, perhaps half the height of the pitch. It wasn't possible to get any higher, and he could see the rope dangling only metres away out of reach. Did it occur to him to leap into space and grab for the rope, or did he accept his fate at once? Whichever, he was marooned.

I;ll let you read the rest to find out his fate - http://www.oucc.org.uk/btm/beneath.htm

lest to say no matter how long your rope - ALWAYS BLOODY WELL PUT A KNOT IN THE END.
 

damian

Active member
SamT said:
lest to say no matter how long your rope - ALWAYS BLOODY WELL PUT A KNOT IN THE END.

Hear, hear.

I was asked once to accompany someone on a trip so I could offer them some advice on their rigging and how to  improve. Except for a few things which I would have done slightly differently, their rigging was really good and I was pleased to tell them as much. However, there was one thing above all else which I felt would one day lead to an accident ... and it was nothing to do with their rigging - at the bottom of every pitch, they promptly undid the knot in the end of the rope. When I talked to them about this, they didn't really know why they undid the knot. The only thing I can think of is that they once watched someone using hangers and maillons pre-threaded on the rope remove the spares at the bottom of the pitch by untying the knot and sliding them off. From then on they always undid the knot without thinking.
 

paul

Moderator
Another reason for having a knot in the end is: if the sheath were to be cut for some reason and then slid down the rope while you were beneath the damage, it is possible for the sheath to slide right off (although this is more likely on looser-sheathed dynamic rope). A knot will cause the sheath to gather at the bottom of thr rope without completely sliding off.
 
M

MSD

Guest
paul said:
damian said:
anfieldman said:
Sorry, I cannot modify my last post for some reason but I wanted to add that IMO I would use one lock off or the other. What is the point in having a combination of the two if the secure lock off in picture 3D is sufficient?? Perhaps someone can enlighten me?

I would suggest that Francis does it as shown because using a braking krab (or Raumber Handy), if you only use a standard hard lock, and necessarily, therefore, bypass the braking krab when locking off, the braking krab doesn't immediately come into play when unlocking again. On thin, new ropes, or in a rescue situation with extra weight, this could be very dangerous indeed. For the sake of one extra flick of the wrist, I would always suggest .. and always teach people ... to do both a "soft" and a "hard" lock as shown by Francis.

Exactly.

I agree with this, plus only using a hard lock sometimes results in a jam caused by the rope getting pinched.

Mark
 

mak

Member
Les W said:
mak said:
Well I know of at least one well known caver on a trip to ireland many years ago who despite seeing about 20m of rope coiled up on the floor below a pitch decided to haul it back up and re-tie the end knot 'cos it wasn't tied properly   :confused:

Do I know him / her ?
Yes you do know him - but I'll not name names (has been known for his use of cowstails - if that helps)
 

Les W

Active member
mak said:
Les W said:
mak said:
Well I know of at least one well known caver on a trip to ireland many years ago who despite seeing about 20m of rope coiled up on the floor below a pitch decided to haul it back up and re-tie the end knot 'cos it wasn't tied properly  :confused:

Do I know him / her ?
Yes you do know him - but I'll not name names (has been known for his use of cowstails - if that helps)
Yes I guessed as much.  ;) ;) ;) ;)
 

Cookie

New member
mak said:
Yes you do know him - but I'll not name names (has been known for his use of cowstails - if that helps)

You're probably talking about me; not that I can remember the incident. Better safe than sorry eh?

I was going to congratulate you upon your photos gracing the back cover of the current Speleology - shan't bother now.  :ras:

 
B

BCMCXIV

Guest
hoehlenforscher said:
I personally use a Simple combined with a Shunt. That way you get the best of both worlds and also have 2 points of contact with the rope at all times (like when ascending. When rigging you just slide the shunt up till your weight comes on it and hang off that. Obviously a little more involved than a Stop but a bit more versatile and IMHO.

Speaking as someone who's been caving for five years and is still s**t scared about abseiling, that sounds like a really neat suggestion. Does the shunt just follow you down the pitch automatically when under slight tension, or does it jam from time to time (I've only ever used one for self-belaying on ladders)? A friend of mine has been using a bobbin for about a year now and swears by it. I quite fancy giving it a try but don't want to plummet to a nasty death... ;)
 
Top