Head torch opinions

[royfellows]

I'm not sure either. The foam may pull away enough to allow drilling and bolting, but impossible to say without seeing it. My advice is to contact the helmet manufacturer before you buy any lamp, see my previous comments.

Looks a nice helmet though for the money.

[PeteHall]

Yes I would want to bolt on a lamp rather than glue it for security. I have a black diamond women's half dome helmet. Same as this one http://www.johncrossandsons.co.uk/black-diamond-half-dome-helmet-women-grey-2018-oeaorj-black-diamond-p-3176.html If you take a look at the pics I'm not sure how easy it is to remove the foam and drill it?

Without seeing the helmet, it's hard to say, but if it was me, I'd consider drilling a slightly larger diameter hole through the foam from the inside, that the bolt head could be recessed into, then a small hole through the shell for the bolt thread.

Personally, I've never worried about drilling the odd hole in a helmet. It's mostly there to stop you bumping your head on the roof. If something falls on you hard enough to break the helmet, it'll probably break your neck too and if you fall on your head hard enough to break your helmet, you'll probably break too.

I like the idea of the light not being a hard bolted fixture - I've often thought that if the lamphead or battery box sustained a collision the strain on the bolts could possibly foul the helmet.

Seems a reasonable concern with these lightweight flexible shelled climbing helmets, however I would have thought that using a large washer would spread the load and mitigate the problem.

My advice is to contact the helmet manufacturer before you buy any lamp

I wouldn't bother. Almost certainly they will say don't drill it and use the provided fittings for an elastic band type head-torch, which is obvioualy non-ideal for caving. Also, the intended use is stated as "climbing" so perhaps they would just tell you not to use it for caving...

[PaulW]

i've drilled them like Pete suggest before

if you remove the 4 red clips shown on the ouside of the helmet then the crable will probably come out, and then the foam

[markpot]

As above,drilling will be fine.Another option if your buying one of Roys lamps would be to source a gopro elastic head band.

[Fulk]

I fixed my Fenix lamp (a HP 25R) to my helmet using cable ties around the head-band (and similarly for the battery pack at the back of the helmet), which means that there are no bolts projecting into the helmet:

[royfellows]

As above,drilling will be fine.Another option if your buying one of Roys lamps would be to source a gopro elastic head band.

To clarify, only Scorpion series is GoPro compatible. I would dearly love to extend this to the Dragon as this lamp neatly fills the gap left by the Stenlight at a reasonable price. However having these made would seriously jack up the price. It is possible to fit a Dragon lamp to a GoPro helmet bracket using some spacer washes, but its a hash up.

Go pro headband, I have just sourced a selection from £2 a piece. I will probably look for best quality for money and get some stock in. They are on eBay from £2.99
Having said all this, a rigid mount using bolts would be best option for any lamp.

[Commers]

Looking at the attached technical notice for Petzl's bolt on lamp mount for the foam lined Boreo helmet, it indicates that drilling through the foam is acceptable for bolt mounting.

[Madness]

The self adhesive Go-Pro mounts with the 3M adhesive pad stick very well. I've got one on my skiing helmet and one on my motorbike fairing. Both are solid.

[Mike Hopley]

I'll just note that I tried using Petzl's adhesive mount to fix an Ultra Vario to a Sirocco (and I did sand down the surface a bit). This is not approved by the manufacturer.

It fell off after very little caving. I'm guessing it would have been okay on a hard-shell helmet (which is the intended use).

Then very shortly afterwards, they released a dedicated mount for a Sirocco. FML.

[Commers]

Will you go back to the Sirocco now Petzl make a light mount? I'm tall and prone to banging my head so doubt a soft shell helmet would last long for me...

[Mike Hopley]

Will you go back to the Sirocco now Petzl make a light mount? I'm tall and prone to banging my head so doubt a soft shell helmet would last long for me...

Yep, I already have the new mount.

The Sirocco is not designed for caving so caveat emptor, but the new version has a hard section on top of the head. I've walloped my head several times and it's not showing any real sign of wear yet. And neither is the helmet.

Mr Seddon described it as "intelligent misuse of equipment", which I think sums it up nicely. Time will tell.

[Fulk]

I looked at Petzl's video and it said that it (the Sirocco helmet) has been 'tested in the deepest caves' (whatever that might mean).

[JasonC]

.. it said that it (the Sirocco helmet) has been 'tested in the deepest caves' (whatever that might mean).

obviously, the pressure on the helmet increases exponentially with cave depth   

[Mike Hopley]

I looked at Petzl's video and it said that it (the Sirocco helmet) has been 'tested in the deepest caves' (whatever that might mean).

Oh yes, I remember that now. That seems a bit odd, given they're not otherwise marketing it as a caving helmet. Maybe they haven't quite decided yet!

[royfellows]

I looked at Petzl's video and it said that it (the Sirocco helmet) has been 'tested in the deepest caves' (whatever that might mean).

Written for them by a politician maybe?
 

[Commers]

I'll just note that I tried using Petzl's adhesive mount to fix an Ultra Vario to a Sirocco

How do you detach the Vario's battery plug from the rear plate of the headstrap? (see attached image). It looks like tugging it sharply to the left would disengage it but I'm worried I break it.

[Mike Hopley]

How do you detach the Vario's battery plug from the rear plate of the headstrap? (see attached image). It looks like tugging it sharply to the left would disengage it but I'm worried I break it.

You need to push it to the right (as seen in that image, you can see there is a gap on the right of the plate). Don't tug on the power cable.

It's a little awkward. I get really close to it -- maybe bracing my hands on my legs so they don't move too much.

[Commers]

You need to push it to the right

Thanks - that was helpful.

[Mike Hopley]

Glad to help.

[Madness]

Here's a new possibility

http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/nalobnye-fonari/panda-3r/

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67283

[royfellows]

Described as IPX8 and then:
WATERPROOF
The headlamp is secure against dripping and splashing water and rain, and it is able to withstand a short-time immersion to a depth of up to one meter.

......which is IPX7
Not very professional to start with.

[Commers]

Here's a new possibility

http://ylplight.com/en/katalog/1/nalobnye-fonari/panda-3r/

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67283

I was thinking about buying something like that  - I was looking at Zebralights - for a backup light. But for a main caving light I'd always choose something from Roy Fellows, Scurion, Rude or Petzl for a more convincing assurance of aftersales service.

[royfellows]

But for anyone who wants to pay the money for shear quality nothing will compete with Mr Biffs new Rude Nora.

Sorry quoting myself, but has anyone bought one of these and in a position to do a review?

[Cassidy]

Anyone using a zebra light as a back-up?
Which model do you use, pro's/con's?
Given the choice, would you have opted for a different model?

[Kenilworth]

Anyone using a zebra light as a back-up?
Which model do you use, pro's/con's?
Given the choice, would you have opted for a different model?

I have used Zebralights exclusively for the last five years or so. I generally use a white beam with a hot spot for general caving and especially big passages and a super wide, warm beam for sketching and small passages. Can't remember what models. Single 18650s. I don't want anything more out of a light, they have functioned perfectly through regular heavy use, are bright and tough and small with excellent runtime.