central maillon...

[ian mckenzie]

For the main harness tie-in point maillon, do you folks generally use aluminum, or steel? D, or triangle?

I've been using an aluminum triangle but am considering a move to a D, but was wondering whether steel is overkill, or reasonable.

 

[cap n chris]

Ian, I use a D and it's steel; for the simplest of reasons - it's much cheaper than an aluminium one.

 

[bubba]

I use a D but no idea what it's made of, it's just the standard one off the shelf from the local caving shop.

 

[Speleomarcus]

I use a steel D its cheap and robust.

 

[paul]

I used to use a delta alloy but found everything used to catch as they slid into the topmost "point" of the delta. I tried an alloy "D" and that soon got very stiff to screw/unscrew - probably because the "D" shape is more prone to being accidentally widened when putting the harness on and causing misalignment of the screw threads.

Finally I tried a steel "D" and have had no problems since - the gear doesn't all bunch together and I can till screw/unscrew it very easily.

 

[SamT]

Yup, Steel D.

I prefere D shape for ease of gettin kit on and off the mallion. You have a job as it is, having a delta just seems to make life harder.
Steel, cause its cheap and strong.

 

[ian mckenzie]

The main fault with the triangle is that the screw-gate is on the side, not the bottom, and stuff gets caught on it. Also the loaded item sits in the apex and when you are switching over to something else there is competition for that limited space.

I've pretty much decided to go to a D myself - it seems steel is preferred - but with my single-loop harness (see Stop Connection topic) this means I will not be able to see the screw-gate i.e. it will be hidden within the loop, and will be harder to periodically check that it's threaded fully closed. Mind you, it will also be protected from being spun by the rope I guess.

 

[Iain Barker]

Go for the steel "D" Ian, more room, stronger & more resistant to abrasion. If the screw closure should jam it's worth remembering that the end of a Petzl Stop is roughly the same width across as the flats on the screw; so you have a spanner on your harness anyway (mind you, don't put too much muscle on it and bust the Stop!).

 

[ian mckenzie]

So did you buy your steel D at the hardware store, or from a posh caving shop?

 

[SamT]

if you can call Hitch'n'Hike posh. :wink:

 

[Titch98]

I use a 10mm steel "D" for my CM.

Ally ones, as already mentioned, are prone to abrasion damage due to the softness of the material, eventually reducing their overall strength and leaving them open for general failure, whereas the steel ones are more tougher.

Remember, the CM of your rig is one of the most important connections........cowstails, descender and ascenders all clip into this (directly or indirectly), not to forget that it holds yer harness together! I personally would never rely on an ally MR for such an important connection.

I purchase all my caving gear from Caving Supplies at Buxton.

 

[ian mckenzie]

Because everyone says the steels ones are cheaper than aluminum, I assume that means you use the galvanized ones rather than the stainless, which seem to be triple the price...?
And do you go for brand-name (e.g. Maillon Rapide) or just the hardware-store variety? (Is there even a hardware-store D?)

 

[tubby two]

Steel D, simple reason- it feels nice, heavy and trustworthy compared to alloy stuff!

and whatever cheap one the caving store has- it's not like about £3/4 breaks the bank when you think of all the other stuff we buy.

same dosent apply for crabs mind.

tt.

 

[diggerdog adam]

Im thinking of getting a stainless steel D next time because im sick of steel and alli ones jamming up on the threads if any one has got one how do they find it?

And it not as if i dont look after them always washed/ oiled after each time out !

 

[cap n chris]

Why not just spend 50p on a spanner and keep it in your oversuit? - this way you'd always be able to undo your maillon no matter what type or metal used?

 

[diggerdog adam]

Thanks for that tip cap n chris ! I always carry a spanner plus you could always use your stop.

But, the idea of a screw thred is so that the nut can move freely down it just nipping at the last bit, i bet you would soon scrap rigging malions if you had to tighten them all the way with a spanner !

If you have to force a thred it is damaged or in the process of being damaged and in my opinoin therefore needs to be replaced !

 

[Dave H]

Why not just spend 50p on a spanner and keep it in your oversuit? - this way you'd always be able to undo your maillon no matter what type or metal used?

A wide opening rigging maillon will also do the job if you've lost your spanner.

 

[SamT]

better still - attach the cowstail on your hand jammer using a 7mm stainless mallion. in the event of your main D sticking - a quick jiggle, and you can use the mallion as a spanner to loosen the D.

Note - some people have been seen to put the mallion below the left hand harness strap - i.e. next to the 'nut' on the D. I find this a pain for two reasons. One - while prusiking - it can act as a spanner and undo your D.
Two - if your hand jammer is loaded via the cowstail - steep traverses etc - then your whole D twists and inverts which is rather uncomfortable.

 

[Fred]

Definitely a D CM for me - tried the delta (triangle) and it just scared me, tendancy to small sudden drops when transferring to another piece of kit.

I've got a Stainless Steel D now - no corrosion so still lovely and shiny, also still undoes and does up very freely. However this may just be luck as my previous steel ones are still reasonable as well just starting to rust a bit.

The best spanner I've found for a CM is a 7mm Maillon - the distance between the sides is just perfect. Also if you attach your jammer safety cord using one it means you can easily take it off for crawls squeezes etc.

 

[tubby two]

Or just use the mallion your idiot cord is attached to, brilliant, you even save 50p for that extra 1/4 pint!

tt.