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Y-hang

badger

Active member
Having a rebelay below will limit the drop to a couple of metres too. All these reduce the risk, but don't eliminate it. I used bowline on the bight for decades and still would with an expert team, but a fusion is almost identical in speed to tie adjust and dress, with just another turn in the rope to make. Easier to use another knot that doesn't have the risk at all than be explaining to a coroner why you tied it and some one else hit the ground.
Nigel Ball did tests with a fushion knot, he got it to slip if only clipped into one loop!!!, I have tried getting the BoB to slip clipping in one loop, I have never managed it, Pete Knight has managed to get the BoB to slip, but pretty sure his verdict, its pretty hard to do.
At LCMLA & CIC level {the ones I have had training and Core Skills with} they are happy if you rig using BoB.
Anybody rigging should Rig with what ever knot they are most comfortable with, BoB is fine, as is a fushion or a fig 8 bunny ears. All knots should be dressed correctly, and is pure sloppy rigging for those that don't, we talking a second to dress it, as is tying the knot approx. the right place so you don't spend time fannying about adjusting it
 

badger

Active member
Is there a reference for that? Would be interested to read/see.
Not sure, it was in conversation with Nigel, and sadly can no longer ask him. He did also show me a BoB with an extra turn. Which he claimed did not slip on tests.
Like I have said I have played around trying to get a BoB to slip and have failed. Although I have seen it slip in a video. However I believe if dressed and weighted the chance of this happening are almost non existent.
I personally shall still use BoB. It's what I am comfortable with.
Pete Knight might have or tested the fushion knot.
 

Babyhagrid

Well-known member
I've had a badly dressed BOB slip a bit on me. Was quite stressful and a good reminder to always tighten and dress the knots.
 

wellyjen

Well-known member
surely a bowline on the bight with an extra turn is just a fusion knot 🤔
In the same way that a figure 8 on the bight is an overhand knot on the bight with an extra turn. Puts in a bit more resistance to the rope pulling through. You can turn an overhand on the bight in to a bowline on the bight in the same way as you turn a figure 8 on the bight in to a fusion knot.
 

andrewmcleod

Well-known member
I find the spur on a Freino makes a useful marlinspike.

I tend to take all the knots out of rope as I derig (I usually have time). Consequently I tend to only use knots that I know will easily and immediately come undone even in my 9mm rope - fusions for Y hangs, bowlines on the bight for single bolt rebelays, Alpine butterflies on traverses. I will even use a bowline on the bight on any traverse knot that might get extra pulling load (e.g. one at the top of a sloping traverse).
 

badger

Active member
surely a bowline on the bight with an extra turn is just a fusion knot 🤔
No. Fushion you start with a fig 8 on a bight.
This extra turn makes the knot like a normal BoB. I would have to show you.
 

Tangent_tracker

Active member
Fusion knot is a new one on me, I’ll have to perform some evaluation!
Dead simple, if you tie a bowline on the byte you can very quickly convert to Fusion in a similar way you can quickly convert to bunny ears. Instead of using the loop you use the lower two ropes of the knot and the loop comes over to create the bind (for want of a better word!).
 

JoshW

Well-known member
Dead simple, if you tie a bowline on the byte you can very quickly convert to Fusion in a similar way you can quickly convert to bunny ears. Instead of using the loop you use the lower two ropes of the knot and the loop comes over to create the bind (for want of a better word!).
Clear as mud
 
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