He did also show me a BoB with an extra turn. Which he claimed did not slip on tests.
surely a bowline on the bight with an extra turn is just a fusion knot
The extra turn is in the same direction, like a Capuchin, rather than the opposite direction like a figure 8. Pete Knight calls the knot a Double Bowline on the Bight, seeNo. Fushion you start with a fig 8 on a bight.
This extra turn makes the knot like a normal BoB. I would have to show you.
Yup, that’s spot on. Big boy HMS is ideal for the jobHere's a question for JoshW: Way back in this thread you mentioned the use of a 'king crab'. I assume that this is a karabiner clipped into both loops of the knot and left there for everyone to clip their safety cord into?
I have known the rock with a single hang fail on the last pitch in Little Hull Pot. Admittedly, a Y-hang probably wouldn't have helped in that case - a huge section of wall peeled away.Isn't the underpinning rationale behind a y-hang the 53/100ths loading on each anchor presuming a 45 degree separation, harking back the glorious halcyon days of self-drilling bolts which alarmingly had a habit of popping out far too regularly and therefore sharing the loading with y-hang rigging minimised the pop-outs and the resultant equalisation shock loadings?
If so, in an age of bomb-proof resined anchors et al, do y-hangs still have relevancy? Discuss. Include illustrations and your maths to support your case.