Cantclimbtom
Active member
Maybe you don't have them in your caving region? they only work on magnetic limestoneNever mind the knot, where can I get those anchors you just stick on to the wall wherever you want them?
Y-hang
- Thread starter hannahb
- Start date
Babyhagrid
Well-known member
Could help for rigging on steel scaffolding?? 
surely a bowline on the bight with an extra turn is just a fusion knot
The extra turn is in the same direction, like a Capuchin, rather than the opposite direction like a figure 8. Pete Knight calls the knot a Double Bowline on the Bight, see
Double Bowline on the Bight – How to tie | Pete Knight's Blog
www.peakinstruction.com
Tim Pickering
Member
Ah-ha! I've been (quite literally) tying myself up in knots trying to work out how to tie a fusion knot based on the info on this thread. Brilliant video (with the sound muted!).
Here's a question for JoshW: Way back in this thread you mentioned the use of a 'king crab'. I assume that this is a karabiner clipped into both loops of the knot and left there for everyone to clip their safety cord into?
Also, I was under the impression that 'bunny (ear) knot' was a generic term for any knot that provided you with two loops, whether it be a figure-8-in-the-bight, bowline-in-the-bight, Karash knot, but here it seems to be being used specifically for the figure-8-in-the-bight; is that so?
Also, I was under the impression that 'bunny (ear) knot' was a generic term for any knot that provided you with two loops, whether it be a figure-8-in-the-bight, bowline-in-the-bight, Karash knot, but here it seems to be being used specifically for the figure-8-in-the-bight; is that so?
My understanding of 'bunny ears' is a double loop knot tied as follows:
- make a figure 8 on the bight with the loop about twice the length of the arm of the Y
- feed the end of the loop back through the knot at the same point it emerges; don't pull it through, leave the double loop
- invert the end over the double loop to secure it
www.animatedknots.com
- make a figure 8 on the bight with the loop about twice the length of the arm of the Y
- feed the end of the loop back through the knot at the same point it emerges; don't pull it through, leave the double loop
- invert the end over the double loop to secure it
Figure 8 Double Loop
Also known as "Bunny Ears", it is a stable double loop in the middle of a piece of rope and is based on the simple Figure 8 knot.
www.animatedknots.com
JoshW
Well-known member
Yup, that’s spot on. Big boy HMS is ideal for the job
cap n chris
Well-known member
Isn't the underpinning rationale behind a y-hang the 53/100ths loading on each anchor presuming a 45 degree separation, harking back the glorious halcyon days of self-drilling bolts which alarmingly had a habit of popping out far too regularly and therefore sharing the loading with y-hang rigging minimised the pop-outs and the resultant equalisation shock loadings?
If so, in an age of bomb-proof resined anchors et al, do y-hangs still have relevancy? Discuss. Include illustrations and your maths to support your case.
If so, in an age of bomb-proof resined anchors et al, do y-hangs still have relevancy? Discuss. Include illustrations and your maths to support your case.
Babyhagrid
Well-known member
Y hangs do lead to much nicer hangs on quite a few pitches. Eg getting the rope away from the rock.
langcliffe
Well-known member
I have known the rock with a single hang fail on the last pitch in Little Hull Pot. Admittedly, a Y-hang probably wouldn't have helped in that case - a huge section of wall peeled away.
JoshW
Well-known member
Y hangs also provide equalised redundancy, not necessarily for reducing the load on each bolt.
redundancy in case of failed rock, bolt, carabiner/maillon or rope.
Of course as @Babyhagrid says a freehanging SRT line is almost always nicer than one rubbing against a rock
redundancy in case of failed rock, bolt, carabiner/maillon or rope.
Of course as @Babyhagrid says a freehanging SRT line is almost always nicer than one rubbing against a rock
