Author Topic: Help identifying a bolt for Jugholes gate (Read 5603 times)

bograt · « **Reply #25 on:** March 05, 2014, 10:44:21 pm »

Quote from: Pete K on March 05, 2014, 09:34:23 pm

People always tell me that nothing on the internet ever disappears completely. So with that in mind, the correct bolt is an M16 2.0 80mm.
I shall PM you Shotlighter about a replacement.

With that in mind, would it be a good idea to invest in a Project Officers notebook to list all these overlooked details?. For instance, does anyone know the threads on all the other "Derbyshire Key" access lids?, nut size is not a problem because a large adjustable spanner is advised, but replacements need to be thought about.

P.S. Well done Pete et.al., a very good example of the use of this forum to the good of all. Also a good example of the results of bringing young blood into the organisation

, keep up the good work

Pete K · « **Reply #26 on:** March 05, 2014, 11:06:34 pm »

Thanks Bograt.
Oddly enough, I started a log last week when I first took up the position just so I would have a record of things if I or a future PO needed to look back. Great minds and all that..
I will certainly record anything relevant like you suggest.

Madness · « **Reply #27 on:** March 06, 2014, 07:51:27 am »

If someone can supply me with a list of bolt sizes (thread and length) I'll see what I can get from work. If you have spares to hand it makes replacement a doddle.

Also I might be in a position to help with steelwork reqirements as I work at a steel fabrication company.

Pete K · « **Reply #28 on:** March 06, 2014, 08:10:32 am »

If anyone out there with knowledge of the Jugholes gate arrangement cares to share ideas about how a standard bolt could be used instead of a custom one I'd be grateful.
Currently the plan is to replace like for like but if there is a better alternative that will make replacement in the future a quicker option I am open to hear it.
One thing that crossed my mind was to use locktight or similar to glue in an 80mm piece of threaded M16 bar to the current nut on the frame. You then only had to put a nut on it to lock the gate shut. Yes a nut is easier to drop but it's not like it is a shaft. A nut would be quicker to replace and we could have a couple stashed inside? In the future a good pair of molegrips could remove the bar to replace it.
How does that sound?

bograt · « **Reply #29 on:** March 06, 2014, 10:22:30 am »

Another alternative would be to use threaded bar cut to length with a pair of nuts to hold the chain in place, the end nut could be a nylock with the bar riveted over to stop it unscrewing, the chain retaining nut could be loctited to minimise movement, maybe a couple of washers to help rotation of the chain?

Pete K · « **Reply #30 on:** March 06, 2014, 10:31:16 am »

If the chain is captive between two washers and nuts I can see it twisting up and it becoming a pain to spanner up the bolt.
I cannot see a way of keeping the chain free to rotate with a normal nut and bolt. If a 'trapping' nut is used to keep the chain at the end, when the bolt is tightened into place and then loosened repeatedly, there is a danger of the nut coming loose from its glued position is there not?
I'm keen to put a replacement system on that is easy to replace in the future. If you think Loctite may hold the chain nut well enough then I'm happy to just go out and do it today.

Madness · « **Reply #31 on:** March 06, 2014, 10:18:29 pm »

You could drill and tap the head end of the M16 bolt to take an M8 bolt. The chain could then be fastened to the M16 by the M8. It depends a bit on the size of the chain links.

Pete K · « **Reply #32 on:** March 06, 2014, 10:34:38 pm »

A novel idea that.
Shotlighter has kindly offered to fabricate and replace the bolt. I'm sure he will pick up on any additional ideas via this thread.
Thanks for the email too Madness. All offers of support are gratefully received.

Pete Knight
DCA Projects Officer

Pete K · « **Reply #33 on:** March 14, 2014, 02:57:31 pm »

Jugholes Mine nr Matlock
Please be aware that the replacement bolt for the Jugholes adit entrance is due to be fitted at some point over the course of this weekend (15/16th Feb).
Do remember to take a large adjustable spanner (Derbyshire key) to open the adit gate to the mine and please replace the bolt and spanner it tightly shut once all your party are in or out. Continued easy access to the site depends on the adit entrance remaining safely sealed from passers by. Always assume you will need to bring a spanner on this trip in the future as I believe it has been some time since one was deemed an essential item here.
Many thanks to those volunteers involved in the replacement.

Pete Knight
DCA Projects Officer

Pete K · « **Reply #34 on:** March 14, 2014, 06:17:18 pm »

Or rather the 15/16th March!

shotlighter · « **Reply #35 on:** March 15, 2014, 11:46:12 pm »

Quote from: Pete K on March 14, 2014, 06:17:18 pm

Or rather the 15/16th March!

Sorry all but due to a "chain ring related leg infection" 😥 it will have to be next weekend instead. - Providing my leg doesn't fall off first!

Jenny P · « **Reply #36 on:** March 19, 2014, 11:08:18 am »

Many thanks to Pete and Co. for solving the puzzle of the bolt size and getting the job sorted. Several people had already tried to help - turning up with a handful of assorted bolts, only to find that none fitted so went away foxed.

We'll make sure that word is put around that Jug Holes will now required a "Derbyshire Key" in order to get in or out via the lower entrance.

Jenny Potts
DCA Hon. Sec.

shotlighter · « **Reply #37 on:** April 05, 2014, 02:28:24 pm »

New bolt fitted today. Take a spanner, you have been warned!

mmilner · « **Reply #38 on:** April 05, 2014, 03:56:46 pm »

Quote from: shotlighter on April 05, 2014, 02:28:24 pm

New bolt fitted today. Take a spanner, you have been warned!

Now also posted on the DCA web site.

Pete K · « **Reply #39 on:** February 11, 2018, 09:31:07 pm »

Quote from: Pete K on March 05, 2014, 09:34:23 pm

People always tell me that nothing on the internet ever disappears completely. So with that in mind, the correct bolt is an M16 2.0 80mm.
I shall PM you Shotlighter about a replacement.

And thank goodness I did write that here because guess what? I've just heard the bolt has gone again. Anyone able to lay their hands on a spare?

shotlighter · « **Reply #40 on:** February 11, 2018, 10:27:00 pm »

Quote from: Pete K on February 11, 2018, 09:31:07 pm

Quote from: Pete K on March 05, 2014, 09:34:23 pm
People always tell me that nothing on the internet ever disappears completely. So with that in mind, the correct bolt is an M16 2.0 80mm.
I shall PM you Shotlighter about a replacement.
And thank goodness I did write that here because guess what? I've just heard the bolt has gone again. Anyone able to lay their hands on a spare?

I'll have a look & see what I have in the week.
The bad news is it might be the captive nut. The thread wasn't great on it 4yrs back, when I last did it.
Might be a bore & tap out to 18mm. In which case, I wont be doing it till the weather warms up!

Pete K · « **Reply #41 on:** February 11, 2018, 10:30:08 pm »

That would be great, many thanks. Shout if I can do anything to help.

TheBitterEnd · « **Reply #42 on:** February 12, 2018, 10:35:09 am »

Quote from: shotlighter on February 11, 2018, 10:27:00 pm

The bad news is it might be the captive nut. The thread wasn't great on it 4yrs back, when I last did it.
Might be a bore & tap out to 18mm. In which case, I wont be doing it till the weather warms up!

Or epoxy in an M16 to M14 (or M12) reducer?

shotlighter · « **Reply #43 on:** February 12, 2018, 12:52:05 pm »

Quote from: TheBitterEnd on February 12, 2018, 10:35:09 am

Quote from: shotlighter on February 11, 2018, 10:27:00 pm
The bad news is it might be the captive nut. The thread wasn't great on it 4yrs back, when I last did it.
Might be a bore & tap out to 18mm. In which case, I wont be doing it till the weather warms up!

Or epoxy in an M16 to M14 (or M12) reducer?

Was toying with just epoxying in a 16mm stud & closing it with a 16mm nut. Ok they get lost eventually but are dirt cheap.

Pete K · « **Reply #44 on:** February 12, 2018, 04:38:35 pm »

Any simple solution acceptable to DCA! If it's easy and cheap to replace, even better.

nickwilliams · « **Reply #45 on:** February 12, 2018, 05:54:27 pm »

Shotlighter,

I've got some resin and the kit to use it if you need it. I'll have some bigger studding and nuts too if you want to go bigger than M16.

iwebb · « **Reply #46 on:** February 12, 2018, 07:53:55 pm »

If for some unforeseen reason it does not work a new captive M16 stud could be welded to a replaceable plate which in turn is drilled to allow bolting to the existing angle iron frame - The frame would need drilling and tapping M8 or M10
If You have any problems I will be able to do this for you

shotlighter · « **Reply #47 on:** February 12, 2018, 08:34:36 pm »

Quote from: nickwilliams on February 12, 2018, 05:54:27 pm

Shotlighter,

I've got some resin and the kit to use it if you need it. I'll have some bigger studding and nuts too if you want to go bigger than M16.

Thanks Nick, I may be in touch!
I've found a couple of spare pins, so I'll pop across in the next week or so with one "for now".
Hopefully a new pin will give enough "bite" to last a couple of months until the weather improves & it can be done properly.
As you my recall, I'm not that mobile anymore & skating down that bankside in the mud & ice while juggling tools & walking stick, doesn't really do it for me!
Cheers
Nigel

shotlighter · « **Reply #48 on:** February 12, 2018, 08:47:53 pm »

Quote from: iwebb on February 12, 2018, 07:53:55 pm

If for some unforeseen reason it does not work a new captive M16 stud could be welded to a replaceable plate which in turn is drilled to allow bolting to the existing angle iron frame - The frame would need drilling and tapping M8 or M10
If You have any problems I will be able to do this for you

Cheers for the offer, but trying to keep it simple if possible.
Nice idea though & drilling a few 10mm holes through 10mm & tapping 'em sounds a lot better than trying to drill and tap an 18mm hole through 20mm.

Only slight problem may be the door not closing fully, as I built it so the hasp sat flush to the frame.

crickleymal · « **Reply #49 on:** February 13, 2018, 08:51:26 am »

Quote from: peterk on March 02, 2014, 08:11:06 pm

This is a table of bolt sizes http://www.britishfasteners.com/images/nuts_bolts_key.pdf and as the site title suggests the site is filled with info on obscure fasteners

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