Petzl Adjust Review

[andrewmcleod]

I’ve started carrying a 2m length of 8mm, barrel knotted onto a petzl HMS carabiner. I stow it doubled up with a knot so it’s about the size of a climbing quickdraw. Suggestion from the cncc rescue course. Can be used for building quick 3:1 hoists or getting the tension out of a rope etc.

You *may* find 2m is not long enough for a practical 3:1 lift. Once you've taken 25cm or more out for the knots on either end, you only get max 50cm of lifting (if you are lucky) which may not be enough to break into a system (given stretch etc).

For the same pack size on weight, you could probably get 5m of 5mm dyneema, which isn't _quite_ as strong but still strong enough and works fine in most ascenders etc.

 

[MarkS]

But is a bastard to adjust even when not muddy

Interesting. I've found it reasonably easy to adjust even when muddy, so long as the rope is damp/wet.

 

[Steve Clark]

You *may* find 2m is not long enough for a practical 3:1 lift. Once you've taken 25cm or more out for the knots on either end, you only get max 50cm of lifting (if you are lucky) which may not be enough to break into a system (given stretch etc).

For the same pack size on weight, you could probably get 5m of 5mm dyneema, which isn't _quite_ as strong but still strong enough and works fine in most ascenders etc.

It’s actually a bit longer. It’s a full 2m after the barrel knot, actually made from about 2.5m of rope. I’ve sized it to make the stowing really neat. That said, I weigh about 112kg so the majority of the time a simple 1:2 to a pulley with a re-direct from above will lift most people.

No real rescue experience though so I will give it a try and see if a bit more would be worth it.

If it’s a novice trip, we try to keep an extra rope and some crabs in the bottom of the final bag as a problem solver.

 

[JoshW]

Interesting. I've found it reasonably easy to adjust even when muddy, so long as the rope is damp/wet.

My understanding, and from (admittedly limited) playing with it, that it doesn’t adjust under any sort of load.

 

[JoshW]

Bear in mind the Evolv Adjust is intended only for use as an aid climbing tool and is not intended or rated to be used as a personal attachment; the cord in it is 8mm (I think) and doesn't meet the rating for rope/lanyards. That's why the maximum length is so long... I own one (and have never had a chance to use it) but wouldn't use it as my main cowstails (for the same reason I wouldn't use 8mm rope for my cowstails).

I do make sure to be careful to stay under the traverse line (as we all should anyway) or make sure I’ve got absolutely bomber.

The following note on the Petzl page, implies to me under the above usage it is absolutely fine.

“For use below the anchor point: the positioning device does not have an energy absorber. This positioning device must only be used when the potential fall factor is less than 1.”

 

[MarkS]

My understanding, and from (admittedly limited) playing with it, that it doesn’t adjust under any sort of load.

I find it's relatively straightforward to shorten it under slight load, which is when I tend to use it. If fully weighted then yes - it would probably be very difficult. I suppose it will be very dependent on rope diameter too.

 

[ChrisB]

I have the Connect Adjust, the single variable one with no short end, and find it very useful when rigging. I can clip a bolt which would be out of reach of my cowstails and then tighten the adjustment as I swing towards it, which is much easier than swinging and trying to clip the bolt. Maybe when I have more rigging experience I could do without it. So far I've been putting it directly on my harness D as a third cowstail, but as mentioned by others, it does tend to catch on crawls, so I'm thinking I may attach it with a locking krab so I can remove and bag it when I'm not rigging.

The Evolv Adjust looks like a double version of the Connect Adjust. For both, Petzl say they should only be used below an anchor, but rather puzzlingly, they also state specifically that the Evolv is not PPE while the Connect is PPE.

Their website lists the Evolv Adjust under 'Accessories' and suggest in the detail that it's useful for aid climbing, while the Connect Adjust is listed under climbing and mountaineering. Neither is listed as caving gear!

 

[JoshW]

, it does tend to catch on crawls

Try the slip knot and clip in technique, keeps everything out the way nicely

 

[mikem]

Their website lists the Evolv Adjust under 'Accessories' and suggest in the detail that it's useful for aid climbing, while the Connect Adjust is listed under climbing and mountaineering. Neither is listed as caving gear!

that just means one has been tested as such, whilst other may not have been. Cowstails don't absorb much load, that is far more reliant on the rope above you

 

[andrewmcleod]

that just means one has been tested as such, whilst other may not have been. Cowstails don't absorb much load, that is far more reliant on the rope above you

TLDR: people can choose to use the Evolv Adjust as a pair of cowstails if they understand the risks, but they should be aware that it is not designed for this use and the rope used is too weak for it to be rated for such use.

From the Petzl instructions:

"
1. Field of application
Adjustable positioning device for aid climbing.
Warning: the EVOLV ADJUST positioning device is not PPE. It is neither an adjustable lanyard (EN 358 standard), nor an energy absorber for self-belayed progression on a via ferrata (EN 958 standard), nor a lanyard for work at height (EN 354 standard).
Be sure to use a belay system made up of personal protective equipment (PPE) when engaged in activities at height.
This product must not be pushed beyond its limits, nor be used for any purpose other than that for which it is designed.
"
Note that all diagrams showing practical use of the Evolv Adjust include a separate belay system.

Also: "7. Precautions for use. Do not fall on your EVOLV ADJUST."

I assume it uses the same metal adjusters as the Connect Adjust, but it does not use the same rope. I believe that, if it _was_ tested as PPE under an appropriate standard, it would fail because the rope (actually accessory cord) will not meet the required strength.

That said, I suspect it is unlikely to fail under any realistic load... I personally wouldn't want 8mm cowstails, but I also wouldn't suggest it was totally unreasonable for the informed caver to make their own decision about. It is also (assuming the metal adjusters really are the same) a cheap way of getting two, rather than one, of the metal adjusters. You could always replace the 8mm with 9mm rope to make a more conventional pair of cowstails.

 

[JoshW]

it would fail because the rope (actually accessory cord) will not meet the required strength.

The rope in an evolv adjust is petzl paso half rope not a cord by the way.

If it’s rated for big whippers on half roping, it sure as hell can handle me hanging off it most the time

 

[cap n chris]

7mm Petzl Paso is fabulous! I use it a lot for general/Class L rope techniques. I know people who don't like it, though, as it's a "bit slippy".

 

[andrewmcleod]

The rope in an evolv adjust is petzl paso half rope not a cord by the way.

If it’s rated for big whippers on half roping, it sure as hell can handle me hanging off it most the time

ah, you are correct (although 7.7mm is pretty skinny even for a half rope ) Good to know exactly what it is. It is rated for 7 'half rope' falls (fall factor 1.77 but only a 55kg mass), so will take at least 1 and possibly 2 FF2 falls with a 80kg test mass (at least that's the usual assumption for half ropes).

 

[Babyhagrid]

ah, you are correct (although 7.7mm is pretty skinny even for a half rope ) Good to know exactly what it is. It is rated for 7 'half rope' falls (fall factor 1.77 but only a 55kg mass), so will take at least 1 and possibly 2 FF2 falls with a 80kg test mass (at least that's the usual assumption for half ropes).

Slightly scary to learn that they use an 80KG mass to test things. I'm probably 150% + of this when carrying a bag with a drill.

 

[ChrisB]

Having established that the rope in the Evolv Adjust is 7.7mm half rope and is rated as PPE, I was still puzzled why the Evolv is not PPE and the Connect Adjust is PPE. I've just measured the rope on my Connect Adjust and it's 10mm, which I guess solves it.