Are you considering Type A and B? If money were no object I would buy the Type A 9mm.
Hi OS, if you're buying rope for the first time you need to be aware that when it gets wet and dries out, it can shrink by a fair amount.If you soak it and allow it to dry it may shrink by anything up to 5 or 6%, but it will continue to shrink with use.I've just checked some data on our ropes, and the maximum shrinkage I seem to have recorded is 13/2% – so you'll need to allow for this when cutting it to what you think are appropriate lenghths.
I also like to run new rope through a descender as it seems to squeeze a lot of the manufacturing lube (???) out of the rope and can make it a "little" less speedy on descent. I usually then soak it again, dry it and then measure / cut.
Quote from: MJenkinson on February 22, 2019, 10:08:36 amI also like to run new rope through a descender as it seems to squeeze a lot of the manufacturing lube (???) out of the rope and can make it a "little" less speedy on descent. I usually then soak it again, dry it and then measure / cut.So the work method would be- Soak the rope- Pull the WET rope through a descender - Soak again- Let it dry- Measure / cut / label the robe- ... go caving ....I think I'm going to take over the pull through descender step the next time a new roll comes in.
The silicon you are trying to get rid of in a rope takes many many rinses to get rid of if you are wanting non-milky water to come out of the rope.
I wouldn't want Class A 9mm rope - to make it class A it has to withstand more force in a drop test so it is likely to have more core and less sheath, while I want more sheath for abrasion and the rope is plenty strong enough.
I would suggest that a statistically significant result can't be found from 1 test.
Different ropes will vary, but there will always be a sheath/core compromise. It may be there is actually little variation in static ropes though; I don't know.
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