TECHNICAL FORUMS > Film & Photography

Lightroom Classic help please

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Judi Durber:
I have Lightroom Classic, very much still a novice, I cannot find a tutorial to show me how to reduce the bight blob of my headlight and the large patch of white on the wall.

Can anyone help please?

I don't use Lightroom, but do use Photoshop, and no doubt there's a similar control in Lightroom for Shadows and Highlights. You should be able to bring the highlights down independently of anything else using that tool, but bear in mind that completely over-exposed areas will stay white, no matter what - or an ugly light grey if you turn it down enough. Controlling exposure underground is very difficult, but it's often better to underexpose slightly in order to have a bit of leeway with highlights, so you make them brighter, which is much better.

Also try and shoot in RAW if your camera allows it, as it has greater fidelity in terms of brightness (it's 12-bit instead of 8-bit), and can often salvage an image that would fail in a normal format.

Judi Durber:

They have been shot in RAW & then use 'Auto' & a bit of 'dehaze'.

I thought you could isolate that bit & then alter the various buttons just for that part of the photo?

the control you're looking for is probably curves.

This controls the exposure of the photo at various levels of existing exposure, if you were to tone down the highlights (by lowering the top end of the curve), and bump up the shadows (by raising the lower end of the curve) you will reduce the contrast, and reduce the overbearing look of the bright white spot of the headlight/ it's reflection off the rock.

There's loads of videos out there about how to use curves, and it's a really useful control to be used. Shooting in RAW means you'll still have at least some detail within the highlights.

I know lightroom on iOS has localised adjustments, where you can apply tonal adjustments on an overlaid shape, but not sure if lightroom classic has this.

Hey Judi,

You can select a brush tool in lightroom to mask just the blown areas, but as has already been mentioned only so much can be done with the dynamic range, and blown highlights are the hardest thing to recover.

Shooting raw certainly gives you a better chance to correct during the edit, but there are still limitations to what you can do with under and over exposed areas of the photo.

I'm guessing these are taken using a continuous light source? If so the camera will be pushing the iso to its limit and this will also limit what you can do in post production.

Sent from my SM-A715F using Tapatalk


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