Author Topic: Jingling Pot Little Gully Route  (Read 368 times)

Offline Caveman Ken

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Jingling Pot Little Gully Route
« on: October 15, 2021, 06:33:37 am »
Anyone know this route well?
Jingling Pot, Little Gully Route.
I was down there yesterday, trying this route. Once we were at the lip of the main shaft there was a bolt on the right wall (where the traverse to Lateral Cleft starts). Then another one on the left in the roof of a small bedding plane. I used these to rig the rope. I spotted another bolt further back in the bedding plane but decided not to use it as I was trying to get a free hang down the shaft. Down I went, after about 10/15m two problems became evident:
1) The rope above me was rubbing on the rock.
2) I could see a re-belay bolt to my left but it was well out of reach. To get it I would need to pendulum. Yikes!
So my question is: Is this how you do it, with a pendulum?
Or did I miss something? I looked around and down and couldn't see any other bolts.
Thinking I was in the wrong place I came back up and explored along the traverse but there appeared to be no where else to hang the rope other than to continue on the Lateral Cleft route.

Offline andrewmc

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Re: Jingling Pot Little Gully Route
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2021, 08:07:31 am »
So...

Firstly, yes - it is a pendulum to get to the rebelay - which is of course not something you want to do if you are getting rope rub!

After the drop down the gully, there are two shared P-bolts that both the Little Gully route and the Lateral Cleft route use. I can't remember where the first bolt is, but the second bolt is the one you described as 'further back in the bedding plane'. If you are going to Lateral Cleft, having used these two bolts you then go to the high bolt on the right-hand wall. However, the Little Gully route should then be rigged off the P-bolt way out over the edge in the route of the bedding plane, which you used, and _not_ anything on the right-hand wall. Furthermore, this needs to be either directly off this anchor or almost directly off this anchor to avoid rope rub lower down, and not (as shown on the topo) a Y-hang.
I might still use a double-loop knot to rig this, but one biased almost entirely to the further-out anchor.

I have attached the new and old topos for comparison; neither of them really shows how you have to bias the drop to avoid rope rub but the new topo shows the rigging from the 'wrong' anchors.

Offline andrewmc

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Re: Jingling Pot Little Gully Route
« Reply #2 on: October 15, 2021, 08:13:28 am »
Green route is Little Gully, purple route is Lateral Cleft (ignore the fact that the green line is drawn on top of the purple, of course if you were looking from this angle the purple rope, as it is crossing to the right-hand wall, should be in _front_ of the green rope which is dropping away to the left, looking down...).

And I've shown an extremely heavily biased Y-hang (with all the load on the far-out bolt); just as easy and almost as safe to just rig the drop straight off the last bolt.

Offline Caveman Ken

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Re: Jingling Pot Little Gully Route
« Reply #3 on: October 15, 2021, 10:10:36 am »
Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. Nice to know I wasn't missing something.

 

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